LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Couple Hotcam Questions

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Old 12-13-2013, 12:37 PM
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6300 is totally safe. I would say if you have full roller rockers, but tony (camaroracing12) has been doing it for years and got into the 11s on the entire stock valvetrain at 6300.
Old 12-14-2013, 09:30 AM
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So for gaskets I have:
TCS45956 -----Timing cover set
MS95580 ----- Intake manifold

Am I missing anything?
Old 12-14-2013, 12:32 PM
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get the 1284 "printo" ffel pro gasket for intake

you doing a cam swap, right?

if so you will also need a new pan gasket unless you don't rip the old one and can clean off the rtv to re-use.

many also replace the oil pump drive shaft with a metel one from ARP,
Old 12-14-2013, 01:09 PM
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Change the valve guide seals when you change the valve springs. Fel Pro p/n SS72861. Also I would reccomend you install a new oil pump drive stub GM p/n 1103868, that way you'll have new gears that can bed in together to avoid the cam chewing up the old oil pump drive gear.
Old 12-14-2013, 02:35 PM
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I dont know if you ever pulled the crank hub but I would suggest you read a few how to's because It seems like a lot of people who do cam swaps run into issues pulling the crank hub.
Old 12-16-2013, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
Like valve spring, set up, valve adjustment, and/or tuning. Even with stock heads, I never had one on my dyno "fall on it's face" past 6000 RPM.
I can't confirm or deny if the top end was setup correctly or not. Local engine shop that builds open wheel cart motors put it together, I basically installed it.
Perhaps you are correct. At this point I will never know as I now have an LS1.
Old 12-16-2013, 08:50 AM
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Are there any last things I'm forgetting to get that haven't been mentioned in this thread? I'll be following the guide by Shbox. I'll be starting at the end of this week.

Last edited by Wallj; 12-16-2013 at 08:57 AM.
Old 12-16-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by nascarnate326
I can't confirm or deny if the top end was setup correctly or not. Local engine shop that builds open wheel cart motors put it together, I basically installed it.
Perhaps you are correct. At this point I will never know as I now have an LS1.

"race" shops very often screwup street stuff because among other things they don't have any care or respect for it.
Old 12-17-2013, 10:54 AM
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And, if the guy installing it does not know, or bother to, degree it in properly the cam could be advanced.

That cam, when everything is right (including the tuning) runs hard past 6500.
Old 12-17-2013, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Wallj
So do you guys think I'd be ok shifting at 6200-6300 on a stock bottom end? As long as I have good oil pressure and everything? It would only be when at the track maybe 2-3 times a year..
I have a stock cam, LT4 springs, 1.6RR's and other valvetrain mods, and spin to 6300 on a regular basis with 202K miles on the stock bottom end. You should be fine.
Old 12-28-2013, 06:08 PM
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Update: I got the cam swap done. It was definitely tough but I got it all done with little help so that's good, especially being a highschooler. One issue, it seems to idle high. It definitely doesn't lope like many other hotcam cars. I had the idle set at 850. Also when I'm shifting, I let off the gas but the car stays revved up and starts to slowly drop after 10 seconds or so. Is this something to do with the intake gaskets? I know I had overtightened them so I backed them out and re did them. Would this causes them to be smashed down and not seal properly?
Old 12-28-2013, 06:35 PM
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Who did the tune?

Do you know if your MAF, IAC, and MAP sensors are good?

My LT1 Hotcam car did not have that issue, but my current LS1 car does some times.
Old 12-28-2013, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nascarnate326
Who did the tune?

Do you know if your MAF, IAC, and MAP sensors are good?

My LT1 Hotcam car did not have that issue, but my current LS1 car does some times.
I think they're all good. No engine lights or anything. I had madz28 do the tune. What was your idle set at?



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