Bilstein vs kyb vs etc....
Shownomercy, 1.5-1.6 60ft is awesome. I was looking at those Comp Engin 3 ways. They prob wouldn't last many miles on the street? I thought I had good tires with the bf goodrich comp 2's but apparently not. Just got my umi panhard bar in the mail. Should help not having a bent bar!
I mean, mine are still going after close to 4 years? I don't drive mine that much though.
Get a set of cheap stock wheels and toss some bias ply on em, learn how to do a burnout and let her eat.
Get a set of cheap stock wheels and toss some bias ply on em, learn how to do a burnout and let her eat.
OP, you never answered my question in the other thread if these used tires you have are the all season version or the summer version....inquiring minds want to know! 
All season tires have rock hard rubber compounds better suited to mini vans, Camrys, and Prius type vehicles...
I agree with others that you're wasting money on the wrong area if that's true, they will likely never hook up properly even with full suspension and you'll still be running 14's when you could have simply got DRs and ran low 13s for a lot less $$. I've bought every single suspension piece you mention; yet none of them made as big a difference as DRs.
All season tires have rock hard rubber compounds better suited to mini vans, Camrys, and Prius type vehicles...I agree with others that you're wasting money on the wrong area if that's true, they will likely never hook up properly even with full suspension and you'll still be running 14's when you could have simply got DRs and ran low 13s for a lot less $$. I've bought every single suspension piece you mention; yet none of them made as big a difference as DRs.
Last edited by ahritchie; Oct 23, 2015 at 02:42 PM.
Shownomercy, 1.5-1.6 60ft is awesome. I was looking at those Comp Engin 3 ways. They prob wouldn't last many miles on the street? I thought I had good tires with the bf goodrich comp 2's but apparently not. Just got my umi panhard bar in the mail. Should help not having a bent bar!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/10-second...-01-134-a.html
Both of these cars didn't see a whole lot of street time as they were more weekend/fun cars so I can't really comment on the life longevity of the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks.
For the money and performance the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks are hard to beat at the track for a super budget shock.
Those tires are mediocre at best so if you can get a decent set of drag radials they will definitely improve you times and consistency. You really probably won't notice too much difference from changing out the panhard bar even with your factory one being bent but your rear end will be centered under the car much better.
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
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Verdad Gallardo Sweetbmxrider, again your comments are not helpful. Im not ignorant as you stated or a fool you punk!
Thanks for the help you guys. My tires are okay. They are a softer rubber for summer. They don't squeal and chirp loudly like a harder tire. They hook up much better than my old all seasons. Thanks for the shock info. I was cutting 2.2 with my old bald tires in the spring. With these tires, a non broken panhard bar LCA's, relo brackets and new shocks I bet I get at least a 1.9.-2.1 next spring. I am def new to drag racing. Slicks are out of the question as I only dragrace 2-3 times a year.
Thanks for the help you guys. My tires are okay. They are a softer rubber for summer. They don't squeal and chirp loudly like a harder tire. They hook up much better than my old all seasons. Thanks for the shock info. I was cutting 2.2 with my old bald tires in the spring. With these tires, a non broken panhard bar LCA's, relo brackets and new shocks I bet I get at least a 1.9.-2.1 next spring. I am def new to drag racing. Slicks are out of the question as I only dragrace 2-3 times a year.
Bufmat, I will read your advice and try to apply it this spring. Last time I ran I just had it around 1800rpm and let off the clutch slowly when the last yellow light lit, once the clutch was out all the way I floored it. Lots of practice I need! My lca's just arrived in the mail today. Between lca's, a new unbent panhard bar, relo's for the panhard bar and some practice I should go from a 14.2 last spring to at least a 14.0. Also doing headers, tune, ewp going on this winter too. Should get me 13.5-13.7 I hope. Lloyd is on hold because of $ issues. I may get spare rims and drag radials like mentioned if my tires go up in flames come spring. My e.t. goals are low because im a rookie dragracer! I want to post a pic of my f..d up panhard bar if you guys can tell me how to go about it. I also want to post drag racing videos so you can see my runs. Those comp 3 ways are tempting for the price but maybe i should wait for konis or bilstein once I have more money.
Bufmat, I will read your advice and try to apply it this spring. Last time I ran I just had it around 1800rpm and let off the clutch slowly when the last yellow light lit, once the clutch was out all the way I floored it. Lots of practice I need! My lca's just arrived in the mail today. Between lca's, a new unbent panhard bar, relo's for the panhard bar and some practice I should go from a 14.2 last spring to at least a 14.0. Also doing headers, tune, ewp going on this winter too. Should get me 13.5-13.7 I hope. Lloyd is on hold because of $ issues. I may get spare rims and drag radials like mentioned if my tires go up in flames come spring. My e.t. goals are low because im a rookie dragracer! I want to post a pic of my f..d up panhard bar if you guys can tell me how to go about it. I also want to post drag racing videos so you can see my runs. Those comp 3 ways are tempting for the price but maybe i should wait for konis or bilstein once I have more money.
I would def recommend grabbing a set of stock ugly *** wheels for cheap, toss the tallest bias ply on em, and learn how to launch a manual car.
The comp cheapos may be a easy enough to get going, but I would say with a M6 car you will def want quality DA shocks in the rear... QA1, strange, afco etc. (Although, if you ask, sweetbmx may sell you a pair of compE for a good price)
Like snm said, bias ply on stock salad shooters, but I'd stay with 26x10.5s with the stock gears or you won't make it to 4th. If you are dragging it out to 6300 like you should you would shift around 100 into 4th with 26s, 28s and you may not hit 4th. Bias ply is best to reduce shock on the 10 bolt. Full boltons and power shifting and you'll trap 110 with room to grow with a cam.
Sweetbmxrider, again your comments are not helpful. Im not ignorant as you stated or a fool you punk!
Thanks for the help you guys. My tires are okay. They are a softer rubber for summer. They don't squeal and chirp loudly like a harder tire. They hook up much better than my old all seasons. Thanks for the shock info. I was cutting 2.2 with my old bald tires in the spring. With these tires, a non broken panhard bar LCA's, relo brackets and new shocks I bet I get at least a 1.9.-2.1 next spring. I am def new to drag racing. Slicks are out of the question as I only dragrace 2-3 times a year.
Thanks for the help you guys. My tires are okay. They are a softer rubber for summer. They don't squeal and chirp loudly like a harder tire. They hook up much better than my old all seasons. Thanks for the shock info. I was cutting 2.2 with my old bald tires in the spring. With these tires, a non broken panhard bar LCA's, relo brackets and new shocks I bet I get at least a 1.9.-2.1 next spring. I am def new to drag racing. Slicks are out of the question as I only dragrace 2-3 times a year.
Regardless of the name calling I still need shocks, because mine are blown out 95000 mile stockers. I seen the Bilstein HD's on sale for $82 a piece shipped. Wouldn't these be a nice compromise between awesome handling/longevity and enough stiffness to handle the occasional drag pass? That seems like a good price considering the sketchy kyb's cost that much.
Regardless of the name calling I still need shocks, because mine are blown out 95000 mile stockers. I seen the Bilstein HD's on sale for $82 a piece shipped. Wouldn't these be a nice compromise between awesome handling/longevity and enough stiffness to handle the occasional drag pass? That seems like a good price considering the sketchy kyb's cost that much.
Just ordered the Bilstein's for $82 a piece. Between the shocks, LCA's, Relo brackets, panhard bar I hope it elimates my wheel hop and rides okay on the street. I'm sure come spring stickier tires will be in order. Adding headers, y pipe, ewp, and tune also. Bye bye 14.2 and hello mid 13s hopefully.
You will notice a HUGE difference with just the bilsteins, but take a look at your outer tie rod ends, control arm bushings, sway bar end links and ball joints while you are in there, they are probably shot and torn and need replaced as well. Also consider a 23mm rear sway bar from a 3rd gen formula for a cheap $20 drag bar.
