LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 died on road, starts then dies imediately

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Old 06-21-2015, 12:25 AM
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Default LT1 died on road, starts then dies imediately

ok everyone, Im new, I posted int he greetings first.

Anyway, 94 Z28, LT1, auto.

Its SC and June, really hot here

The problem started as a popping and farting, ONLY when the car was up to operating temp, ONLY during the heat of the day, stopped once while driving just as suddenly as it started. Thought, 'fuel pump', bought one from highflowfuel.com, put it in, it continued.

Changed the coolant temp sensor, ran it in the garage at night with fans off and let it get pretty warm, next day at lunch same theng.

Friday ran fine on the way home, went ahead and bought the intake air charge temp sensor, swapped it at Oreillys, simply because it just pops in, no muss no fuss, started ating worse then.

Today I changed the oil, monkeyed with the fans a bit, pulled the fuses to reset the pcm, fans were rigged on a toggle when I got it, ran fine, pulled out of my brothers street and it fell on its 'posterior' stalled, I coasted off the road, double checked wiring, car would fire up for a second then stall every time.

Got dragged home with a chain.

I thought it was the ignition module, I have seen Chevys warm up and die with a bad module before, let the car sit at least five hours for it to cool, expecting it to start and run until the module got hot, same thing, fires then stalls, pedaling doesnt help.

Changed fuel filter, no difference.

Im leaning towards either fuel pressure regulator went or ignition module and coil, just looking for some insight before I drop the cash.

I will check the fuel pressure tomorrow. I hate to think a new fuel pump Wednesday, especially a 'performance' pump, would die on Saturday.

I never had a running issue with this car until this, thought it was related to ambient air temp, meaning heat of the day. Never an issue before really hot weather.

Please note

My very sweet but very gullible old lady overheated it a couple times because she just doesnt 'get' 2 things, dont let it idle for an hour in park and when it loses coolant(from overheating) it needs 'burped'....dont get me started on her
Old 06-22-2015, 09:06 AM
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Loose/corroded battery terminals? Do plugs and wires just for ***** and grins.
Old 06-22-2015, 09:10 AM
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Could be the ICM....or could be the opti with all the "popping and farting" issues before the starting issues began.
Old 06-22-2015, 09:59 AM
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Also..check your IAC and make sure it's not stuck wide open. It will cause a similar situation.
Old 06-22-2015, 10:39 PM
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Ok, so Sunday after letting it sit overnight, I pulled the pump halfway out and checked flow out of the thank and back in through the return, waste of time and sweat, both were fine.

Put the pump back in, tried starting it again and pedaled it half to death, an it coughed and sputtered a few seconds then died. So I figured, duh, air, and unplugged the MAF, started right up happily.


Im buyin a coil and ignition module tomorrow. My GF(might be former at this point) overheated the crap out of it a few times because she didnt understand don let it idle forever, turn the fan on, and the coolin system must be bled of air on these cars....

So Im thinking she partially cooked the module, and while Im in there, Ill change the coil too.

BTW, this is the same woman that believes parts store teenagers over me, said she thought something was wrong with first gear, and some idiot told her the car the trans came from was wrecked in first gear...it was a ditched corvette, no body damage, just twisted the frame.....

It sometimes idles itself up at a redlight, not often, not dangerous, but put a woman behind the wheel and its a major problem. I heard IAC or carbon buildup is usually the cause.

Yes Im venting and pissed at my GF, and the fact she wracked my car, an she added insult to injury saying her mothers crapwagon 1980whatever nissan that wont go over 35 without shaking like a paint mixer, one headlight, one taillight, no brakelights and no wipers is safer than my quirky but maintained Camaro...

I mention someone did a hit and run when it was parked last night and destroyed my bumper cover?

Yes, having a bad day, sorry if Im gassing on
Old 06-22-2015, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by D Vineyard
Ok, so Sunday after letting it sit overnight, I pulled the pump halfway out and checked flow out of the thank and back in through the return, waste of time and sweat, both were fine.

Put the pump back in, tried starting it again and pedaled it half to death, an it coughed and sputtered a few seconds then died. So I figured, duh, air, and unplugged the MAF, started right up happily.


Im buyin a coil and ignition module tomorrow. My GF(might be former at this point) overheated the crap out of it a few times because she didnt understand don let it idle forever, turn the fan on, and the coolin system must be bled of air on these cars....

So Im thinking she partially cooked the module, and while Im in there, Ill change the coil too.

BTW, this is the same woman that believes parts store teenagers over me, said she thought something was wrong with first gear, and some idiot told her the car the trans came from was wrecked in first gear...it was a ditched corvette, no body damage, just twisted the frame.....

It sometimes idles itself up at a redlight, not often, not dangerous, but put a woman behind the wheel and its a major problem. I heard IAC or carbon buildup is usually the cause.

Yes Im venting and pissed at my GF, and the fact she wracked my car, an she added insult to injury saying her mothers crapwagon 1980whatever nissan that wont go over 35 without shaking like a paint mixer, one headlight, one taillight, no brakelights and no wipers is safer than my quirky but maintained Camaro...

I mention someone did a hit and run when it was parked last night and destroyed my bumper cover?

Yes, having a bad day, sorry if Im gassing on
Don't let bad times and a little ignorance get between you and your better half. It's not worth it. Let it be bro.

I live by this motto, "where am I at, where do I want to be, how am I going to get there, execute". No where in that is a stipulation of who did what before hand.

Woo saaaahh. Life can be stressful, don't let it control your actions.

Make sure when you get the new ICM, you get one that is refundable. Because if it doesn't fix your issue then you can return it. At least do an in store credit as it could be the opti and you'll need to buy one anyway.

It could very well be the ICM, being heat related and all. But, and this is coming from someone who never says "it's the Opti", it could be the Opti.....
Old 06-25-2015, 08:06 PM
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I'm smelling a Code 36. My opti was throwing codes and I had no idea till the pcm was read.
Old 06-27-2015, 05:58 PM
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My uncle's '91 Mustang GT did the same thing you're talking about. The car would start, sputter, and die pretty much immediately. Cleaning out the IAC fixed the problem. I'd start there since that doesn't really cost you any money, then follow the IAC reset procedure on shoebox's website.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#iac_reset
Good luck.
Old 06-27-2015, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by D Vineyard
ok everyone, Im new, I posted int he greetings first.

Anyway, 94 Z28, LT1, auto.

Its SC and June, really hot here

The problem started as a popping and farting, ONLY when the car was up to operating temp, ONLY during the heat of the day, stopped once while driving just as suddenly as it started. Thought, 'fuel pump', bought one from highflowfuel.com, put it in, it continued.

Changed the coolant temp sensor, ran it in the garage at night with fans off and let it get pretty warm, next day at lunch same theng.

Friday ran fine on the way home, went ahead and bought the intake air charge temp sensor, swapped it at Oreillys, simply because it just pops in, no muss no fuss, started ating worse then.

Today I changed the oil, monkeyed with the fans a bit, pulled the fuses to reset the pcm, fans were rigged on a toggle when I got it, ran fine, pulled out of my brothers street and it fell on its 'posterior' stalled, I coasted off the road, double checked wiring, car would fire up for a second then stall every time.

Got dragged home with a chain.

I thought it was the ignition module, I have seen Chevys warm up and die with a bad module before, let the car sit at least five hours for it to cool, expecting it to start and run until the module got hot, same thing, fires then stalls, pedaling doesnt help.

Changed fuel filter, no difference.

Im leaning towards either fuel pressure regulator went or ignition module and coil, just looking for some insight before I drop the cash.

I will check the fuel pressure tomorrow. I hate to think a new fuel pump Wednesday, especially a 'performance' pump, would die on Saturday.

I never had a running issue with this car until this, thought it was related to ambient air temp, meaning heat of the day. Never an issue before really hot weather.

Please note

My very sweet but very gullible old lady overheated it a couple times because she just doesnt 'get' 2 things, dont let it idle for an hour in park and when it loses coolant(from overheating) it needs 'burped'....dont get me started on her
Sounds very familiar... and is exactly how each of the three Optis I replaced, went the way of the wind.

Its a pain in the ***... but spend the money on an OEM. Be sure to take your time and do everything by the numbers, 2-3 hours and a few bills and you're back on the road for another 150K miles.
Old 06-29-2015, 06:07 PM
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ok, I drove it some more, got a little more insight into the problem.

we know the MAF is junk, currently unplugged. I changed the module, even though the old one was fine, it was OG gm and it had 230k on it

once it starts this popping and farting nonsense, if I floor it under load it clears up. Noticed a slight fuel smell, Im thinking FPR.

the starter reduction gears died suddenly yesterday, so I put it on the stretcher and dragged it home.

will a standard GM non gear reduction starter fit? I already have 2 of the HD big block ones on a shelf, hate to drop 2 bills if I have something that will work.
Old 06-29-2015, 06:13 PM
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[QUOTE=hrcslam;18855966]Don't let bad times and a little ignorance get between you and your better half. It's not worth it. Let it be bro.


I canned her btw....not over the car so much, still, sent her packing.

this car gives me much more trouble and its either getting traded off or a big block 402 crammed in it, wonder if th hood will fit?
Old 07-01-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by D Vineyard
ok, I drove it some more, got a little more insight into the problem.

we know the MAF is junk, currently unplugged. I changed the module, even though the old one was fine, it was OG gm and it had 230k on it

once it starts this popping and farting nonsense, if I floor it under load it clears up. Noticed a slight fuel smell, Im thinking FPR.

the starter reduction gears died suddenly yesterday, so I put it on the stretcher and dragged it home.

will a standard GM non gear reduction starter fit? I already have 2 of the HD big block ones on a shelf, hate to drop 2 bills if I have something that will work.
I think only the gear reduction starters will work. I broke my gears too, but was able to find another LT1 in the junk yard. You only need the gears, not the whole thing.

Originally Posted by D Vineyard
[
I canned her btw....not over the car so much, still, sent her packing.

this car gives me much more trouble and its either getting traded off or a big block 402 crammed in it, wonder if th hood will fit?
Sorry to hear that bro.

The hood? ****, the firewall! LOL. The carb for the 402 will be hitting under the windshield. Not sure that engine will fit between the struts either.

I'm with the other guys here, it's probably the opti. Are any of your timing cover seals leaking?



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