Adjustable vs Non-adjustable rear suspension components
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 200
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From: Pennsylvania
Adjustable vs Non-adjustable rear suspension components The next mod I want to do to my car is the rear suspension. I've been looking at UMI LCAs and PHR and was wondering if the adjustable versions are worth twice the price. When do I need to spring for the adjustables? Only if the car is lowered? Are there other times it's better to have the adjustable version?
For reference here are the two versions I'm looking at:
Non-adjustable: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/up...20-b/overview/
Adjustable: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/up...29-b/overview/
For reference here are the two versions I'm looking at:
Non-adjustable: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/up...20-b/overview/
Adjustable: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/up...29-b/overview/
its really nice being able to adjust it yourself if needed. It all depends on what you plan on doing with the car. Its more expensive to buy things twice then to just save a little more and go with something that will work no matter what you plan to do later down the road. Ex: keep stock, lowered, other suspension pieces, etc...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
Stock height but not stock tire size. And I do want to consider that I may make changes down the road, so I guess it'd be best to spend a little more now than a lot later. What is the difference between these two sets?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/up...21-r/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-201829-b
Is it simply that one is on-car adjustable? Are there other differences? What does the rod end get me over the more traditional design?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/up...21-r/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-201829-b
Is it simply that one is on-car adjustable? Are there other differences? What does the rod end get me over the more traditional design?
All the searches I turned up say that Poly is good for the drags but binds up the rear for everything else, no side to side compliance. Don't know if there is a happy medium, maybe UMI's roto joint. Moog makes a solid rubber bushing for the stock lcas, kind of a 1LE equivalent.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
I'll be using the car mostly for weekend cruising but there will be the occasional strip day and I'm hoping to do a little SCCA racing, but I'm not looking for a race-only car. What's so bad about poly? When I was in this hobby 10 years ago everything was poly poly poly.
"Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement.
Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change."
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
The following is from Global West's web site but a search of the suspension topic forum will turn up many similar resposes. "Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement. Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change."
I'm a big fan of Delrin. For the front lower control arms, the closest you'll get to it is the UMI Delrin/Rotojoint arms.
I HATE the front lower arm bushing design. I wish it'd be two straight bushings in-line like the upper arms. And why hasn't the aftermarket (UMI & BMR) made a K-frame and lower control arms with in-line bushings?
I HATE the front lower arm bushing design. I wish it'd be two straight bushings in-line like the upper arms. And why hasn't the aftermarket (UMI & BMR) made a K-frame and lower control arms with in-line bushings?
I had DA poly ended LCAs, double rod ended LCAs, and non adjustable poly ended LCAs. The double adjustable poly ended ones would actually bind and twist and pop at the center under a hard turn, like it would force itself unlocked, that got annoying. The double rod ended stuff articulated great but transferred all vibrations to the car and I got tired of it. Now I'm on the non adjustable polys now and they do not MOVE. I got them for free and will be stepping up to poly 1 end rod on the other end soon to get articulation and noise isolation.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
I had DA poly ended LCAs, double rod ended LCAs, and non adjustable poly ended LCAs. The double adjustable poly ended ones would actually bind and twist and pop at the center under a hard turn, like it would force itself unlocked, that got annoying. The double rod ended stuff articulated great but transferred all vibrations to the car and I got tired of it. Now I'm on the non adjustable polys now and they do not MOVE. I got them for free and will be stepping up to poly 1 end rod on the other end soon to get articulation and noise isolation.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-2016-b
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-5022-b/overview/
