PS cooler install
04-01-2014, 08:31 PM
#1
PS cooler install Just sharing the latest install in preparation for AutoX this season.
I got the idea from LS6427 in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ng-issues.html
I just looked up a "transmission cooler" from Autozone (P/N 401). $30 comes with cooler, a section of hose, 4 hose clamps, and some plastic radiator zip ties.
I went a step further and angled mine slightly and made a bigger hole in the lower diffuser to have more air flow over a larger frontal area of the cooler.
I simply took hose #33 from the below picture:
I pulled it back down from how it is routed up through the engine bay to the PS tank and attached it to the cooler. Then used the supplied hose in the kit and ran it from the cooler up through the engine bay and to the PS tank. As it sits I assume flow goes from thank, to PS pump, to the rack, through cooler and back to tank.
Good thing is that during the winter months, I can remove the cooler and put it back to stock. No factory lines were cut/modified doing this.
I got the idea from LS6427 in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ng-issues.html
I just looked up a "transmission cooler" from Autozone (P/N 401). $30 comes with cooler, a section of hose, 4 hose clamps, and some plastic radiator zip ties.
I went a step further and angled mine slightly and made a bigger hole in the lower diffuser to have more air flow over a larger frontal area of the cooler.
I simply took hose #33 from the below picture:
I pulled it back down from how it is routed up through the engine bay to the PS tank and attached it to the cooler. Then used the supplied hose in the kit and ran it from the cooler up through the engine bay and to the PS tank. As it sits I assume flow goes from thank, to PS pump, to the rack, through cooler and back to tank.
Good thing is that during the winter months, I can remove the cooler and put it back to stock. No factory lines were cut/modified doing this.
04-02-2014, 06:27 AM
#3
It's there to see how it works. I ran out of time last night. I'm planning to use some flat stock to make a bracket.
Unless I smash into curbs, I don't see how it would come off though.
Unless I smash into curbs, I don't see how it would come off though.
04-02-2014, 10:07 AM
#4
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idk about you but my air dam will hit the ground coming out of some driveways also you would be suprised over the amount of debris that flys through there. i see something hitting that and blasting a hole in it
04-02-2014, 10:30 AM
#5
your plumbing 1n/out is right direction. don't know if there is any room to mount it in front of radiator/AC condenser vs under the car. would be less vulnerable to road debris and driveway scrapes
I have a B-body and just used my old A4 cooler (swapped to T56) for PS cooler. It also required no modification to stock return hose as it feeds direct to cooler than a new piece of hose goes back up to reservoir.
I had to bend up a piece of 3/8" fuel/brake line I got at NAPA to route around radiator. Could have cut up the stock lines but had the piece of brake line with fitting on both ends in my parts bin. IIRC it was around $8 when I bought it.
Good idea to run a PS cooler, especially for auto x applications. PS fluid gets WAY hot under those conditions
I have a B-body and just used my old A4 cooler (swapped to T56) for PS cooler. It also required no modification to stock return hose as it feeds direct to cooler than a new piece of hose goes back up to reservoir.
I had to bend up a piece of 3/8" fuel/brake line I got at NAPA to route around radiator. Could have cut up the stock lines but had the piece of brake line with fitting on both ends in my parts bin. IIRC it was around $8 when I bought it.
Good idea to run a PS cooler, especially for auto x applications. PS fluid gets WAY hot under those conditions
04-02-2014, 12:34 PM
#6
I'm not lowered....yet. I plan to go with Strano springs/shocks maybe next summer. I don't encounter any steep driveways to have a rubbing issue.
This was a quick install that I honestly decided to install on a whim last night lol. I have AutoX this weekend and wanted to make sure it was on before then. It was sunny and 60 degrees so I said "screw it lets get it done". Good thing because it's chilly and rainy today.
I figured it didn't really matter HOW you plumb the cooler in. Just make sure it's "in-line" with the system. Luckily the stock line and the line that came with the kit was the same size so it all worked out well.
Because of the length of the stock hose, it won't reach to the front of the radiator/condenser. If there was a simple hose clamp at the other end then I would just get a longer hose. But it has a OEM crimp fitting connecting to a hardline I didn't want to mess with.
This was a quick install that I honestly decided to install on a whim last night lol. I have AutoX this weekend and wanted to make sure it was on before then. It was sunny and 60 degrees so I said "screw it lets get it done". Good thing because it's chilly and rainy today.
I figured it didn't really matter HOW you plumb the cooler in. Just make sure it's "in-line" with the system. Luckily the stock line and the line that came with the kit was the same size so it all worked out well.
Because of the length of the stock hose, it won't reach to the front of the radiator/condenser. If there was a simple hose clamp at the other end then I would just get a longer hose. But it has a OEM crimp fitting connecting to a hardline I didn't want to mess with.
Last edited by smitty2919; 04-02-2014 at 12:59 PM.
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04-02-2014, 11:39 PM
#8
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This is where I would put one (circled in red). Might have to cut a little plastic. It's well out of the way there. Seen a few track cars with it like this and no problems.
edit: just realized your cooler looks about twice as big as the ones I've seen mounted in this location, so may not work without a lot of trimming.
I'd be hesitant to cut a hole in the center section of the dam, on the sides sure... But I'm guessing that hole is stealing a decent amount of air from the rad.. Just a thought.
edit: just realized your cooler looks about twice as big as the ones I've seen mounted in this location, so may not work without a lot of trimming.
I'd be hesitant to cut a hole in the center section of the dam, on the sides sure... But I'm guessing that hole is stealing a decent amount of air from the rad.. Just a thought.
04-03-2014, 01:39 AM
#9
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I've heard that these coolers don't need to be in direct flow of air. I'd find an old metal computer with the air slits along side, cut that slit part out, paint it black and cover that hole in the dam with 4 screws, would still get air flow in but will protect the radiator, and look badass. I've seen similar stuff at home depot tho, decorative metal panels that are thin and easy to cut
04-03-2014, 10:01 AM
#10
They may not need to be in direct air flow...but it sure doesn't hurt lol. I'm sure simply having this cooler is a benefit. Mounting it behind the radiator/fan shroud, it will technically see "heated" air as it passed through the AC condenser and radiator first. With my engineering minded thought process...that doesn't make sense to do that lol.
It can get humid here in NKY, but I don't deal with constant 100*+ days to where I would be worried about "robbing the front end" of air. For autocross, I won't be keeping high speeds for sustained periods of time to worry about adverse cooling effects with a hole in the front air damn.
If this was a RR car pulling high RPM's for long straights, I would rethink this location/mounting situation. Being a DD, highest speeds will be 70-80mph highway cruising.
This will be fine for this weekend. Then I make some brackets out of 1/8" x 1" flat stock and use bolts etc to attach it. It would be nifty to mount it in front of the metal bumper support and behind the bumper cover where the foglights are. I have removed mine since they cracked and looked like a$$. But that will involve longer hoses.
It can get humid here in NKY, but I don't deal with constant 100*+ days to where I would be worried about "robbing the front end" of air. For autocross, I won't be keeping high speeds for sustained periods of time to worry about adverse cooling effects with a hole in the front air damn.
If this was a RR car pulling high RPM's for long straights, I would rethink this location/mounting situation. Being a DD, highest speeds will be 70-80mph highway cruising.
This will be fine for this weekend. Then I make some brackets out of 1/8" x 1" flat stock and use bolts etc to attach it. It would be nifty to mount it in front of the metal bumper support and behind the bumper cover where the foglights are. I have removed mine since they cracked and looked like a$$. But that will involve longer hoses.
04-03-2014, 11:29 AM
#11
Smitty
should you chose to relocate the cooler, and a longer hose is required, just use a simple hose coupler and clamp it. Or cut your stock return line just before the crimp on metal part, flare it, and clamp on a new piece of flex hose the length needed.
you can get perforated metal at most hardware stores, cut/paint to size and rivet on air dam to cover the open cut-out if you want
should you chose to relocate the cooler, and a longer hose is required, just use a simple hose coupler and clamp it. Or cut your stock return line just before the crimp on metal part, flare it, and clamp on a new piece of flex hose the length needed.
you can get perforated metal at most hardware stores, cut/paint to size and rivet on air dam to cover the open cut-out if you want
04-03-2014, 12:13 PM
#12
Smitty
should you chose to relocate the cooler, and a longer hose is required, just use a simple hose coupler and clamp it. Or cut your stock return line just before the crimp on metal part, flare it, and clamp on a new piece of flex hose the length needed.
you can get perforated metal at most hardware stores, cut/paint to size and rivet on air dam to cover the open cut-out if you want
should you chose to relocate the cooler, and a longer hose is required, just use a simple hose coupler and clamp it. Or cut your stock return line just before the crimp on metal part, flare it, and clamp on a new piece of flex hose the length needed.
you can get perforated metal at most hardware stores, cut/paint to size and rivet on air dam to cover the open cut-out if you want
Having said that, I do care for how the car "looks" but you won't find me putting tire shine/waxing the car every nice day LOL.
Now that you mentioned "repairing" the hole, I could also remake the whole front air dam out of thin steel or aluminum. Maybe have it protrude farther down to catch more air.
Next steps may be to duct in some brake coolers by cutting a hole in the bumper support where the fog lights were.