Let's Talk Electric Cutouts and Suspension
03-27-2013, 01:07 PM
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Let's Talk Electric Cutouts and Suspension Hey guys,
Have a 97 A4 LT1. Pacesetter LT's into a Pacesetter 3in Y-pipe into a custom turndown. Also have STB and full SFC's and a CAI. I am kinda stuck with what I want to do next. I have some suspension parts in mind and have some other stuff in mind.
1.) One of my "wants" would be dual electric cutouts on my car and to finish off my exhaust. I was thinking of getting the Quick Time Pro full kit for $439.00 OR Doug's Exhaust electric cutouts full stainless steel for $479.00 both were on JEGS. These kits come with all the hardware and the tubing needed to extend the y-pipe, these would be bolted onto the extension pipe provided. Now my thinking was to add the pipe extensions to where the y-pipe collector tubes bend inward to connect into one. I would either face the tube with cutout towards the center of the car of flip it around and face it towards outward, which do you guys suggest and why? I would have to have these installed since I don't have a tube cutter (the extension pipes slip over the 3in y-pipe and are connected with a 3in stainless steel band clamp.
2.) UMI Part #201829 (1982 - 2002 GM F-Body On-Car Adjustable Lower Control Arm & Panhard Bar Kit). Single adjustable each way on PHB and LCA, both ends are poly composition material. Is this kit something that would be good or should I get one with the teflone ends or with the roto-joints?
Use of the car - street driving, some street pulls and fun here and there and possibly strip once in a while.
Devin
Have a 97 A4 LT1. Pacesetter LT's into a Pacesetter 3in Y-pipe into a custom turndown. Also have STB and full SFC's and a CAI. I am kinda stuck with what I want to do next. I have some suspension parts in mind and have some other stuff in mind.
1.) One of my "wants" would be dual electric cutouts on my car and to finish off my exhaust. I was thinking of getting the Quick Time Pro full kit for $439.00 OR Doug's Exhaust electric cutouts full stainless steel for $479.00 both were on JEGS. These kits come with all the hardware and the tubing needed to extend the y-pipe, these would be bolted onto the extension pipe provided. Now my thinking was to add the pipe extensions to where the y-pipe collector tubes bend inward to connect into one. I would either face the tube with cutout towards the center of the car of flip it around and face it towards outward, which do you guys suggest and why? I would have to have these installed since I don't have a tube cutter (the extension pipes slip over the 3in y-pipe and are connected with a 3in stainless steel band clamp.
2.) UMI Part #201829 (1982 - 2002 GM F-Body On-Car Adjustable Lower Control Arm & Panhard Bar Kit). Single adjustable each way on PHB and LCA, both ends are poly composition material. Is this kit something that would be good or should I get one with the teflone ends or with the roto-joints?
Use of the car - street driving, some street pulls and fun here and there and possibly strip once in a while.
Devin
03-27-2013, 03:56 PM
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I ran dual e-cutouts after the LT collectors for a while. I kept bumping them on high spots and speed bumps, which occasionally required sending the e-cutouts back for maintience work. In the end, I ditched the setup for true duals and I didn't look back. There was only a couple HP difference between the true duals and open cutouts. IMO, spend the cutout money on that instead.
03-27-2013, 06:46 PM
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i ran a single cutout right after the y-pipe, didnt use the turndown cause with it i had no clearance. makes the car unbearably loud for the street imo. rattles the whole interior of the car its so loud LOL.... mine doesnt get opened much anymore
03-27-2013, 06:50 PM
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Don't get your reason to say untrue stuff. I also put suspension parts in the original post for a reason. This would be no different then a 360hp lt1 or ls1 running an SLP LM or open headers. Same exact thing only difference between me and them is a can upgrade. Thanks for bashing tho and not giving respectful feedback. Ill stick with my original approach full suspension first then move on.
03-27-2013, 06:51 PM
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Don't get your reason to say untrue stuff. I also put suspension parts in the original post for a reason. This would be no different then a 360hp lt1 or ls1 running an SLP LM or open headers. Same exact thing only difference between me and them is a can upgrade. Thanks for bashing tho and not giving respectful feedback. Ill stick with my original approach full suspension first then move on.
03-27-2013, 06:52 PM
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I tend to agree I ran open headers for a week or two just for fun and I think my whole interior started falling apart lol. Maybe I could just get one electric finish off the exhaust and just have that one electric be like my turndown if I wanted. Never thought of tr clearance issues like states above. Thanks for your input.
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03-27-2013, 09:12 PM
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Heck I ran with open headers for about two months then added the y-pipe. I ran that for about a year, then i put the borla on and WOW it's amazing how much more sex i get when the wife doesn't have a headache. just my .02
03-27-2013, 09:24 PM
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I put a single cut-out right before the I pipe goes up over the axle. Non-electric, I only plan on opening it at the track. I have once just to see how loud it was and probably will again just to see the difference on the dyno. I've never run open headers because I like most of my neighbors and I just hate pointlessly loud exhaust. =D
Also don't forget to get some relocation brackets for those LCAs!
Also don't forget to get some relocation brackets for those LCAs!
03-28-2013, 11:19 AM
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I put a single cut-out right before the I pipe goes up over the axle. Non-electric, I only plan on opening it at the track. I have once just to see how loud it was and probably will again just to see the difference on the dyno. I've never run open headers because I like most of my neighbors and I just hate pointlessly loud exhaust. =D
Also don't forget to get some relocation brackets for those LCAs!
Also don't forget to get some relocation brackets for those LCAs!
Devin. Thanks for the inputs thus far.
03-28-2013, 08:15 PM
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Comes with all the necessary hardware. I got the bolt in relo. brackets because I figured when I get a better rear end I can unbolt them and put them on the new one, or if it comes with them already then I can just sell the old ones. IIRC the weld in brackets are more thick in some areas but I might be wrong.
03-28-2013, 08:18 PM
#14
Comes with all the necessary hardware. I got the bolt in relo. brackets because I figured when I get a better rear end I can unbolt them and put them on the new one, or if it comes with them already then I can just sell the old ones. IIRC the weld in brackets are more thick in some areas but I might be wrong.
