LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

396 stroker

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Old 02-12-2014, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by kris72079
Something tells me Joelster and SS RRR aren't on each others Christmas card lists?
SS RRR is on no ones Christmas card list.
Old 02-12-2014, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kris72079
Something tells me Joelster and SS RRR aren't on each others Christmas card lists?
There's history, but if he feels like muddling this thread with more nonsense, I'll leave that up to him. I'm just curious as to why he's in this thread referencing and arguing a failed build.
And if you are going to use those heads don't expect any 500rwhp figure no matter the cam profile.
Originally Posted by 97Z28SS
OP I see lots of people telling you to sell your AFRs and buy something else but why not just spend the money to get those ported further. Build the all forged bottom end and put in a cam in the 24x-25x @.050 and .6xx lift and add an AFR hydra rev kt and you can get maybe 480 rwhp. But the driveability with a cam that big won't be great.
Not true. My cam is about that profile and the driveability is phenomenal. For a 396 that's actually on the mellow side for a cam.

Last edited by SS RRR; 02-12-2014 at 09:53 PM.
Old 02-12-2014, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by kris72079
The heads are staying. I see no need to dump a brand new good set of heads to buy yet another vs just working the ones I've got...at least for the time being....ALSO, since I'm going to need a cam change, I'm pretty sure I'm going to swap to a solid roller setup, therefore no need for a hydra rev kit. Anyone with experience with EFI connection 24x kit? Thinking about maybe eliminating the opti and the LS PCM should afford some more revs, right?
I am going 24x on my build, for the ease of tuning and extra RPM ability (8k vs 7.2k).

If you go solid roller as well and want the extra RPM, I just listed a complete NIB 24x setup for sale today. I'm gonna go with the newer version for double rollers with billet timing cover, and it's like $850 so selling my standard setup to offset some of that.

Not trying to push it or anything, just a heads up if you need one since it's the cheapest one around right now. There is enough info and praise about it floating around already .
Old 02-13-2014, 11:54 AM
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I am going to give a little advice, I have a 396ci LT1 with 180cc Dart Pro 1s. The "smaller" runner is not going to be a problem on the street car.

My 396 is 3.875" Eagle crank, 6" Eagle H beam, and correspondingly 1.025" CH JE pistons. I would not advise going larger than 4.030" bore. 1.025" is about the smallest you can go with the ring pack, dished pistons are not a great idea on NA.

The motor made 580 at the flywheel and it has been sprayed with nitrous to make another 150 or so HP.

Keep the heads and pick the correct rotating assembly to cut down on the clearancing you will need to do.
Old 02-13-2014, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fex77k
I am going to give a little advice, I have a 396ci LT1 with 180cc Dart Pro 1s. The "smaller" runner is not going to be a problem on the street car.

My 396 is 3.875" Eagle crank, 6" Eagle H beam, and correspondingly 1.025" CH JE pistons. I would not advise going larger than 4.030" bore. 1.025" is about the smallest you can go with the ring pack, dished pistons are not a great idea on NA.

The motor made 580 at the flywheel and it has been sprayed with nitrous to make another 150 or so HP.

Keep the heads and pick the correct rotating assembly to cut down on the clearancing you will need to do.
Is there a specific negative to going with a 4.040" bore? I have called JE and verified the pistons have a 1.213 compression height. I have checked about all calculators I can think of and every thing appears to be fine. Math works out to 11.77:1 static with 4.040, 3.875, 55cc, 15cc dish, .026 gasket, and zero deck. What am I missing?
Old 02-13-2014, 03:39 PM
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Unless you like water in your bores.
Old 02-13-2014, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Unless you like water in your bores.
Are we really that close on a .030 over bore where .010" is going to put me into the waterjacket?
Old 02-13-2014, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kris72079
Is there a specific negative to going with a 4.040" bore?

I was told by many people here in this forum, Jegs/Summit Techs(Not the brightest bunch), and different engine builders not to go .040 HG on a .030 bore block. Because their is so much risk with the piston coming into contact with the edge of the HG(The HG supposedly shifts around slightly while putting the heads on and torquing them down). I think the .040 HG is for the standard bore 4.000. I know you are trying to shoot for high CR but you wont lose much by going 4.060 HG. You should still be around 11:6.................
Old 02-13-2014, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kris72079
Are we really that close on a .030 over bore where .010" is going to put me into the waterjacket?
Just cause tech says not to do something, isn't always why things are not done.
Old 02-13-2014, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SwampWS6
I was told by many people here in this forum, Jegs/Summit Techs(Not the brightest bunch), and different engine builders not to go .040 HG on a .030 bore block. Because their is so much risk with the piston coming into contact with the edge of the HG(The HG supposedly shifts around slightly while putting the heads on and torquing them down). I think the .040 HG is for the standard bore 4.000. I know you are trying to shoot for high CR but you wont lose much by going 4.060 HG. You should still be around 11:6.................
You lost me there...what is HG? I'm just not coming up with it....The only reason I'm considering a 4.040 bore is that I have the ability to get a great deal on a set of 5.850" rods and a set of 4.040" pistons, that's all. I threw the info about CR in there because someone mentioned checking CH and not liking the dish piston...

NM--I'm a douche. HG=head gasket. either way, I wouldn't go .040 gasket on a .030 bore, too close. I was talking about a .040 bore on the block...
Old 02-13-2014, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Just cause tech says not to do something, isn't always why things are not done.
Then what are you getting at? If someone says don't do something and there's a good reason I'll take it into consideration. The motor isn't built so I'm trying to gauge pros and cons of everything before I start. Help me out here...
Old 02-13-2014, 04:27 PM
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Talk to your machinist, spend some coin to have the block checked out for the overbore, and pray that you never trash a piston or something, cause your block is garage if you do.
Old 02-13-2014, 06:23 PM
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I saw around .140"-240" bore thickness on a stock 95 LT1 Vette block. I went to 4.040" on one block. I wouldn't recommend going below .100" wall thickness, even if your block is perfect and has no flaws.

.026" gasket on a zero deck block is too little of clearance for the piston.
Old 02-13-2014, 07:26 PM
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4.030 on the block, 4.040 cometic gaskets, with Ross forged dome pistons (don't know the dome height), afr 227 LT4 76cc chambers.
was told it was 11:2:1
Are you saying it isn't good to have the .040 gaskets?
mine runs but I have never spun it up past 7000rpm rev limiter.
only 1000 miles on engine so far.
Am I in danger of hitting a piston?
Old 02-13-2014, 07:44 PM
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I run 4.04" cometic gasket on a 4.04" bore.
Old 02-13-2014, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by purpleflamzz
mine runs but I have never spun it up past 7000rpm rev limiter.
only 1000 miles on engine so far.
Am I in danger of hitting a piston?
If anything you should be running that thing like a scald *** ape to seat the rings properly.
Old 02-13-2014, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
If anything you should be running that thing like a scald *** ape to seat the rings properly.
Rings are seated motor was broke in but the stock pcm didn't let it go above 7000 without the fuel tables falling off/leaning out so to be safe I kept it at 7000. OBD1 pcm doesn't jive with these 8000 rpm Strokers lol.
Old 02-14-2014, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by noice
.026" gasket on a zero deck block is too little of clearance for the piston.
Yes, I just saw that up in post 65. That had to be a mis-statement, cause it sure as heck ain't gonna work!
Old 02-14-2014, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by purpleflamzz
4.030 on the block, 4.040 cometic gaskets, with Ross forged dome pistons (don't know the dome height), afr 227 LT4 76cc chambers.
was told it was 11:2:1
Are you saying it isn't good to have the .040 gaskets?
mine runs but I have never spun it up past 7000rpm rev limiter.
only 1000 miles on engine so far.
Am I in danger of hitting a piston?
Zero deck with .040" gaskets are fine. I have to ask, why 76cc chambers?
Flat pistons and smaller chambers are more efficient. It's gonna like a lot of timing.
Old 02-14-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
Zero deck with .040" gaskets are fine. I have to ask, why 76cc chambers?
Flat pistons and smaller chambers are more efficient. It's gonna like a lot of timing.
okay, so impart some wisdom on me because I'm just learning this stuff. If I were to be looking for a "magic number" for head to piston clearance, what would that be? I'm guessing I'm gonna get a ton of "there's no magic number" responses, but clearly a zero deck and .026" gasket is no good but a zero deck and .040" is okay? Are we talking the same thing with the numbers? Because I'm understanding that as head to piston clearance. That being said, mathematically if I were .015" deck with a .026 gasket is the same?


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