CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

I'm aware of the LE packages, and for the most part you all are sticking by it. But have anyone tried the Trick Flow 430 HP Gen X kit? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tf...-400/overview/ I only ask because I will still have to purchase rockers, spring, retainers, pushrods and such. Even after buying all that, the LE still would be cheaper. But IMO the trick flow kit is not ported, so it leaves room for more improvements?

hrcslam

The Trickflow Topend package is 430 flywheel. My LE2 heads with stock intake, stock TB, LT headers, dyno tune, and bolt ons, on the Lunati cam (see sig for details) put down 414rwhp on a dyno reading 300 rpms lower than actual, SAE corrected on a Mustang Dyno. My total build (including headers, Y-Pipe, fuel pump, injectors, sealants, fluids, machine work, pistons, rods, gaskets, spark plugs, everything) cost me ~$4500. If you correct the 300rpm discrepancy on my Dyno pull it's around 430hp to the wheels.

With that $2600 you could get that kit, or you could get the LE Trickflow heads ($1800), Custom LE cam ($400), topend gasket set ($121), ARP head bolts ($83) and 1.6:1 RR ($250) for $2653; I basically listed everything in that kit, but with LE port work done to it and a much better cam.

IMO, it's not even close.

CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

Oh ok... Good looks. Snyder said they can do a 383 stroker that would put around 400 to the ground for 3500ish. I'm thinking of letting him do my short block which should be cheaper then his total rebuild cost with that top end kit you mention. But if that LE kit will be better then I guess I need to be talking to Elliot ASAP... Lol

hrcslam

Make sure Snyder does NOT use a cast crank, it is not worth the money saved. If going 383, go fully forged and get a good balance done on it. $3500 for 400rwhp is a damn good price. But I'd be leery with what parts are involved to get that price.

Also, be cautious of the Recon requirements in Hawaii. Out of State registration might be your only option. You are military so you could push that angle. But if you bought it there it may not be available. Check with the DMV before you start modding the car. Even aftermarket wheels require Recon approval and sometimes they won't pass inspection (even if they are the same size as stock, but a different style, due to clearances), it's stupid.

CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

Yeah snyders quoted me 600 for the cast bottom and 700 for all forged. So ima go all forged short block if he say 3500 for total rebuild. Then I'm guessing his short block all forged should be 1800 or so. Yeah I have a 98 Buick regal total modded with, I didn't have a problem. But they offer us military ppl a non residency form where I don't pay really nothing. I payed 20.00 to get my 2014 registered with the state. But imma check on recon requirements...

MEAN LT1

iTrader: (2)

Theres this company I heard did badass heads too. They call them selves Advanced Induction.

www.advancedinduction.com

hrcslam

From what I've seen, AI typically pushes more power, but they also cost more. They are still a great value though. Definitely better than the Trickflow package.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

$700 for a forged rotating assembly would about have to mean complete garbage rods and pistons. There are a LOT of SBC pistons out there that are a big step backwards from the stock LT1 piston.

You get caught in a blind quest for displacement and use junk components to get it you will get walked by heads/cam cars.

Slow down an gain a LOT more understanding before you follow through on a bad choice and endup committed to it.

katz_2003

iTrader: (5)

Agreed! 700 for a rotating assembly will not be good at all! My forged pistons alone were somewhere around 600. If you go putting a cheap rotating assembly with a good set of heads/cam you will have problems especially with AI or LE top end kits.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I'd go LPE, GTP or AI before going LE because...

hrcslam

That is common with many SBC port jobs. The two head bolts between the intake ports on the head get sleeved often due to port work.

CNC machining is less likely to cause problems, of course. But it's more expensive.

$1800 for AI 200cc LT1 heads assembled, but no cam. $1600 for LE2 assembled heads with cam ~205cc. AI's flow better and push more power, but costs at least $600 more with a matching cam.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

There certainly are some good head porters out there. Lloyd will be the cheapest. Yes there have been a few issues here and there but in the percentage of issues his stuff has had over the years is probably extremely small. Like miniscule. People don't understand how much work he's done over the last 12-15 years. There is a small handful who have had issues, which he does his best to make right, but considering the volume of work the percentage of problems is way low. In my opinion it's similar to pretty much every company out there, there will be mistakes made. It unfortunate but every company will make mistakes from time to time.

If we condemn every company who has made a mistake, like some people do, then there wouldnt be a single company left standing. If you don't personally want to go with a certain company that's perfectly fine. Making public your specific case is perfectly warranted but hunting down threads to blast someone...not so much.

When people who have never used some of these people talk trash, it wears me out.

Lloyd himself had said this on more than one occasion....if you have no budget, go with AI, but if you're on a budget go with him. AI heads are more consistent and will make more power on a lot of setups, but they will cost quite a bit more. With Lloyd also he can do custom port jobs not specific to stage 1, 2, or 3. He can do just a little porting if you want, or porting in between what he calls LE1, 2, or 3 heads. You can literally tell him how much you want to spend and he will tell you what he can do for you.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It's an opinion based on observations made by those who've used said product and have expressed their displeasure on these forums, other forums and personally dating back at least 10 years ago. Take it FWIW. That is my suggestion. You don't have to like it.

CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

So I called back my machine shop and ask again to reconfirm the forged price. He said it will be 700.00 more on top of the 600 to 700 for cast . I guess I didn't hear him right. he made fun of me for a while... But he informed me that he has 2 new eagle kits in the shop from guys going other routes.. But back on subject I don't want to rock my pockets. I have 2 years but I want to drive the darn thing. I might just say **** it and fix the head gasket and do bolt ons just to put my foot into it

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Probably a good idea. Rebuilding an engine is a huge undertaking especially for someone who's never done it before. As far as Eagle is concerned, there have been a lot of issues with their cranks. If you ever decide to go that route make sure a competent machinist checks all tolerances before laying it in the block. Mainly the crank snout, flywheel/flexhplate flange and pilot hole. Those areas have been known to be out of kilter on their cranks, and customers didn't find out until the block was already assembled.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Don't run an eagle CAST crank. Scat cast is ok if you keep it less than 6000rpm and don't spray, which will give you 350-370rwhp and lots of torque, but the much much better option is reuse your stock crank with some forged 6" rods and forged 1.5/1.5/3mm ring pistons and a good head/cam package because you will make much more power and be able to spray down the road with zero fear of failure.

Lloyd hand ports his heads, AI uses a cnc. AIs heads are identical as they come out and are delivered, Lloyd is doing it all by hand which is why very rarely he can hit water. He will make any mistakes he makes right, yes it's a pain to have to call him and get a new head if you are among the 0.1% that gets something wrong with them, but he's done thousands of heads with very few mistakes. Also, most of his work comes from people on forums finding out about him, there is no advertisements for him so 99% of the issues people have are on people who are active on forums so they are almost always documented on the forums, and since there are so few issues on the forums, it is a safe bet to go with his products and you can make within 5-10hp of AI.

hrcslam

For the love of God, don't touch the Eagle CAST crank...


X2 for just fix the head gaskets and do bolt ons for now. You could also up your valve springs while the heads are off, after that you could do 1.6:1 RR too without fear of valve float. Then you'll be a cam and push rods away from a cam upgrade.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

My le2's smack dat *** bro.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

You may be surprised at what a "real" bolt-on build will do.

I'm not talking a catback, CAI, and mail order then calling it a day...but suspension(minimum of LCAs, relos, adj TQ arm, and rear sway bar to put power down at the track), gears, stall if auto, longtubes, dyno tune, TB, EWP, 1.6rrs, valvesprings, pushrods, etc...

You would use up close to your budget without making much more power on a dyno, but the car will be a LOT more fun to drive and quicker at the track - plus you will be ready for the real mods instead of throwing a stroker in a car and running like a cam only build. I ran 12.8s with bolt-ons, which isn't very fast, but if you look at some of these cammed cars in here running 12.5s it doesn't sound too bad.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Ditto to what Puck says about building the car to utilize the power prior to going into the engine to add more.
I had my bolt-on modded ImpalaSS running 12.3's. The most radical mods on it were 4.10 gears and a 3400 TC, but the suspension was beefed to handle a lot more power. It wasn't compromised IMO for daily use, trips, and roadcourse duty.
It made for an immediately satisfying H/C setup.....within 2 track visits after the H/C installation, it was running 11.3's @ 3800+ lbs, with no problems of breaking or exposing any weak points.