93M6Formula

Okay guys, i've read and read and see so many different things when it comes to measuring pushrods and I need some clarification...

I have a CC503, Comp Pro Mag rockers, 918 springs etc etc. This is the method I was going to use, please correct me if i'm wrong.

I'm using a stock lifter that modified to be solid, I have the comp cams adjustable pushrod checker. So I will set the pushrod to 7.200" to start, tighten my poly lock until I hit zero lash and stop. I will rotate the motor over a few times, pull the rocker back off and check the contact patch of the rocker on the valve stem. If it favors the exhaust side, I will want to shorten the pushrod to 7.150" for example and try again. If it ends up in the middle of the valve tip, that 7.150" is the size I need to order correct? So at this point, do I need to account for preload? Does that add length to the pushrod? If I were to get a 7.150" pushrod, wouldn't it be too short once I add preload? That's where i'm confused.

BALLSS

if you use a "solid" lifter than it won't compress as a hydraulic would when you add "pre-load" from lash.

With that said I do exactly as you described in using a PR check tool and adjusting until the witness mark is dead center and as narrow a sweep as possible.

7.150 and 7.100 are VERY common results with a H/C swap

I have not tried but there is a Proform PR length tool that is used once spring is installed and PR (without RR). This would mean it is used with no pre-load on a lifter.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66790

this one is for 7/16 RR studs. They make it for 3/8" also

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If anything you want the sweep as narrow as possible. If the sweep favors one side over the other you want it to be on the exhaust side.

93M6Formula

That's what i've been reading as well so I will keep that in mind.

93M6Formula

Okay I think I understand now, preload doesn't play a part in pushrod length? Whatever I measure with a solid lifter and the rocker set at zero lash and the rocker tip being centered on the valve tip, should be the length I need correct? Preload is just slightly compressing the lifter for a "cushion" and quieter operation basically?

lt1-xjs

If you didn't remove your heads and they are stock, you won't need to change the length.

hrcslam

This is not always the case. Changing the cam and/or rockers can and do change your valve train geometry. Any time anything on the head or valve train is changed the geometry should be double checked.

Sweep area is more important than sweep location. Within reason of course. A small sweep favoring the exhaust is better than a large sweep over the center. At mid lift you want the rocker perpendicular to the cylinder bore. This will put the highest and lowest point of the rocker at the same point on the valve and give you your best sweep. If that puts your sweep area too close to the valve stem edge adjust the pushrod length to bring it closer to center.

BALLSS

yes..

93M6Formula

All I needed to know thanks.

93M6Formula

Talks all this ****, still doesn't know how to use the quote button on a forum...

You have to be the biggest douchebag on the internet. I help a lot of other people out but have never offered advice on pushrod length because I was never sure so I asked for help and got it, thats what a forum is for you ******* troll. I help people with stuff I know, I try not to give bad info. You have proven on every forum you've been on that you are completely full of yourself and believe your **** don't stink, and go to extreme lengths to prove you think you know what you are talking about, only to get shut down by people much more knowledgeable than you.

And two things, #1 Where the hell did I say I don't know what the difference between a hydraulic lifter and a solid lifter is? I took a hydraulic lifter and shimmed it so it was solid and took the measurements with my comp cams pushrod length checker, I don't know what the hell you were reading but I never said anything about not knowing the difference. There is nothing "hick" about what I was doing #2 I've been on this forum for decades huh??? You must not be too smart since I only joined in 2008 when I was 18, if your little brain can do the math that's less than 7 years...

I don't know where you got the audacity to come into my thread just to say that garbage you did but you sir can **** off.

ACE1252

LoL, like you have room to talk.

The fun starts around post #25.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...rances-868738/

...and not long after that he signed up here.

Dirty_Bird

lmao!

93M6Formula

Dude is a freakin' joke, ruins every thread he comes into. I wish the Mods would get rid of him already.

JC316

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. I don't know a single mechanic that isn't constantly learning,. Take me, I'm great at diagnosing and repairing stock stuff, but I am completely new to modifying the internals with aftermarket stuff, so I ask questions.

I can dole out advice and how to videos on everything from alternators to 5.3L swaps, but if you ask me about checking pushrod length, valve spring height, or degreeing a cam, I won't have an answer.

I have far more respect for the guy that asks questions and learns from them, then I do for the loudmouth that tries to point out other people's flaws to make himself look better.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure there is some sort of OCD with all the magazine/book/manual/website references given. Either that or the village troll title needs to be handed down.

I think this quote by Debler needs to be permanently inserted into cardo0's signature:

93M6Formula

I saw that quote too, definitely a lot of truth to it.

ACE1252

Go back to the injector thread and actually read it(good luck to ya). No one said anything about using a Ford calibration sheet on a GM injector. The sheet was proof to you that a change in fuel pressure changes the voltage offsets as well as other parameters. No one said anything about running an injector at 100% duty cycle either. That came from your half baked attempt at reading comprehension. That is fact. Don't like it? Tough.

Same BS time and time again from you. Spreading misinformation and trolling whenever you get called out for being wrong.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Deleted some foolishness.

cardo0, watch what you say, I'm watching you.

I'll leave this open as it's a good topic but if it runs off the rails again, well I won't be happy.

Kevin97ss

From what I've seen in the past couple years...I think you deserve to hand off that title. Though, Richard will be missed by all

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Let us stop for a second and consider the basic architecture we are working with was born in the 50s with sub-.400 lift, eventually GM was using a bit more but most OEM cams for the gen 1-2 architecture are say .470 and under. We are talking about setting stuff up way way outside the range this architecture was designed for.

Which is why you have folks saying narrowest sweep is unlikely to be center, we are asking it to handle things well outside what GM designed it for. In a perfect world the pattern would be center and narrow, but since we are using different ratio rockers and 35%+ more lift than the original architecture it just isn't going to happen.

I also think folks get far too worked up over it, the valvetrain is adjustable afterall.


Basically pick what you feel is best be it center or narrow or some balance of the two and run with it. The valvetrain is again adjustable.

Only time I have ever heard of pushrod length induced damage in an LT1 was a checkbook mechanic put in pushrods so long he ran the roller tips off the edge of the valve tip and RAN IT busting a bunch of the guides!

Long as you are conscience of pattern width and location on valve I think you will do just fine.

Non adjustable valvetrain like the LS1 variants are going to be more sensitive and I think people hear about that and presume the same level of sensitivity applies to this application. IMO it does not.