Going through some of the excess crap behind my dash - I already did the key bypass with a resistor because it gave me problems before. Since the dash is out of the car I have the VATS module right in front of me. Can I just chuck the thing at this point? Security light flashing would not be an issue.

On that note has anyone here gone to a simpler starting system entirely? If so link/guide/pictures would be appreciated.

Oh I had Ion tune the VATS out of my car when I had him do a programming update as well.

 

Buy this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/321184237309?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac81286fd&vxp=mtr
Ground out the TDR and call it good.

 

If that is the case you don't need it. Unless of course the vats is in the bcm.
Just to be safe unhook it and if the car runs normally you don't need it.

 

I no longer have the stock PCM so I don't know if this will work for you. All I needed to do was ground the control wire normally grounded by the theft module, and run my solenoid wire to the starter.. keeping the stock starter relay. The theft module grounds a "fuel enable signal" wire going to the PCM. It uses PWM to ground it.. All Ion did in the tune was delete the DTCs related to the VATS.. he did not remove the programming of it far as I know.

The yellow and black wire going to the theft module from the starter relay needs grounded. Note the PWM "fuel enable signal" wire going to the PCM from the theft module - you could try just grounding that also..

http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg

 

There is no BCM on a 95 car.
*Edit* - he also has a 97 it looks like.. which DOES have a BCM and the wiring would be different from what I posted above. Clarification please OP?

 

You can't just ground the fuel enable signal wire, because it is a PWM ground. That is what the bypass module (if needed) is for. The OP has VATS programmed out, so no bypass module is necessary.

 

I figured that would not work.. So the coding in the PCM to look for the fuel enable signal from the theft module is removed by Ion? I thought all that was able to be done was removing the DTCs that are set.

 

He is a she.

 

Sorry, I need to edit my sig the 97 trans am got wrecked

I now have two 95s, one is the 383 in sig and the other one is stock.

 

I believe that defeating the DTC takes care of it.

 

I'm going to dig this thread up as it's about the closest to what I've found in a search. I want to totally delete the VATS system, no resistors, no plug in modules, I want to keep the stock starter relay (I need to keep NSS) and not just bypass it. I don't need to worry about tuning or anything associated with the ECU or fuel pump (I'm using a standalone), just the wiring side. This is in a 93 Z28. Any inputs?

 

Ground the yellow/black wire for the starter enable relay. Its next to the glove box mounted on a metal bracket iirc near another relay. The dark green goes to the nss/clutch safety switch. This turns into the purple wire feeding the starter solenoid. I believe the large yellow goes to the ignition and the small yellow to the crank fuse but my diagram shows them spliced together. Shouldn't matter either way for what you are doing.

 

After that, there's no reason why the VATS module and corresponding wiring would need to stick around is there? That yellow/black wire runs (ran) to the VATS connector. The Starter relay has 2 large yellow wires and one green, I had one of them spliced to the green to bypass the relay, I'm assuming the other is where power comes in and then through the yellow/black to pull in the relay through ground. Thank you for the reply sweetbmxrider.

 

The yellow/black is the ground signal from the module. The ignition switch feeds the power side. The green goes to the nss. A stock pcm would need the vats disabled in the tune but you should be ok.