LOUD Comp rockers (Update!!)
#1
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I had my head gaskets replaced a while back and thought the rockers were louder than before when I dropped the car off. I took it back and had them readjust, still sounded the same. So I just finished adjusting them myself one cylinder at a time, half turn passed zero lash using the pushrod up and down method, still loud. It sounds like a very bad exhaust leak. TICK, TICK, TICK. Rockers are Comp Ultra Pro Mag 1.6, new LS7 lifters. I want to use the engine running method but I have the 24x swap, I would need to figure out a way to hang the coil and bracket above the motor.
Last edited by ascastil; 01-18-2014 at 12:13 PM.
#3
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Canton tall valve covers, header gaskets are good. Both sides sound equally loud. They have been adjusted before by a different shop and they were quiet, thats what I was used too. Now Im wondering if they were to tight and the most recent shop that adjusted them and now me did them right. They are loud enough I can hear them if there is a car next to me or Im driving along a wall, with the hood down even.
#4
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I was doing some reading about people having loud lifters after several attempts at adjusting them. One guy switched oil weight. I was using Valvoline 10 30 but I have no idea what this performance shop used that I took it to. Im gonna throw some 10 30 or 40 in there and see what happens.
#6
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Did u clearance the rockers to the spring retainer on top through the vlv cycle? Clearance the rocker to the spring through the vlv cycle? Did u clearance the rocker arm on the stud through the entire vlv cycle - the slot needs to clear the full arc?
Try a unbent paper clip,
cardo
Try a unbent paper clip,
cardo
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#8
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (22)
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This loud?
Do they sound like that, or even louder? Mine were quiet, then I had a valve spring break up near the top. I replaced all the beehive springs (not sure if they were Comp springs or PAC springs) with new PACs, afterwards I brought each cylinder to TDC to do the rockers, tightened the polylock until I couldn't spin the pushrod anymore, followed by 1/2 turn.
I am also using the ultra pro comp 1.6 rockers, NSA, LS7 lifters with around 30k on them, hardened pushrods/guideplates.
Oil wise I have used only conventional 10w-40 in this motor since it was rebuilt two years ago, my builder told me to use that weight due to the crank bearings he installed.
That video is how loud they are at the moment. I'm not sure if I'm going to go back in there again or not. Previously they were not that loud.
(Not thread related or I guess in a way it is, but why does it sometimes insert the youtube video directly and other times make a clickable link? Am I losing my mind?
)
Do they sound like that, or even louder? Mine were quiet, then I had a valve spring break up near the top. I replaced all the beehive springs (not sure if they were Comp springs or PAC springs) with new PACs, afterwards I brought each cylinder to TDC to do the rockers, tightened the polylock until I couldn't spin the pushrod anymore, followed by 1/2 turn.
I am also using the ultra pro comp 1.6 rockers, NSA, LS7 lifters with around 30k on them, hardened pushrods/guideplates.
Oil wise I have used only conventional 10w-40 in this motor since it was rebuilt two years ago, my builder told me to use that weight due to the crank bearings he installed.
That video is how loud they are at the moment. I'm not sure if I'm going to go back in there again or not. Previously they were not that loud.
(Not thread related or I guess in a way it is, but why does it sometimes insert the youtube video directly and other times make a clickable link? Am I losing my mind?
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Last edited by camar0corey; 01-08-2014 at 12:10 PM.
#10
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[QUOTE=camar0corey;17935435 afterwards I brought each cylinder to TDC to do the rockers, tightened the polylock until I couldn't spin the pushrod anymore, followed by 1/2 turn.
[/QUOTE]
....you don't tighten poly until you can't spin pushrod any more than go another 1/2 turn
you tighten poly (with fingers) until there is no up/down movement in PR then go 1/2 turn more.
if you did what you said...your lash is to tight.....and if it was done that way before when you broke a spring that is most likely why. bent push rods and wiped cam lopes can also result from a lash that is to tight
RR are louder than stamped rockers and have what is often refered to as a "sewing machine" sound to them
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....you don't tighten poly until you can't spin pushrod any more than go another 1/2 turn
you tighten poly (with fingers) until there is no up/down movement in PR then go 1/2 turn more.
if you did what you said...your lash is to tight.....and if it was done that way before when you broke a spring that is most likely why. bent push rods and wiped cam lopes can also result from a lash that is to tight
RR are louder than stamped rockers and have what is often refered to as a "sewing machine" sound to them
#11
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Well I just started it again to make sure I wasnt crazy and they are as quiet as can be when the car is cold. I know if I drive it around and bring it up to temp theyll start ticking. What do you guys think? Should I try adjusting them again? Its a PITA now that I have all those coils on there now, otherwise I would have already. Not real sure itll be any different though. Pushrod up and down till no movement, 1/2 turn more, tighten allen lock. I did it one cylinder at a time using Shoeboxes site.
#12
TECH Senior Member
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Since the engine has been ran you can set them cold with no problem.
This is how I've done it for years.
Make sure you are on the base circle of the cam. Roll the engine over by hand or use a remote starter(much easier). Let's say you start on cylinder #1. With one valve at max lift adjust the other. Spin it loosely between your fingers as you tighten the nut. When it doesn't spin freely that's zero lash.
FWIW I've found 3/4 turn is about perfect on SBC's w/ iron block and aluminum heads w/ stock style lifters.
This is how I've done it for years.
Make sure you are on the base circle of the cam. Roll the engine over by hand or use a remote starter(much easier). Let's say you start on cylinder #1. With one valve at max lift adjust the other. Spin it loosely between your fingers as you tighten the nut. When it doesn't spin freely that's zero lash.
FWIW I've found 3/4 turn is about perfect on SBC's w/ iron block and aluminum heads w/ stock style lifters.
#13
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Since the engine has been ran you can set them cold with no problem.
This is how I've done it for years.
Make sure you are on the base circle of the cam. Roll the engine over by hand or use a remote starter(much easier). Let's say you start on cylinder #1. With one valve at max lift adjust the other. Spin it loosely between your fingers as you tighten the nut. When it doesn't spin freely that's zero lash.
FWIW I've found 3/4 turn is about perfect on SBC's w/ iron block and aluminum heads w/ stock style lifters.
This is how I've done it for years.
Make sure you are on the base circle of the cam. Roll the engine over by hand or use a remote starter(much easier). Let's say you start on cylinder #1. With one valve at max lift adjust the other. Spin it loosely between your fingers as you tighten the nut. When it doesn't spin freely that's zero lash.
FWIW I've found 3/4 turn is about perfect on SBC's w/ iron block and aluminum heads w/ stock style lifters.
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
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Because when the engine warms up aluminum expands more than iron. Tolerances are different at different temps and between different metals. That's why you have to run a little more preload. On an all aluminum motor like an LS1 you have to run even more to compensate for the engine "growing"
Also when it's warm the oil thins out some.
Also when it's warm the oil thins out some.
#19
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If I remember correctly I think those rocker arms are noisy. For some reason I remember that when I used them on a build for my friends 93Z. I also remember I had to cut some bracing off the inside of the valve covers because they are wider than stock. Just thought I would throw that out there.
#20