Rear axle!!!
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From: atco
Rear axle!!! Hi I have a 96 z28 spraying a 125 shot .5 in to the run. The car has a yank 3200 stall converter and 3.42 gears. I have been running it on street tires with my best et 12.07 at 115mph, but the bottle pressure was low so I should be in the 11's. Any way I am wanting to put slicks on it and spray it off the line. I have a ten bolt now and I know a lot of you say there no good. My questions are what rear should I use and where to get it from. Also do you think I could upgrade the 10 bolt to handle my power. I was looking at doing a 12 bolt but don't want to pay 2,500 for a rear. Thanks for the help.
I'm eventually going Ford 9" once funds allow, Quick performance seems to have the best prices for bolt in rears, and plenty of options.
I wouldn't spend any money on the 10 bolt with the torque nitrous makes. I did build up mine a bit before my project snowballed from cam only to 383, it was doing one wheel peels when the stock diff died, so put 4.10's, eaton posi, and a TA girdle on it. It hasn't exploded just yet with a 6spd, kevlar racing clutch, over 400 RWTQ and drag radials, but I haven't really abused it. It cost over $800 to do all that which I wish I had just bit the bullet and gone straight to the 9".
I wouldn't spend any money on the 10 bolt with the torque nitrous makes. I did build up mine a bit before my project snowballed from cam only to 383, it was doing one wheel peels when the stock diff died, so put 4.10's, eaton posi, and a TA girdle on it. It hasn't exploded just yet with a 6spd, kevlar racing clutch, over 400 RWTQ and drag radials, but I haven't really abused it. It cost over $800 to do all that which I wish I had just bit the bullet and gone straight to the 9".
Last edited by ahritchie; Feb 15, 2014 at 07:49 PM.
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From: atco
I was looking at the quick performance 9 inch and I couldn't tell if it came with 3 channel abs. All the 9 inches I found don't come with the third member. Do you know if there is anything cheaper. the quick unit is going to be around 2,400 all said and done. Thanks
^^^ There are no cheap new aftermarket rears. If you replace the rear then the stock drive shaft becomes the weak link, should replace it too. A broken DS will tear your **** up. Being a A4 with the relatively strong 3.42s you would probably be okay with the 10 bolt and DRs.
Ahritchie, you are definitely cutting it close with your 10 bolt. With a better rear it is so nice not to cringe when you're bangin' gears.
Ahritchie, you are definitely cutting it close with your 10 bolt. With a better rear it is so nice not to cringe when you're bangin' gears.
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Heres an alternative for less $$: http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...d/viewall.html
Hope this helps,
cardo
Hope this helps,
cardo
(and holds more fluid). Most of the time it's the ring and pinion gears that fail from what I understand; 4.10's being the weakest. Some people just keep putting new gears in it till their sick of it.
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I sprayed my car with stock 10 bolt and it held pretty good. Pulled 1.53 60ft but that don't mean you can get away with it. With your mods id look into a 12 bolt. Be lighter and less rotating mass.
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With the mild 3200 stall and presumably a mild engine setup? I don't think you are going to shock the axle that badly, going to be a few feet off the line by the time a properly setup window switch lets the nitrous come in. If sticking with the 3.42s for now as covered those are strong.
IMO I think you can get by on the 10bolt for now unless you are leaving out a major detail.
Start getting into a more powerful engine and higher stall, gears with a smaller pinion and things get riskier.
The article linked a few posts above talks about getting the axle to live at 425-450rwhp, a bolton car with 125 shot will likely be up in that range, they used 3.32 gears a stronger ratio than most NA cars use and were going to use it with an STS turbo setup, not something that will hit the tires anywhere near as hard as a say 400rwhp NA motor with 36-3800 stall and 4.10s which is very common. There is more to things than a HP number and some pretty parts.
IMO I think you can get by on the 10bolt for now unless you are leaving out a major detail.
Start getting into a more powerful engine and higher stall, gears with a smaller pinion and things get riskier.
The article linked a few posts above talks about getting the axle to live at 425-450rwhp, a bolton car with 125 shot will likely be up in that range, they used 3.32 gears a stronger ratio than most NA cars use and were going to use it with an STS turbo setup, not something that will hit the tires anywhere near as hard as a say 400rwhp NA motor with 36-3800 stall and 4.10s which is very common. There is more to things than a HP number and some pretty parts.
Last edited by 96capricemgr; Feb 16, 2014 at 06:29 AM.
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From: atco
Thanks again guys. And no details left out the motor is untouched. I don't even have all the bolt ons. The only thing I left out were my shortie headers. The 10 bolt has not gave me any problems yet so I guess I am going to spray it off the line with some Micky et street bias ply tire and see what happens.
Are you using a window switch? You should probably set to around 3500 and that will delay the nitrous till just after you leave the line softening the hit a lot vs. a hot NA motor with higher stall. Once you know how the car is reacting you could try and lower the window switch some.
If getting 12.0 from a 125shot on a car with just partial boltons you are doing decent, guys have gone faster but most don't even manage that.
If getting 12.0 from a 125shot on a car with just partial boltons you are doing decent, guys have gone faster but most don't even manage that.
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From: atco
Thanks man. And no widow switch but I do have a delay box. I am happy with the times but I think I need some sort of drag tire because I want to start bracket racing the car. I am pretty consistent with my street tires but think I will be dead on with a slick.
A window switch will go a LONG ways towards keeping the engine happy at launch and the tranny happy by shutting down the nitrous during the shift.
A full shot of nitrous at too low an rpm is a lot of load on an engine.
A full shot of nitrous at too low an rpm is a lot of load on an engine.
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U can always keep shopping for a used 12 bolt on the camaro/fb forums - they show up frequently and those for 3rd gen rears fit also. Years ago the vendors sold a DANA 44 (i believe 44) rear that was a bolt in for the 3rd and 4th gen camaro/fb and u may find a used one of those also.
Man i wish i had an 8.8 inch but that is a ton of work.
Take your time. Anyone can recommend spending $3k to $5k for a HD rear but u actualy have to know something about parts to find a strong enough rear end without spending the farm.
cardo
Man i wish i had an 8.8 inch but that is a ton of work.
Take your time. Anyone can recommend spending $3k to $5k for a HD rear but u actualy have to know something about parts to find a strong enough rear end without spending the farm.
cardo
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Im with u ballas, this is my hobby, not a reason to spend my retirement account. And ya know its kinda more fun to shop for the bargain stuff.
Right now my car has 250k mi and the stock 3.23 rear. But i bent an axle several years ago and the shop put in Yukon axles for me - well known with the off road/rock trail/climbing crowd. Something else the 4 wheelers do is have their gear sets Cryogenic treatment for strength but the not popular with the drag race crowd for some reason.
cardo
Right now my car has 250k mi and the stock 3.23 rear. But i bent an axle several years ago and the shop put in Yukon axles for me - well known with the off road/rock trail/climbing crowd. Something else the 4 wheelers do is have their gear sets Cryogenic treatment for strength but the not popular with the drag race crowd for some reason.
cardo
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From: atco
Ya cardo0 that is exactly how I think of my car. I do everything my self for as cheap as I can while doing it right. I haven't even put a catback on the car yet because I see no need. And it's nice to see someone with more mileage then me for once lol I got 202000. Thank for the input everyone