Speed Engineering LT1 Stainless Longtubes Now Available!!
#123
i currently have mid headers. Will I need a cherry picker to raise the engine a bit for more elbow room? Can I jack the engine from bottom?
#124
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So just wanted to contribute to this thread, my Speed Engineering headers showed up today and I'm more than happy with the quality and fitment. I was able to drop both headers in from the top relatively easy. It's not to say I didn't make a few mistakes though.
First one, I bought Stage 8 locking header bolts which are 7/16 x 1". On the outermost bolts, I can't a wrench or anything on them. Second, On the front most bolt, I somehow managed to mess up the hole and started going in sideways....
I'm probably just going to pick up some ARP 5/16 12pt bolts to put on instead, and should I use a thread chaser for the messed up hole? Would I need a 3/8-16 thread chaser? I've never used one before.
Here's a pic of the drivers side, which was cake compared to the passenger.
First one, I bought Stage 8 locking header bolts which are 7/16 x 1". On the outermost bolts, I can't a wrench or anything on them. Second, On the front most bolt, I somehow managed to mess up the hole and started going in sideways....
I'm probably just going to pick up some ARP 5/16 12pt bolts to put on instead, and should I use a thread chaser for the messed up hole? Would I need a 3/8-16 thread chaser? I've never used one before.
Here's a pic of the drivers side, which was cake compared to the passenger.
#127
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I finally got the Speed Engineering headers completely in. Bought new o2 sensors, plugs, wires, and changed the oil. Removed all the air/egr crap as well. My Y pipe comes tomorrow. You could probably fit a small hair in between the driver header and the steering knuckle! Also, I didn't have to beat up the bottom of the car for the headers to clear either, they fit really well actually. I'll post all my pics when I get the Y pipe on tomorrow. I can't wait to fire it up!
Oh, and 5/16 arp header bolts and ratcheting wrench for the win. I'll never buy anything except 5/16 from now on. Wasted 60 bucks on those damn Stage 8 bolts
Oh, and 5/16 arp header bolts and ratcheting wrench for the win. I'll never buy anything except 5/16 from now on. Wasted 60 bucks on those damn Stage 8 bolts
#128
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I can't get the ls1 Y pipe to fit the headers. It's really not even close. Maybe i'm doing it wrong, but the angle at which the Y pipes join the headers is pretty far off, and then the exhaust ends up way towards the passenger side where they join. I've tried rotating all the pipes, everything. What gives? Someone feel free to chime in here........
I have the Y pipe assembled just like in the picture....
I have the Y pipe assembled just like in the picture....
#133
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The pacesetter Y would probably be my choice if I did it again. Speed Eng. did say they are about 2 months out on an LT1 Y pipe though if you wait that long.
#136
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Just a S/O to Speed Engineering, you guys should take the R&D from making an LT1 Y-pipe and use it to make a new downpipe for the true duals. I was able to use a single piece of scrap pipe to adapt it all, but it was incredibly simple. On the driver's side, you just need an L-shaped piece to make it fit LT1 headers.
#137
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Just a S/O to Speed Engineering, you guys should take the R&D from making an LT1 Y-pipe and use it to make a new downpipe for the true duals. I was able to use a single piece of scrap pipe to adapt it all, but it was incredibly simple. On the driver's side, you just need an L-shaped piece to make it fit LT1 headers.
mught think) Part #: 25-1006+07+04
pic: