Pulling Heads Question
Pulling Heads Question Im going to be installing some new LE heads on my car soon with the motor in car. Ive been reading about this job for some time now but can not find a clear answer about removing the exhaust if its necessary or not.
Is it necessary to remove the headers from the engine bay to remove the heads from the motor? OR, can I just simply unbolt the exhaust from the heads and still be able to remove the heads with enough room? I currently have pacesetter LT headers with y pipe.
Is it necessary to remove the headers from the engine bay to remove the heads from the motor? OR, can I just simply unbolt the exhaust from the heads and still be able to remove the heads with enough room? I currently have pacesetter LT headers with y pipe.
I have Hookers and the best way to reach all the head bolts was to pull the spark plugs, wires and headers out of the engine bay. There is too much going on if you leave any of that in while trying to remove the heads.
My first time doing H/C I left the headers in. While I was able to do it, it was a huge PITA and made the head install even harder (especially getting to the outside 8 bolts). My advice, pull the headers.
I was dreading having to pull the headers for this. It never crossed my mind to have to pull them until now. I was really trying to avoid touching the exhaust since it absolutely sucked to install. Looks like i might have to get some stainless steel headers now since my pacesetters are trash after 7 years. More money......It never ends.
As far as getting headers out of the engine bay it's really no big deal. You can do one side at a time. Use a 2X4 under the oil pan and take the engine mount bolt off, jack engine as far as you can. The passenger is a little tricky with the air box. Because it's old it will be brittle and you may run the risk of cracking it. Nothing a little fiberglass resin kit won't fix. Just make sure to remove the air bellows from the TB and air intake. Plugs will have to come out too, but instead of loosening them out I take a flat head screw driver and break the porcelain off the plugs to the point the header flange can pass through. Then just take the rest of the plug out after the head is off the engine. Saves time.
As far as getting headers out of the engine bay it's really no big deal. You can do one side at a time. Use a 2X4 under the oil pan and take the engine mount bolt off, jack engine as far as you can. The passenger is a little tricky with the air box. Because it's old it will be brittle and you may run the risk of cracking it. Nothing a little fiberglass resin kit won't fix. Just make sure to remove the air bellows from the TB and air intake. Plugs will have to come out too, but instead of loosening them out I take a flat head screw driver and break the porcelain off the plugs to the point the header flange can pass through. Then just take the rest of the plug out after the head is off the engine. Saves time.
The poor guy, no pun intended, is trying to do the job without breaking the bank, and you're suggesting he spend another $30 for new plugs.......
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I don't get $30 for plugs either it is $15 for the basic TR6 or 104 he should be using or more than $30 if he wanted to do it wrong and try to use stock platinum tip.
Snapping the porcelain sounds like a good tip to me.
Snapping the porcelain sounds like a good tip to me.
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Verdad Gallardo Over the years, I've tossed a LOT of stuff, that I later wished I'd hung on to, for just a few months.....
Let's not debate the "maybe's" when we have no idea. It's always a good idea to just replace plugs when they're out. One of the main reasons is in these cars since it is so cramped there is a good chance of cracking a plug and not even knowing it. I've always found it's far easier to be careful installing the plugs than trying to torque on them and loosen a plug while the socket may be at a weird angle. If it does break, the fracture to the porcelain may not be visible. Once it goes back in you then have a miss, which leads to hunting down the what and the why. No matter how you look at it, plugs are cheap. You don't have to buy top priced plugs and think it's doing you any better than buying a Champion or Autolite plug. Even NGK's are reasonable.
Aside from that, putting new heads on your car and getting a tune would you really trust the used plugs to be firing at 100% when they are just that cheap to replace?
Aside from that, putting new heads on your car and getting a tune would you really trust the used plugs to be firing at 100% when they are just that cheap to replace?
Hopefully with new heads they are milled a little and using a lot thinner head gasket, higher compression usually means a cooler plug is needed.
I know TR5 or TR55 is still popular in heads/cam setups but most of us find it to be a little too warm, and too many folks have had the platinum pucks come off stock plugs when run hard to risk their too high heat on a modified motor.
I know TR5 or TR55 is still popular in heads/cam setups but most of us find it to be a little too warm, and too many folks have had the platinum pucks come off stock plugs when run hard to risk their too high heat on a modified motor.
When I pulled the heads off my LT1 I did what SSR was saying but it was more in a rage I unbolted the header and it wouldn't squeeze around the plugs so i grabbed it as far up on the primary as possible as well as the collecter and just broke the porcelain off 3 of the 4 plugs and then just used a screwdriver to get the last one.....Worked like a champ!
Had garbage Ebay headers on which were more trouble than they were worth took the torch to the passenger side and cut that bitch out. LOL
Had garbage Ebay headers on which were more trouble than they were worth took the torch to the passenger side and cut that bitch out. LOL
What's funny about that, at least with the Hooker LT's, I think at least on the passenger side the flange laid exactly right in line with the lowermost head bolts. I mean like dead center of the bolt head and there really was no way to get to any of the bolts. Now that I think about it I believe I was able to leave the drivers header in because the #1 primary has a slip fit several inches down so it freed up some space.
The passenger header is definitely more in-the-way than the driver side. Either way, I was only able to accomplish it with a concoction of swivel joints and short extensions to get around the headers. I would never do it that way again.
well this thread blew up for no reason. lol
im definitly not going to smash my spark plugs since it takes maybe 30mins to take them out. plus there ngk tr55 irridium ones so there expensive. i do plan on running the auto lite 104 plug for the added compression and HP I'm going to be throwing at it. I just didn't plan on spending another $600 for exhaust. Looks like I'm gonna have to go that route though to properly torque and install the heads. since my lt pacesetters are rusted to hell anyways.
im definitly not going to smash my spark plugs since it takes maybe 30mins to take them out. plus there ngk tr55 irridium ones so there expensive. i do plan on running the auto lite 104 plug for the added compression and HP I'm going to be throwing at it. I just didn't plan on spending another $600 for exhaust. Looks like I'm gonna have to go that route though to properly torque and install the heads. since my lt pacesetters are rusted to hell anyways.