bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

OP, I wish you good luck with your decision, and keep us updated. I would hate to see it fail on you and destroy your motor, but if it does be sure to post about it to warn others in the future.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

i will be sure to do that but hopefully it wont happen. i got my BBK 58mm throttle body, hurst short shifter and BMR adjustable LCAs last week and while swapping the reusable parts from the old TB to the new one, i dropped a screw through the hole for the fuel injector and had to take the intake mani back off to fish it out with a magnet. while torquing it back down i stripped one of the threads in the head FML. so i have to get an ultrasert kit to fix it. hopefully will get that this week, still waiting on viking front coilovers, BMR adj panhard bar and adj upper and lower a arms should be here tomorrow.

BBK 58mm TB

short shifter


Also i have stainless ARP intake mani bolts going into the aluminum heads, is there any lubricants or loctite that i should or shouldnt use for them since its steel going into aluminum and that isnt always the best combo? thanks

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I dont know if you caught this thread yet...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ine-build.html

His very low hp street motor only made it 10k miles....

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

My motor's in pieces right now since my eagle cast crank decided to snap

Luckily it looks like nothing else was hurt

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

after a lot of thought and more research and talking to some people here on the tech i have decided to go ahead with my build and run the motor the way it is. golen has a 3 year warranty on the motor so if anything breaks, he will replace/fix it free of charge.

i got a few more parts in this week: my viking front coilovers, bmr adj panhard bar, lower and upper a arms. i have decided to go with a new k-member since i have tried to remove the bolts from the bushings in the factory lower a arms with a torch, sawzall and brute force and nothing has worked. plus the k-member is fairly rusty and would take a lot of work to get it where i want it.

coil overs


also plasti dipped the berger panel, really happy how it came out, no pics of it and the lights on the car yet though i did reinstall them.
here is a teaser

tonka

iTrader: (20)

I had a 92 z28 with a 434 and supercharged and it ran fantastic I sold that one and bought a ls 408 on a D1 procharger a very powerful setup for sure

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

ok so an update is long overdue on the project, i have been working on it a lot more in the past month or so and the motor is almost ready to be put back into the car. i have the front suspension assembled and the motor and trans are bolted up as well. i have a few more things to do before i instal it in the car, i was hoping to have everything installed and hooked up this weekend with the first start next week sometime, but i ran into a problem with my steering rack last night when i was trying to instal it on the k-member, the mounts on the k-member dont line up with the mounts on the rack. it is the stock rack and the k-member has mounts for the stock rack, i emailed BMR last night to see what they had to say, but havent heard anything back yet. has anyone experienced this with a tubular k-member?
anyways here are some pics of my progress

k-member and suspension put together:


motor installed:


trans bolted up:


here are some pics of the interference i am having with the stock rack and the k-member:



as you can see, the bellows are hitting the k-member and not allowing the bolt holes to line up. i was thinking about elongating the holes, would that be ok to do? im hoping BMR will get back to me today about this

F0x Slaughter

For the above post.

Did you make sure you ordered the K Member for a stock rack?


Second I just skimmed this, why on earth would you spend all this money to shoot for 500 at the wheels with a turbo setup?

You can do that NA.

HellTeeOne

It's not all that easy and the boosted setup will have far better street manners. Plus, a 500rwhp NA LT1 is likely not any cheaper to build than a budget boosted setup. That's likely why 500rwhp NA with a HR cam has only been done a small handful of times, a boosted setup making the same or more power can be built for the same money.

I can echo some of the other members' concerns about Golen and the cast aftermarket crank. It may not seem like it, but no one is trying to be offensive or crass here, just telling it like it is. I hope the OP's build ends up being one of the problem-free ones.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=F0x Slaughter;17679636]For the above post.

Did you make sure you ordered the K Member for a stock rack?QUOTE]

yes i did, i have crossed the part numbers and it is the LT1 k-member with the standard rack mounts as i ordered it. i still havent heard back from BMR which is dissapointing.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

if i go FI on this motor it will be supercharged(most likely procharger), if i were to go turbo i would want to do a lsx swap. but i am still not sure if i will go FI on this motor, i am definately not going to for a year or two since this my first car that is above 300hp, and i dont want to kill my self yet . i want to get used to 400-450hp manners this car will have before i go to 500+ with boost.

i also understand everyone is concerned and to a point so am i, but he backs his work and i think if i get a good tune and everything is happy it will last and if it doesnt he has a 3 year warrenty on his motors. i am also keeping the stock block just incase.

brettmc

if you search carefully you can find some new, second-hand LT1 procharger kits. I found a a couple before ultimately deciding on going turbo. there was a guy in CA that said he still had his NIB D1 LT1 set up 2 yrs after posting up a for sale ad...

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

yea i have seen a couple in the classifieds here for around 2-3k which isnt bad but not something i am going to invest in right now, maybe in a year or so

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

small update, i ended up getting the steering rack installed and got all the accessories installed as well as new spark plugs and installed my pacesetter LTs. only thing i have left to do before i can put the car back together is figure how to swap the oil cooler from the stock block to the new one. anyone have any tips on how to do this?
anyways onto the pics:

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

got the motor in over the weekend! lifted the nose of the car and rolled it under and lowered it back down on top if it. i got the radiator installed and hooked up, driveshaft in, front swaybar installed and adjustable panhard bar. i still have to put the front brake lines back in and hook up the wireing harness, install the starter, battery, new tick master cylinder, y-pipe, cutout and catback and some other small stuff.

i still need to get 02 sensors, bigger injectors (30 or 42lbers), rear swaybar axle mounts and all the fluids to start it. i want to get BMR rear lowering springs (since i have viking coilovers in the front) and koni rear shocks.

here are some pics:

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Looks good, but get a new camera!

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

thanks! its my phone camera which isnt that great, i will take better pics when its out of my barn and driving, just kinda taking them as i go lol

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Man this is Great! The only thing that makes it better is a beer in one hand and popcorn in the other!

baylove

iTrader: (35)

Any updates on this build

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

havent really gotten a chance to work on it lately....too many other projects, but i am hoping to get back at it in the next couple of weeks. my goal is to have it running and driving for when the snow melts, which is usually in april.