transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

I'm in the process of getting my fbody back to being road worthy after getting a GTO and letting it sit for a year and a half. While I'm redoing the suspension I noticed some big cracks in the inner wheelhouse so I poked at it with a screwdriver and this is what I found.

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What are my options from here? and about how much would it cost to repair this? The drivers side looks fine.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

Rust is like cancer, it will spread unless you cut it out and replace it.

bowtiedad_z28

iTrader: (4)

Hey Darren is that you? I would take your car in and see what someone would charge to fix it right. That was to nice of a car to let get any worse. Glad to see you still have it.

bore.me

iTrader: (15)

I re-sprayed my wheel wells with a nice dark black rubberized undercoating to prevent this... it didn't help cause rust was already starting underneath the coating. Anyway if you get it patched then I recommend covering metal with a rust encapsulator then rubberized undercoat.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

Yup it's me. Once I get my front suspension back together I'll be taking it to a shop and getting a quote. If it's too expensive I can always just patch it up here at work in the fab shop.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Mini tubs

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

Cut out the bad rust where the metal is paper thin and grind the rest free of rust.
Cut a patch panel out of sheet metal to go on the inside of the car and make sure it covers the previously rusted area.
Bend and shape the metal to look as original as possible and then you can use panel bond to adhere it to the car.
Inside the car paint the patch panel to prevent rust.
In the inner fender well you can use seam sealer around the edges where the cut out rust meets with the new patch panel. You can use the seam sealer as a build up to level across the patch panel instead of just at the over lap. This would be better then bondo.
Then texture coat the inside of the fender. With a heavy texture it should be hardly noticeable and the rust should not come back since the panel bond and seam sealer will cut off the air supply and most of the rust has been removed.

SchaefZ28

iTrader: (2)

^ Pretty much what jaycenk said.
This is exactly how my right rear wheel well looked before the restoration. I cut out the rusted area, and used a wire wheel to get off any surface rust from the metal that was still salvageable (a torch and wire brush works well to remove the factory wheel well undercoating stuff). Then welded a patch piece to cover the hole. Next I used seam sealer on both sides, then painted both sides, and finally recoated both wheel wells. I highly recommend 3M Body Schutz (you use a siphon gun and air compressor to spray it). If you like, you can find start to finish pics here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...y-my-94-z.html

RogueLT1

iTrader: (2)

^^^ what they said is going to be your cheapest option. patch it. to do it right is to cut the outer and inner quarter off and weld in a new one, if you can find one. if its that bad in that area, it's probably spreading pretty good around it too. mini tubs might be a good option at this point too.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

If you spray the wheelwells with rubber undercoater, OVER THE RUST, the rust will spread faster, as it seals in the moisture, giving it a better chance to work!!


At the minimum, coat the rust with 'POR15', or 'Rust Bullet', to preventit from spreading, then get estimates on fixing it properly.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

If you want to really make sure they dont rust clean all that rubber crap off and prep it for a rhino liner or linex coating. We use that stuff in just about all the trunks when we replace them. We have one (68 Firebird convert) that the guy wanted the entire bottom of the car coated and then we also coated the inside of the car.

RogueLT1

iTrader: (2)

He is correct, simply recovering it will only make it rust faster. after you clean it up and patch it, use a product like marhyde(not sure on spelling) to convert whatever surface rust is left in the area to primer and then put some epoxy on the whole repair area before putting a new undercoating or product like that on top of it.

bore.me

iTrader: (15)

Yes that's what i was saying. In my case I must not have completely removed the rust before re-coating and therefor I had more rust develop under the coating. I was warning against re-coating before the rust was totally cut out and treated.

Also I've worked at a Line-X shop and the same idea applies with that. Also it's hard for a Line-X gun to be able to cover the outer lip where it meets the fender