Quick Question about my car!
Quick Question about my car! So, I have a 94 LT1 Camaro, Hot cam, springs, exhaust, CAI, and rocker arms ready to be installed.
So my transmission decided to not want to go into OD at all, and when you start it, it goes to first once, and will not shift back down into first unless you let it sit for a few hours and try again.
So we decided to pull it out and get another.
We bought a 4L60E today with a 3500 stall on it, freshly rebuilt, less than 10 miles on it, guy rebuilt it and put it and and nos'd his car and blew the motor.
I was wondering since everything is stock, except what is mentioned, would it be ok to run the 3500 stall on it, or should we use our old stock one?
Will their be any lag, difference in power or MPG?
Thanks in advance!
**EDIT
It is also bored .030 over
So my transmission decided to not want to go into OD at all, and when you start it, it goes to first once, and will not shift back down into first unless you let it sit for a few hours and try again.
So we decided to pull it out and get another.
We bought a 4L60E today with a 3500 stall on it, freshly rebuilt, less than 10 miles on it, guy rebuilt it and put it and and nos'd his car and blew the motor.
I was wondering since everything is stock, except what is mentioned, would it be ok to run the 3500 stall on it, or should we use our old stock one?
Will their be any lag, difference in power or MPG?
Thanks in advance!
**EDIT
It is also bored .030 over
Last edited by WCT13; Jan 31, 2014 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Forgot something
And its not a matter of if I wanted to, I am just curious as to whether it is recommended/safe to run it with stock gears etc...
What brand converter is it? 9.5 or 10" hopefully ??
Stall rpm alone tells very little; it could be a perfect match for that Hotcam, or it could be a piece of junk that generates lots of heat and drives miserably.
Stall rpm alone tells very little; it could be a perfect match for that Hotcam, or it could be a piece of junk that generates lots of heat and drives miserably.
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/4286713467.html
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I wasn't referring to you OP.
The second comment is what I was referring to.
Think of a stall rpm as what RPM "will break the tires loose".
In theory it means you can hold the break and rev the stall up to 3500rpm before it transfers the torque and pushes through the brakes.
A stall uses fluid and basically lets the trans slip until desired rpm is reached then basically engages.
Looking at a quick dyno sheet for a hot cam, 3500 is roughly the peak torque output for the hot cam. So I would say its a pretty good sized stall for that cam.
The second comment is what I was referring to.
Think of a stall rpm as what RPM "will break the tires loose".
In theory it means you can hold the break and rev the stall up to 3500rpm before it transfers the torque and pushes through the brakes.
A stall uses fluid and basically lets the trans slip until desired rpm is reached then basically engages.
Looking at a quick dyno sheet for a hot cam, 3500 is roughly the peak torque output for the hot cam. So I would say its a pretty good sized stall for that cam.
Last edited by F0x Slaughter; Jan 31, 2014 at 10:38 PM.
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I wasn't referring to you OP.
The second comment is what I was referring to.
Think of a stall rpm as what RPM "will break the tires loose".
In theory it means you can hold the break and rev the stall up to 3500rpm before it transfers the torque and pushes through the brakes.
A stall uses fluid and basically lets the trans slip until desired rpm is reached then basically engages.
The second comment is what I was referring to.
Think of a stall rpm as what RPM "will break the tires loose".
In theory it means you can hold the break and rev the stall up to 3500rpm before it transfers the torque and pushes through the brakes.
A stall uses fluid and basically lets the trans slip until desired rpm is reached then basically engages.
Just seen your edit...we might go ahead and keep it in their, if anything we will just sell it and get a smaller one
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http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=78/prd78.htm
Read.
How big a stall did he have in it? What did he have done?
That shouldn't do anything.
As I said the stall basically locks up around that general RPM. If you let go of the brake it will move at idle.
Read.
How big a stall did he have in it? What did he have done?
That shouldn't do anything.
As I said the stall basically locks up around that general RPM. If you let go of the brake it will move at idle.
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=78/prd78.htm
Read.
How big a stall did he have in it? What did he have done?
That shouldn't do anything.
As I said the stall basically locks up around that general RPM. If you let go of the brake it will move at idle.
Read.
How big a stall did he have in it? What did he have done?
That shouldn't do anything.
As I said the stall basically locks up around that general RPM. If you let go of the brake it will move at idle.
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It should be fine. It is recommended to pick a stall 500-700 rpm under what peak torque is. So like a 2700-3000 would be better.
For your brother larger converters are generally "looser" which means they require more throttle to require basically what is lock up.
So it will still move on idle but if you are trying to accelerate but not fully it will require more throttle than before.
For your brother larger converters are generally "looser" which means they require more throttle to require basically what is lock up.
So it will still move on idle but if you are trying to accelerate but not fully it will require more throttle than before.
It really depends on who makes the stall. A good stall like yank you could run 4k and would still drive good. Were as you could run a cheap no name 3200 stall and drive like ****. The cheaper stalls are usally really loose and generate alot of heat. Heat will kill a tranny very fast. I would recommend on trying to find out who makes that stall. If you do decide to run it or any other bigger stall. Then buy a good tranny cooler.
It's a RevMax converter. I have the same one in my stock engined 93. Love it! It's definitely a budget converter, so make sure you get a quality fluid cooler. Aside from that run it and enjoy it. It won't hurt anything even with stock gears out back. When you get the tune for the cam, definitely let the tuner know about the new converter as well.
I had a bte 36-3800 in my nova when the lt1 was in it(I'm the op's brother) and I had planned to put 3.90's in it as well,but that didn't happen for a long time so yes I was riding around at 4k rpm all the time, but I think once you get a gear in the rear end it'll be OK, besides, ifwe run it and u ddon't like it, we'll stick the stocker back in and problem solved, and I know how stalls work, I just haven't had time to explain how they function to my bro, or research if 3500 was excessive for the hot cams power range and torque curve.
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From: centerville, ohio
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I would be concerned that if the stall that came with the "rebuilt tranny that died behind NOS..." was fully flushed as debris from the initial tranny failure may very well (read did) contaminate the TC
IMHO it is to big for the Hot cam...especially with stock gears...2600-2800 would fit the currrent package better. run a external cooler if you do go with it
IMHO it is to big for the Hot cam...especially with stock gears...2600-2800 would fit the currrent package better. run a external cooler if you do go with it
If you run a hi stall converter, you need a huge trans cooler to protect your investment. I like to keep the stock cooler in line first, then into an aftermarket unit back to the transmission. I run a B & m with external fan works great.