Zero oil pressure out of nowhere *PICS*
06-05-2013, 03:02 PM
#1
Zero oil pressure out of nowhere *PICS* Sorry for the long explanation, but im trying to be thorough.
I had my car out for a cruise night a few weeks ago and after cruising for about 2 hours I saw my "check guages" light come on. I looked over and saw my oil pressure was bouncing off of zero. I quickly pulled off the road and shut it off to check things over. My Oil Level sensor in the pan was disconnected, so thinking that may have something to do with it, I plugged it back in and started it. Still zero oil pressue at all but sounded fine
. Shut it off called a guy I know and he said look in the valve cover for oil splashing around. I did that and didn't see any oil moving around, but it still sounded fine, so I shut it off. Did that once more with same results. Then I was going to start it to look for oil moving around one more time and this time when I started it, it sounded like it didn't have an aftermarket cam 
, and my girlfriend immediately looked over and shook her head like "that doesn't sound right".
After that I towed it home and haven't touched it since im a little butthurt about it. Keep in mind this is not a clapped out pos that isn't taken care of, but I do have fun with it. Another thing I will mention is that I just changed the oil 2 days prior to this happening with a WIX filter. The filter had a dent in the side of it, but it wasn't crushed or anything so I figured it would be fine and I popped the dent out and installed it. Does anyone think that could be my problem? If not, where should I start with this?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
I had my car out for a cruise night a few weeks ago and after cruising for about 2 hours I saw my "check guages" light come on. I looked over and saw my oil pressure was bouncing off of zero. I quickly pulled off the road and shut it off to check things over. My Oil Level sensor in the pan was disconnected, so thinking that may have something to do with it, I plugged it back in and started it. Still zero oil pressue at all but sounded fine
. Shut it off called a guy I know and he said look in the valve cover for oil splashing around. I did that and didn't see any oil moving around, but it still sounded fine, so I shut it off. Did that once more with same results. Then I was going to start it to look for oil moving around one more time and this time when I started it, it sounded like it didn't have an aftermarket cam , and my girlfriend immediately looked over and shook her head like "that doesn't sound right".After that I towed it home and haven't touched it since im a little butthurt about it. Keep in mind this is not a clapped out pos that isn't taken care of, but I do have fun with it. Another thing I will mention is that I just changed the oil 2 days prior to this happening with a WIX filter. The filter had a dent in the side of it, but it wasn't crushed or anything so I figured it would be fine and I popped the dent out and installed it. Does anyone think that could be my problem? If not, where should I start with this?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by 93BlackZ28; 06-15-2013 at 03:22 PM.
06-05-2013, 04:35 PM
#4
At this point, if you didn't hear the lifters clattering, while the car was running, you probably have some oil pressure. My first suspicion would be a bad OP gauge sending unit. You might want to try tapping a mechanical gauge in place, and give the car a short start up.....and also, I'd try another oil filter.
06-05-2013, 05:18 PM
#6
Also the oil pump drive gear top is plastic and if over TQ on re-install from cam swap it to can break...
This may have nothing to do with your loss of oil pressure, just tossing it out there as those 2 items, if failed, will stop oil circulation.
I ask because you sig says a LE cam so assume those parts have been taken off/put back on
as suggested confirm your oil pressure gauge is working correctly. Also you won't really see any oil "splashing" around in the valve covers. It does get pumped up through the push rods and does come out and into the top of the head but not what I would call 'splashing" around. If you see nothing coming up than you have issues with your oil pump, oil pump pick up, oil pump drive shaft or oil pump drive gear
if you drain your oil carefully look for any signs of debree...like plastic pieces. If you see metal flakes...you have a bigger problem requireing the motor being torn down (at least looking at bearings)
WIX is a good filter....I look inside the box when I get filters. 3 reasons. to see if it is fact the right #. 2nd to see if it has dents (don't get it) and 3rd...did someone put their used filter in the box and walk with the new one (yeah saw this when getting filters before at walMart, fing nuts what some people will do)
Hopefully it is just a bad gauge or sending unit to it
06-05-2013, 05:37 PM
#7
the reason I ask is because the oil pump drive shaft sleeve (stock) can break since it is made of plastic especially once it is taken out during a cam swap. Many replace the oil pump drive shaft with ones from ARP, etc. which have a steel sleeve when doing a cam swap.
Don't you have to drop the pan to change the oil pump drive shaft?
Also the oil pump drive gear top is plastic and if over TQ on re-install from cam swap it to can break...
I torqued everything back to spec.
This may have nothing to do with your loss of oil pressure, just tossing it out there as those 2 items, if failed, will stop oil circulation.
I ask because you sig says a LE cam so assume those parts have been taken off/put back on
It does have a LE cam.
as suggested confirm your oil pressure gauge is working correctly. Also you won't really see any oil "splashing" around in the valve covers. It does get pumped up through the push rods and does come out and into the top of the head but not what I would call 'splashing" around. If you see nothing coming up than you have issues with your oil pump, oil pump pick up, oil pump drive shaft or oil pump drive gear
Yeah I ran the car with no valve covers on after the cam swap and it never really splashed around and that is normal from what I gathered. I've also put about 10k miles on the car since I put the cam in.
if you drain your oil carefully look for any signs of debree...like plastic pieces. If you see metal flakes...you have a bigger problem requireing the motor being torn down (at least looking at bearings)
I just took the old filter I just replaced before it broke apart a little while ago and it looked good. Still havn't drained the oil or looked at the new filter.
WIX is a good filter....I look inside the box when I get filters. 3 reasons. to see if it is fact the right #. 2nd to see if it has dents (don't get it) and 3rd...did someone put their used filter in the box and walk with the new one (yeah saw this when getting filters before at walMart, fing nuts what some people will do)
I will always do that from now on.
Hopefully it is just a bad gauge or sending unit to it
Don't you have to drop the pan to change the oil pump drive shaft?
Also the oil pump drive gear top is plastic and if over TQ on re-install from cam swap it to can break...
I torqued everything back to spec.
This may have nothing to do with your loss of oil pressure, just tossing it out there as those 2 items, if failed, will stop oil circulation.
I ask because you sig says a LE cam so assume those parts have been taken off/put back on
It does have a LE cam.
as suggested confirm your oil pressure gauge is working correctly. Also you won't really see any oil "splashing" around in the valve covers. It does get pumped up through the push rods and does come out and into the top of the head but not what I would call 'splashing" around. If you see nothing coming up than you have issues with your oil pump, oil pump pick up, oil pump drive shaft or oil pump drive gear
Yeah I ran the car with no valve covers on after the cam swap and it never really splashed around and that is normal from what I gathered. I've also put about 10k miles on the car since I put the cam in.
if you drain your oil carefully look for any signs of debree...like plastic pieces. If you see metal flakes...you have a bigger problem requireing the motor being torn down (at least looking at bearings)
I just took the old filter I just replaced before it broke apart a little while ago and it looked good. Still havn't drained the oil or looked at the new filter.
WIX is a good filter....I look inside the box when I get filters. 3 reasons. to see if it is fact the right #. 2nd to see if it has dents (don't get it) and 3rd...did someone put their used filter in the box and walk with the new one (yeah saw this when getting filters before at walMart, fing nuts what some people will do)
I will always do that from now on.
Hopefully it is just a bad gauge or sending unit to it
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06-05-2013, 05:54 PM
#9
Guaranteed either the oil pump drive gear has stripped or the plastic bracket that holds it down has broken. It is very common (and easy) to overtighten the bracket and crack it. Since it's covered in oil a crack is not easy to see unless you're looking for it.
It does NOT sound like the sending unit is bad being that you have some mechanical noise associated with it. Do yourself a favor and don't run the engine any more until you can pull off the intake manifold and take a look at the drive gear.
It does NOT sound like the sending unit is bad being that you have some mechanical noise associated with it. Do yourself a favor and don't run the engine any more until you can pull off the intake manifold and take a look at the drive gear.
06-05-2013, 06:19 PM
#11
My money is on oilpump drive cracked or gear is stripped and now you have probably wiped your bearings, time to pull the engine for a rebuild. Herron Performance used to sell a billet oilpump drive assembly but I don't know if they do anymore it looked like the pic here of the one I just sold.
06-06-2013, 07:07 AM
#13
I'm with the drive gear as well.
OP My drive gear was perfect at 135k miles when I did a hotcam swap. after a few thousand miles it was probably about another 5k from being worn out.
The stocker is on the right compared to the new hardened unit from Cam Motion.
OP My drive gear was perfect at 135k miles when I did a hotcam swap. after a few thousand miles it was probably about another 5k from being worn out.
The stocker is on the right compared to the new hardened unit from Cam Motion.
06-06-2013, 08:39 AM
#15
Do people have problems with the Cam Motion gears? Anyone have a link? Cause I can't find them on their website.
06-06-2013, 09:45 AM
#16
For myself, this is what I found during my current build. BUt everyone else that I've ever read about or talked to just changed it out, changed oil/filter and went on.
As for Cam Motions gear, you have to call them and tell them it's for an LT1. Shaft size is different than SBC. It's about $72 and they "Get you through the drive-thru" on shipping. They hit me for $17 shipping. Fed-ex
As for Cam Motions gear, you have to call them and tell them it's for an LT1. Shaft size is different than SBC. It's about $72 and they "Get you through the drive-thru" on shipping. They hit me for $17 shipping. Fed-ex
06-06-2013, 09:53 AM
#17
For myself, this is what I found during my current build. BUt everyone else that I've ever read about or talked to just changed it out, changed oil/filter and went on.
As for Cam Motions gear, you have to call them and tell them it's for an LT1. Shaft size is different than SBC. It's about $72 and they "Get you through the drive-thru" on shipping. They hit me for $17 shipping. Fed-ex
As for Cam Motions gear, you have to call them and tell them it's for an LT1. Shaft size is different than SBC. It's about $72 and they "Get you through the drive-thru" on shipping. They hit me for $17 shipping. Fed-ex
06-06-2013, 09:54 AM
#18
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New GM oil pump drives (p/n 1103868) come with a Melonized gear. It's too late now but when installing a new cam, a new drive should go in with it so the gears can break-in together. Crane Cams has a service tip on their web site about filing a .030 notch in the lower land on the drive stub (or distributor on gen 1 sbc) in the area directly above where the drive gear starts to mesh with the cam gear to provide pressurized oil from the lifter galley to lube the gears.
I was also paranoid about oil pump gear wear so I put a magnetic drain plug in the oil pan to collect any metal that the engine starts making. The best mag plug by far I found is from this guy on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Oil-Drain-Plug-Firebird-Trams-Am-350-LT1-5-7L-/310086170389?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4832937715&vxp=mtrIt's possible to pull the drain plug, swapping it with the stock one quickly without draining the oil. I do this every 1k miles to check for my oil pump drive starting to wear.
I was also paranoid about oil pump gear wear so I put a magnetic drain plug in the oil pan to collect any metal that the engine starts making. The best mag plug by far I found is from this guy on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Oil-Drain-Plug-Firebird-Trams-Am-350-LT1-5-7L-/310086170389?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4832937715&vxp=mtrIt's possible to pull the drain plug, swapping it with the stock one quickly without draining the oil. I do this every 1k miles to check for my oil pump drive starting to wear.
06-06-2013, 10:33 AM
#19
^^^...OP you need to pull your intake to check the gear to see if the plastic part on top broke or the gear wore/stripped.
the pic below is what I just did a few weeks ago replacing my intake gaskets.
glad i took the time to look at the gear. the gear itself was fine but plastic part cracked. the gear shown has 115k mi and has been in motor with 3 diffrent cams
the drive lists for around $80, shop around
the pic below is what I just did a few weeks ago replacing my intake gaskets.
glad i took the time to look at the gear. the gear itself was fine but plastic part cracked. the gear shown has 115k mi and has been in motor with 3 diffrent cams
the drive lists for around $80, shop around
06-06-2013, 11:43 AM
#20
The problem with only changing the oil and filter is that by driving, starting the engine once it lost oil pressure the trash has already circulated throughout the engine and most likely trashed all of the bearings and maybe some cam lobes as well. I would pull the engine and check everything, bearings, crank, cam and lifters.