alnukem

Hi, I just recently ended up with a Stock 96 SLP Comp T/A with a M6, 3.42 Gears, SLP 2OTL Exhaust & 135K on the clock. It was sitting for 10 years not running. I had to change Oil, Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Starter & Gas Tank. It seems to run Pretty Good now. I still need to change all the other fluids. I think I'm going to buy a set of the LPP Headers, Y Pipe & get a in-person Tune. Is there anything else I should consider at this time? Thanks & this is my First F-Body!

BTC

If it sat that long, I would be surprised if your injectors don't need replacement or some TLC. That may depend on whether the car was prepped for storage. Mine was not, and it only sat for 6-7 years before I pulled it out of storage and tried to get it running. I had to replace all of my injectors, along with most everything else on the car it seemed. My distributor was also shot, but the water pump had been weeping on it before it went into storage.

Are you able to drive your car?

HellTeeOne

Sounds like you've a good start. I'd keep the 2OTL exhaust.

For a driver, I'd consider practical minded mods that you'll appreciate every time you drive the car.

If it hasn't been done yet on a car of this age, a new set of shocks and springs will make a huge difference in the way it drive and handles. Stranoparts.com sells an excellent package with Bilsteins and tuned Eibachs for around $700. If it needs them, this is also a great time to put on a new set of tires and have the car aligned.

The LS1 or C5 front brakes are an excellent bolt-on upgrade when it comes time to do brakes.

After that, you're into the motor if you want to go faster.

alnukem

It's sitting at the Inspection joint, waiting for him to give me a blessing or not. It does run a "little" rough, but not terrible. The Pump & Distributor are OK for now. I was going to put something like lucas in the fuel & drive the snout out of it till I have to get it smogged in 10 days.

alnukem

Actually, we must think the same. I was going to do Konis & have rear "Best Brake" Rotors on my wish list & Braided Steel hoses on the way. I am going to see if I can get LS1 Spindles from my friend at the boneyard & was going to check the weight of the Baer Eradispeed 2 piece rotors, then make my final decision. Anything else I should think about enginewise?

HellTeeOne

Konis are good. Do a set of springs at the same time to get the most out of it. Car will both ride and handle much better.

Steel brake lines are good. The rear brakes on these cars seldom need upgrading for street applications, focus on the front. The most cost-effective front upgrades are the stock rotors and calipers off either a LS1 f-body or a C5 Corvette with a set of quality pads. Either will make a dramatic difference in stopping performance.

As for the engine, I'd do a new set of plugs and wires while you're in there swapping headers, but after that you'd be doing internal mods if you want to go much faster. How exactly to go about that depends on several factors, such as the condition of your existing shortblock and driveline, your budget, etc.

BALLSS

OP

aside from bringing the car back to "normal" service (fluids, belts, hoses, plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel filter, etc) cars that sit that long can have items "clogged" or contaminated.

yeah some form of "additive" you pour in tank to clean fuel system can't hurt. Not sure how well those actually work. you can send injectors out to be serviced. I used cruzinperformance.com. IIRC Rich there charges around $10-$12 per injector and provides a before/after flow chart if you feel one or more of your injectors has issues. You replaced tank so that suggests old fuel contamination was a issue

125k on stock motor...your stock valve springs are very likely "tired". A new set of valve springs and 1:6 RR would certainly allow more RPM (springs will)

alnukem

Thanks for the help. The tank was replaced because of scaly rust. Amazingly there is not very much other damage, just a rusty rearend, front LCA's & the shield for the tank needs repainted. I haven't gotten in to the front of the engine yet, but have changed plugs, wires & fuel filter. Next up is brake fluid, Tranny & diff fluids. Then I'll jump into Cap, Rotor, Antifreeze, belts & maybe Timing Chain & Valve springs. Lots of Tinkering!

BALLSS

your timing chain should be fine..although if replacing the cam you can put in a new stock one

azmarkus

Unless I'm missing/misunderstanding, the Comp TA is a pretty rare bird (no pun intended); I might think twice before hacking into it. If you're looking to mod an LT1, there are plenty to pick up cheap and go to town on.

Cajun ELESS-ONE

i would focus on getting it running perfect before modding it. typical maintenance would be a must. a car sitting that long, gas can rot and really mess stuff up. cleaning the whole fuel system is a good idea. test the fuel pressure. id bet its alittle low. my stock pump with 70k miles on it was at 30 psi and my car ran fine. it would have been a matter of time before it would have went out. 43 psi at idle is spec. i wouldnt bother with the timing chain. once the maintenance is done then a nice set of long tubes, motor mounts, ypipe, springs (check alex parts .com great prices) and rockers. do not remove that 2otl catback. mine sounds great with my full exhaust. then some 4.10 gears, clutch, and a tune. you would have a strong running car

Nickster 7

If you like waiting weeks for parts to show up and don't want to have any contact with the company you order them from, buy headers from LPP. I purchased mine over a month ago, and I'm still fighting to get all of the parts I was promised.

EDIT: I got everything I paid for within a month, so if you aren't in a hurry, get LPP. The parts are great quality for the price, and everything will show up. I may have ordered at a bad time of the year.

alnukem

Thanks guys. The fuel system is all up to snuff with the exception of the fuel injectors, maybe I'll have them cleaned & flowed. I am going to concentrate on the maintenance stuff now. It's hard for me to keep anything stock! Thanks again.

alnukem

Would the LT4 Valve Spring kit be the way to go?

BTC

I would also keep the 2OTL exhaust.

My gas tank was also badly rusted and had to be replaced. What a huge pain to change that thing, as well as the fuel pump, which had to be done twice.

I never knew just how hard it was on a car for them to just sit around until my Camaro sat for 6-7 years. It was in a garage and it was fubar when I pulled it out. It was actually kind of fun getting it running again, but it wasn't cheap.

shbox.com has contact info for getting OEM parts at reasonable prices.

Cajun ELESS-ONE

if you are gonna keep your stock rockers and stock cam then yes they are fine. if you are gonna do 1.6 rr then they will be maxed out. wouldnt risk breaking a spring.

BALLSS

not really. it would be barely, if any, "upgrade" as those springs were designed for lighter LT4 valves.

Good reports on the Alex spring kit but I have never used it.
Crane 10309 kit or the Lunati spring kit would be good.

After using Comp bee hive (918"s) I would not do that again

Jaxem

iTrader: (3)

Currently running the Alex springs, only a thousand or two on them, but working great so far

alnukem

I started it up yesterday.....ran like crap, so I ordered a new set of Bosch III's. I think this might be a really good thing.

alnukem

Just a update.....Replaced the injectors with the Bosch III's, it started up fine & runs smooth & passed the emissions test after about 15 miles. It also passed the State Safety Inspection. I changed out the 18 year old runflats I had on it with a set of factory size toyo's I had laying around, what a difference in grip & acceleration! Now to change Shocks/Rotors/Pads & the balance of the Fluids. It runs pretty good! Thanks for your help.