Shownomercy, 1.5-1.6 60ft is awesome. I was looking at those Comp Engin 3 ways. They prob wouldn't last many miles on the street? I thought I had good tires with the bf goodrich comp 2's but apparently not. Just got my umi panhard bar in the mail. Should help not having a bent bar!

 

I mean, mine are still going after close to 4 years? I don't drive mine that much though.

Get a set of cheap stock wheels and toss some bias ply on em, learn how to do a burnout and let her eat.

 

OP, you never answered my question in the other thread if these used tires you have are the all season version or the summer version....inquiring minds want to know! All season tires have rock hard rubber compounds better suited to mini vans, Camrys, and Prius type vehicles...

I agree with others that you're wasting money on the wrong area if that's true, they will likely never hook up properly even with full suspension and you'll still be running 14's when you could have simply got DRs and ran low 13s for a lot less $$. I've bought every single suspension piece you mention; yet none of them made as big a difference as DRs.

 

I had a local car that has gone as fast as mid 1.3X 60ft with the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks so do they do work pretty well. Now the car had other good suspension components on it which was a big reason they worked so well too. I also had another local guy using DeCarbon front shocks and Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks along with our BMR lowering springs and it cut 1.4X 60ft time pretty consistently. Here is an actual link to the car and time slips:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/10-second...-01-134-a.html

Both of these cars didn't see a whole lot of street time as they were more weekend/fun cars so I can't really comment on the life longevity of the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks.

For the money and performance the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks are hard to beat at the track for a super budget shock.

Those tires are mediocre at best so if you can get a decent set of drag radials they will definitely improve you times and consistency. You really probably won't notice too much difference from changing out the panhard bar even with your factory one being bent but your rear end will be centered under the car much better.

 

Different chassis but I use Monroe Severe Service front and Bilstein rear for 1.5 60fts.

Bilsteins are OLD and still work great.

 

Suddenly some posters agree with what I said and then you listen? Get out from under your ignorant rock.

A bent panhard bar will turn your rear out of alignment.

 

You also never answered the question of how you are launching, if you are launching too hard now, all adding traction is going to do is blow the 10 bolt.

 

This is how we learn.

#problem?

 

Sweetbmxrider, again your comments are not helpful. Im not ignorant as you stated or a fool you punk!

Thanks for the help you guys. My tires are okay. They are a softer rubber for summer. They don't squeal and chirp loudly like a harder tire. They hook up much better than my old all seasons. Thanks for the shock info. I was cutting 2.2 with my old bald tires in the spring. With these tires, a non broken panhard bar LCA's, relo brackets and new shocks I bet I get at least a 1.9.-2.1 next spring. I am def new to drag racing. Slicks are out of the question as I only dragrace 2-3 times a year.

 

He could run the koni 30 1265Sport shocks, 112 a piece on amazon. Adjustable and cheap. Best i had was 1.7s on my bilstien shocks that were brandy new

 

Bilsteins are more of a "handling shock" and the whole setup matters.

 

Bufmat, I will read your advice and try to apply it this spring. Last time I ran I just had it around 1800rpm and let off the clutch slowly when the last yellow light lit, once the clutch was out all the way I floored it. Lots of practice I need! My lca's just arrived in the mail today. Between lca's, a new unbent panhard bar, relo's for the panhard bar and some practice I should go from a 14.2 last spring to at least a 14.0. Also doing headers, tune, ewp going on this winter too. Should get me 13.5-13.7 I hope. Lloyd is on hold because of $ issues. I may get spare rims and drag radials like mentioned if my tires go up in flames come spring. My e.t. goals are low because im a rookie dragracer! I want to post a pic of my f..d up panhard bar if you guys can tell me how to go about it. I also want to post drag racing videos so you can see my runs. Those comp 3 ways are tempting for the price but maybe i should wait for konis or bilstein once I have more money.

 

Relo brackets for the panhard eh? That should be something.

I would def recommend grabbing a set of stock ugly *** wheels for cheap, toss the tallest bias ply on em, and learn how to launch a manual car.

The comp cheapos may be a easy enough to get going, but I would say with a M6 car you will def want quality DA shocks in the rear... QA1, strange, afco etc. (Although, if you ask, sweetbmx may sell you a pair of compE for a good price)

 

Like snm said, bias ply on stock salad shooters, but I'd stay with 26x10.5s with the stock gears or you won't make it to 4th. If you are dragging it out to 6300 like you should you would shift around 100 into 4th with 26s, 28s and you may not hit 4th. Bias ply is best to reduce shock on the 10 bolt. Full boltons and power shifting and you'll trap 110 with room to grow with a cam.

 

Didn't you "cut" like a 2.8 60'? And you're lipping off to me? I told your dumbass to get tires and practice and you continue to throw money at anything but. Good luck.

 

To be fair you did initiate the initial lip that caused him to lip and then you to lip back.

 

Regardless of the name calling I still need shocks, because mine are blown out 95000 mile stockers. I seen the Bilstein HD's on sale for $82 a piece shipped. Wouldn't these be a nice compromise between awesome handling/longevity and enough stiffness to handle the occasional drag pass? That seems like a good price considering the sketchy kyb's cost that much.

 

Get the Bilsteins. I've had had QA1s, Decarbons, KYBs(horrible), Konis(too stiff(for me)) and Bilsteins on my car over the last 19 years. For me I think the Bilsteins offer a nice mildly firm ride that works well on the street and taking corners and on the strip. I love them!

 

Just ordered the Bilstein's for $82 a piece. Between the shocks, LCA's, Relo brackets, panhard bar I hope it elimates my wheel hop and rides okay on the street. I'm sure come spring stickier tires will be in order. Adding headers, y pipe, ewp, and tune also. Bye bye 14.2 and hello mid 13s hopefully.

 

You will notice a HUGE difference with just the bilsteins, but take a look at your outer tie rod ends, control arm bushings, sway bar end links and ball joints while you are in there, they are probably shot and torn and need replaced as well. Also consider a 23mm rear sway bar from a 3rd gen formula for a cheap $20 drag bar.