LT-1 Pan Gasket Replacement
12-19-2014, 10:12 AM
#1
LT-1 Pan Gasket Replacement Need to replace pan gasket on '94 Trans Am LT1. Have read several write-ups on this but it is unclear whether or not I need to drain the coolant and remove radiator hoses in order to raise the engine sufficiently for pan clearance. Anyone with experience on this?
12-19-2014, 08:06 PM
#2
Hey KS, I've stuck you here in the world of LT1 so these guys can get you going.
My advice: If you still have the stock K-frame, consider going with a nice UMI or BMR tubular K-frame. A good amount of work but it's lighter and really clears up stuff.
When I did mine I hung the motor on a bar across the shock towers.
Plenty access to that oil pan with no frame in the way.
My advice: If you still have the stock K-frame, consider going with a nice UMI or BMR tubular K-frame. A good amount of work but it's lighter and really clears up stuff.
When I did mine I hung the motor on a bar across the shock towers.
Plenty access to that oil pan with no frame in the way.
12-21-2014, 11:53 AM
#4
Aight, so all you need to do is replace the pan gasket? If so its no biggy. I had to replace my whole pan about a year ago or so. That is an undertaking but a pan gasket replacement is relatively not bad.
As for your question about hoses and coolant etc. Forget about those. DO NOT worry about that.
Get the car up in the air.
Once on stands, jack the motor up on the bell housing of the trans close to where the motor and trans bolt up. But remember you need to get between the trans and engine to get to that rear main.
"Maybe remove your air intake from the throttle body"
When you jack the motor you'll have to jack it just a bit to get the motor mount bolts out. Then once the bolts are out you can raise the motor a little way. The back of the motor will hit the top of the firewall so thats where you have to stop as the car will start to come off the stands. So BE CAREFUL. Lower it just enough to get the rest of the car back on the stands if you go too far.
Now loosen up you pan bolts and drop the pan. You will have a couple inches, maybe more. If you can slip the old gasket out and the new one in great!. If you need a little more room, what you need to do is loosen the 6 k frame bolts. but don't remove them. You should be able to get enough room to do what you need to with just loosening them. Once you've got your new gasket in and the pan is all tightened up. "You may need a second jack to raise your k frame back up" Tighten up your k frame bolts. Lower the motor back into its motor mounts. They can be temperamental so you may have to persuade them back into place sometimes. Then tighten everything and your done!
As for your question about hoses and coolant etc. Forget about those. DO NOT worry about that.
Get the car up in the air.
Once on stands, jack the motor up on the bell housing of the trans close to where the motor and trans bolt up. But remember you need to get between the trans and engine to get to that rear main.
"Maybe remove your air intake from the throttle body"
When you jack the motor you'll have to jack it just a bit to get the motor mount bolts out. Then once the bolts are out you can raise the motor a little way. The back of the motor will hit the top of the firewall so thats where you have to stop as the car will start to come off the stands. So BE CAREFUL. Lower it just enough to get the rest of the car back on the stands if you go too far.
Now loosen up you pan bolts and drop the pan. You will have a couple inches, maybe more. If you can slip the old gasket out and the new one in great!. If you need a little more room, what you need to do is loosen the 6 k frame bolts. but don't remove them. You should be able to get enough room to do what you need to with just loosening them. Once you've got your new gasket in and the pan is all tightened up. "You may need a second jack to raise your k frame back up" Tighten up your k frame bolts. Lower the motor back into its motor mounts. They can be temperamental so you may have to persuade them back into place sometimes. Then tighten everything and your done!
12-23-2014, 11:56 AM
#6
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ive done it twice on my 97 no you dont have to drain the coolant pull the y pipe out, pull the motor mount bolts and jack up the motor as far as it will go. i used blocks of wood wedged in the two halves of the motor mounts to hold the motor up, then slide the pan out. if it gets stuck on the crank then turn it by hand until the pan drops out. oh and mines an auto
12-23-2014, 12:59 PM
#7
if you rotate motor to #6 TDC...there will be more crank/pan clearane. I use the blue FelPro pan gasket. It comes with 4 plastic studs to hold gasket it place so you can raise the pan onto it. put black ultra RTV on the 4 corners where the curved part of crank & Timing cover meet the pan
remove the oil level sensor on DS of pan before removing pan. If you feel you need to remove the dip stick tube...there is one small bolt that holds it in. you need to remove starter to get to it if you can't manage access from up top
remove the oil level sensor on DS of pan before removing pan. If you feel you need to remove the dip stick tube...there is one small bolt that holds it in. you need to remove starter to get to it if you can't manage access from up top
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12-24-2014, 12:15 PM
#8
Thanks to all for the advice. Car is an automatic. I did go ahead and drain coolant...car has oil cooler and had to reposition oil cooler coolant lines in order to get to oil pan bolts. Had minimal coolant spill when lines were unbolted from the oil cooler.
12-24-2014, 11:39 PM
#9
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Why the need to drop the pan and lift the engine? Why can't you just thoroughly clean the outside of the pan and surrounding areas, take all bolts out, take original gasket off and slip news gasket around the outside of the pan and work it up to the block? It's rubber and very elastic so it should not stretch it.