96 LT1 Reluctor/washer.
#21
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my post #13 has the link to the bolt from Summit. It comes with the washer
There are various forms of hub remove/install tools, some home made involving grade 8 threaded steel rod, stack of washers and a thrust bearing. A search should bring up a few how to's on it
I have the Kent Moore tool that GM uses. Plug & play but they are very hard to find and not cheap. The ATI hub is different than stock so some improvising with a large washer for the hub to install but no big deal
Your local auto part store should have a generic puller/install tool in their loan a tool program that should work
Never ever pull the hub on with bolt or beat it on with a hammer. Use a hub install tool
There are various forms of hub remove/install tools, some home made involving grade 8 threaded steel rod, stack of washers and a thrust bearing. A search should bring up a few how to's on it
I have the Kent Moore tool that GM uses. Plug & play but they are very hard to find and not cheap. The ATI hub is different than stock so some improvising with a large washer for the hub to install but no big deal
Your local auto part store should have a generic puller/install tool in their loan a tool program that should work
Never ever pull the hub on with bolt or beat it on with a hammer. Use a hub install tool
Ordering the summit bolt now. I used an impact wrench last time I put the hub on, and now I am sure thats what cause it to be destroyed. I found a hub installer at Autozone I will use next time.
Thanks so much for your help!
#22
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the ATI hub is keyed so you need to pick up the correct key. auto part store should have one.
You don't have to use one but highly recommended
yeah I bet you did FU the threads using a impact gun and bolt. Bolts are cheap and fortunately you were able to get the crank threads back
The install tool will have a long threaded rod you screw into the crank as far as it will go then you put the hub part on then tool along with various washers and a thrust bearing and a big nut. You are now pulling against the threaded rod, not threaded crank snout
You don't have to use one but highly recommended
yeah I bet you did FU the threads using a impact gun and bolt. Bolts are cheap and fortunately you were able to get the crank threads back
The install tool will have a long threaded rod you screw into the crank as far as it will go then you put the hub part on then tool along with various washers and a thrust bearing and a big nut. You are now pulling against the threaded rod, not threaded crank snout
#23
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I ordered the bolt through summit. It is 2.47" in length and comes with the .3215" washer. This is going to be a bit longer than what I was running before with my ARP bolt and the washers. Do you still think this will fit correctly?
One last misc. question, for my timing cover, my seals for the crank and the cam on the timing cover still "look" perfect. Do I need to pop them out and replace them? Or should I still be good.
Again, we are talking very very small amount of engine running time has been done since they were initially installed.
One last misc. question, for my timing cover, my seals for the crank and the cam on the timing cover still "look" perfect. Do I need to pop them out and replace them? Or should I still be good.
Again, we are talking very very small amount of engine running time has been done since they were initially installed.
#24
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the ATI hub is different than the stock one in terms of how recessed the center bolt is which is why you need toe ATI bolt and their thick washer.
Once you install the hub you just screw in the center bolt with washer and TQ to spec. The install tool pulls the hub all the way on
your barely used TC seals are fine to leave
if you have the 10% under drive damper you need the shorter belt #4060630
Once you install the hub you just screw in the center bolt with washer and TQ to spec. The install tool pulls the hub all the way on
your barely used TC seals are fine to leave
if you have the 10% under drive damper you need the shorter belt #4060630