LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Alternator were routing

Old Jan 11, 2016 | 02:12 AM
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Default Alternator were routing

After finally getting the car running, it started dying shortly after startup. I found the new battery was very low on voltage.

The terminal labeled "batt" is routed to the positive power distribution block. I also have a ground wire going from a mounting bolt to the negative battery terminal. Is this right? Should I instead route the positive cable directly to the battery if possible?

Also, can I test the alternator with a volt meter by touching the positive lead to that "batt" terminal on the alternator and negative to a ground to check for 14V?

Last edited by Snorkelface; Jan 11, 2016 at 02:54 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 03:26 PM
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So a update to this, a multimeter on the batt stud on the alternator, and it was putting out 14V, but it's not making it to the battery. Is it wired up wrong?

Originally Posted by Snorkelface
After finally getting the car running, it started dying shortly after startup. I found the new battery was very low on voltage.

The terminal labeled "batt" is routed to the positive power distribution block. I also have a ground wire going from a mounting bolt to the negative battery terminal. Is this right? Should I instead route the positive cable directly to the battery if possible?

Also, can I test the alternator with a volt meter by touching the positive lead to that "batt" terminal on the alternator and negative to a ground to check for 14V?
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkelface
So a update to this, a multimeter on the batt stud on the alternator, and it was putting out 14V, but it's not making it to the battery. Is it wired up wrong?
You have a break in the charging wire between the battery and alternator. Verify a good ground from the alternator case to the battery negative. Check for continuity between the battery terminal (not volatge) of the alternator and battery. Also check voltage at the signal wire that comes from the pcm to the bottom of the alternator.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 06:37 PM
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Okay, I'll check how to check for continuity, and look for another spot to ground off of other than the grounding bolt.

Also, just to verify, when then car is running, I should see 14V at the positive battery terminal as well, correct?
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkelface
Okay, I'll check how to check for continuity, and look for another spot to ground off of other than the grounding bolt.

Also, just to verify, when then car is running, I should see 14V at the positive battery terminal as well, correct?
Close to it. It should read higher than with the car off.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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Your positive battery cable should go to 3 places, starter, alternator, red junction block.
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Old Jan 12, 2016 | 11:50 AM
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The connection from the alternator how mine is goes to the junction box. So, I should reroute that going directly to the positive terminal on the battery then?

Originally Posted by shbox
Your positive battery cable should go to 3 places, starter, alternator, red junction block.
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Old Jan 12, 2016 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkelface
The connection from the alternator how mine is goes to the junction box. So, I should reroute that going directly to the positive terminal on the battery then?
That's the way it came from the factory. Better to have it this way. Less connections.
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Old Jan 12, 2016 | 11:22 PM
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Gotcha. I wasn't sure if the shop changed that. Thanks again!

Originally Posted by shbox
That's the way it came from the factory. Better to have it this way. Less connections.

Last edited by Snorkelface; Jan 13, 2016 at 09:18 AM.
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