Best Mild Cam?
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
That's hard to say because everyone's opinion is different to what is mild. To me for a street driven LT1 the CC305 is a great choice. I had the 304 and it was an improvement over stock but did not meet my wants in power. I just put in CC306 to match the AFR heads better. The CC305 in a stock LT1 has great power. I would also get a tune and up grade the valve train. IE springs, roller rockers, push rods. This is just my .02
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Brett Foote
Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Ok, mild. U want mild? Try the LT4 "stock" cam - more lift, more duration, tighter lobe separation. But u will need to replace the vlv springs. The stock vlv springs aren't strong enough to handle the LT1 cam at high RPM. But LT4 vlv springs are cheap too.
Good luck,
cardo
Good luck,
cardo
Lt4 330hp cam is hardly worth the swap.
1996 Y-body, 1996-1997 F-body: 200/207 0.447/0.459 lift 117 LSA. 1 1996 Y-body, F-body LT4: 203/210 0.476/0.479 lift 115 LSA
1996 Y-body, 1996-1997 F-body: 200/207 0.447/0.459 lift 117 LSA. 1 1996 Y-body, F-body LT4: 203/210 0.476/0.479 lift 115 LSA
Last edited by 96lt1m6; Apr 4, 2013 at 05:24 AM.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
330hp would be very optimistic with LT1 heads. Ah but the stock LT1 is only 275hp so 330hp is 55 more hp and would be a 20% pwr increase. Yes anyone would feel that difference. Not many "mild" cams can claim 55hp increase over stock. But lets be realistic with using LT1 heads instead of the LT4 heads the gain would be much less. And again the vlv springs would have to be changed for any real improvements. But i would take a 55hp increase anyday.
BTW i have to drive to Las Vegas now just to drag race since Cal Speedway closed. Its plenty fun to race there but my car is slow as heck in that 100*F heat and i always seem to break something at the track too. Wish i could make the Summit Nationals this weekend. Maybe see u there some time 96.
cardo0
Ah but the stock LT1 is only 275hp so 330hp is 55 more hp and would be a 20% pwr increase. Yes anyone would feel that difference. Not many "mild" cams can claim 55hp increase over stock. But lets be realistic with using LT1 heads instead of the LT4 heads the gain would be much less. And again the vlv springs would have to be changed for any real improvements. But i would take a 55hp increase anyday..
cardo0
cardo0
ok, well should i or shouldn't i buy the cc 503 cam? I understand changing the valve springs is something i should do as well. so the 503 cam or the LT4 cam? Let me know before i pull the trigger on buying these parts! Im enjoying the input, im learning a lot plus the research i am doing. . . . .
That dependa on your goals with your car. The 503 will make more power and is gona wana be turned to around 6200. If your auto your gona need 3k stall and atleast 3.42 gears. The hot cam is would be a great cam for a dd. You could probly get away with stock stall and gears. Both cams gona need springs, 1.6rr, tune, hardend pushrods, new timing chain, and proper supporting mods.
Any quality 1.6 will do, crane has some nice ones, I run Scorpian aluminum 1.6 rr's though some will say they're no good I had zero issues. If you decide to run NSA as opposed to SA rockers you will need guide plates and hardened/chromemoly pushrods. As far as springs I ran the crane spring kit 10308-1 with my cc503 and have them on my current motor. Includes everything you need to install it without having to piece together your own. Though with a dual coil spring you will want to run smaller style valve seals since the mushroom style will have issues fitting IIRC.
Is cam install worth on stock engine? I mean without headers, cai, catback, etc bolt-ons. And if i put 1.6rr's do i have to change the valve springs too? i've also read, that i will have to change my value cover, is it right? And the most hard question for those living in East Europe and Russia- do i have to make the tune? Or i can buy the chip, i mean i'm not sure that i can properly tune it in Moscow.