LT1T56

So I replaced my rear main seal in my LT1 6 speed and when i go to start after i reassembled the starter would not crank and the clutch had no pressure. Then i thought that it might be clutch switch i pressed harder on the clutch and got the starter to crank but since i pressed harder on the cluctch i heard a snap and looked below and there was fluid all over the ground. But now since i got the car to run now the starter will not disengage. I was thinking maybe when i put the slave back on the bellhousing that i didnt line it up with the fork or maybe i put the flywheel on wrong and now the starter is hitting it. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

waltsfastz

iTrader: (4)

As for the slave cylinder I have done the same thing once. I got the slave rod on the side of the bellhousing and not the fork, Got in and gave her a good slam and pop, fluid running on the ground. Slave is junked. Recheck the wiring on the starter and make sure the soliniod wire is not up against a post on the starter.

LT1T56

Damn it I feel dumb now. I was doing it in a hurry cause it was like 30 degrees out haha. I'll check out the wiring too thanks man

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Now that you broke something you will be extra happy to hear the rear main almost never leaks, rather the intake leaks at the rear and people blindly assume it is the rear main.

LT1T56

Well before I did that I checked the intake manifold and I didn't see a leak.

BALLSS

LT1

now that you puked your slave you either buy a new one and "try" to bleed the system or just get a new sealed MC & slave.

the new slave will have a plastic strap on it. leave it on. 1st time you push the clutch in it will break and the plastic cup stays on slave piston

installing a new slave only and then bleeding with MC installed will be a PIA and likely you won't get all the air out without removing old MC and bench bleeding the whole system

rockauto.com will be cheapest. some auto part stores carry the mc/slave assembly

unless you FU the wires of starter on the swap just make sure your starter is set flush and bolts are tight. The FW only can go on one way

as noted by Caprice RMS rarely leak but if you confirmed yours did than replacing it was needed. if it did leak I assume it puked oil on clutch also so if it did, replace it.

if your clutch assembly is out of balance for some reason and you have vibrations that will also cause a good RMS to leak. Happened to a F-body guy I see at the track when he put a stock FW on a "internally" balanced motor. The vibration caused his brand new motor to leak from RMS. Replaced FW with neutral balanced one and RNS stopped leaking....and car stopped vibrating like a dog shiating razor blades

LT1T56

The only thing is that I'm in the middle of trying to sell it. Why is it hard to bleed just the slave by itself and read somewhere that you can't actually bleed this car.

BALLSS

the stock hydraulics are a sealed system with no external bleed valve. the angle the MC is mounted on pedal assembly makes it hard to bleed because air bubbles get trapped in the "high" side of MC as the hose to reservoir is below that. That is why most have better luck bench bleeding as you can position the MC on bench so the "high" point allows air bubbles to get out. Some have had success with bleeding hydraulics while installed on vehicle. You remove slave and let it hang and pump the piston is short strokes as someone else watches from above for air bubbles and keeps re-filling reservoir. You fill the slave on bench by holding it upside down and pouring in brake fluid. do very small short pumps to get all the air out of it. you do get some air in the system just then connecting the slave to the braided steel line and whatever air gets into the MC once you separate slave from system. you need to bleed this air out

DO NOT push clutch pedal in without slave being properly mounted or you will explode the slave again.