Michael Covarrubias

I have a stock 94 lt1 Camaro with headers and exhaust i recently got the heads done . And I was wondering if I could run a lunati 231/239 cam?

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Yup. Should work, Just make sure the valvetrain can take it.

Also need a stall if it's an auto

Michael Covarrubias

Thanks man

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you upgrade springs and you'll be good. Also good time to check the timing chain, push rods, and lifters for any abnormal wear.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

You got the heads "done". What does that mean?
Did you get them ported?
Were they milled?
Or were they 'just' cleaned up and rebuilt?

A 231*/239* cam is a lot of cam for a stock displacement LT1....especially with stock compression.

Bigger ain't always better........

KW

96LT1Z

The only regret you'll ever have after doing a cam swap is wishing you would've gone bigger. No matter what.

ACE1252

Ditto.

hrcslam

This.

hrcslam

I'm fully built with a similar cam that the OP wants. I wish I went smaller...... Don't get me wrong the cam is great, got tons of power out of my build, but with that cam (I'm more advanced than his though I think) and my ported heads I have to rev to 7k to get everything out of it. My hyd rollers and 3/8 SA RR don't like 7k, I'm rev limited to 6800 (and thats pushing it) now and know I'm not using all of the cam. It'll be even worse with unported heads and less cam advance.

BALLSS

OP

The Lunati cam 219/227 would work better with your 350 ci if you are staying with the Lunati stuff

Get their 73925K5 spring kit

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's too much cam for stock cubes, heads, and compression IMO, it's gonna drive like crap on the street most likely and be a dog down low.....I run this exact cam in my 383 with ported heads and 11.4 CR, 4.10's with 6spd, it's real nice on a 383 with ported heads however!

^ Agreed, I had that cam with my old cam only setup, not bad on the street but still sounded quite choppy.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Look for a cam with at least 10 degrees less duration, You'll be happy you did..

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

To give some perspective, I shift around 6600-6700 RPM on with a forged 383....on a stock 350 probably gonna need more like a 6900+ RPM shift point to get the most out of it as previously mentioned.....very risky on stock rod bolts (ask how I know ); not even mentioning drivability concerns loss and of low end torque.

Also you say stock other than headers exhaust....CAI and a tune would be mandatory at least as well. 3.73 Minimum or 4.10 gears would also be recommended AND a stall if auto or it will really drive like crap.

Just throwing a big cam in stock LT1 is a half-baked idea basically.

HellTeeOne

With stock compression and displacement, it's a good idea to keep the intake duration in the mid 220s at the most.

That 231/239 cam would probably prove peaky and thin on grunt down low in a stock longblock. You'd also have to rev it to the moon to get the most out of it, courting the likelihood of rod bolt or bearing failure in a stock engine. At the minimum I'd want ported heads and a full point or so more compression than stock to run that cam.
In my car I have ported heads and more compression and am still running less duration than that on both sides.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Just to reinforce what's already been said, I shifted my 228/234-cammed 350 CID motor at 7000-7100 rpm to get the BEST performance out of it.
You want quite a bit less for a NON-REBUILT stock bottom.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I just figured it's a smaller cam (duration wise) then cc306 and gm847. People ran those on stock heads and long blocks and didn't leave much on the table in terms of being over cammed. A smaller cam may have run better for sure.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Just because it technically can be done doesn't mean it's a good idea at all. Kinda like 1.7 RR's

I'm not sure what you mean by "leave much on the table in terms of being over cammed". In the real world, I'd be willing to bet a properly specced combo with a smaller cam will be faster that a slapped together combo with little supporting mods to run a big cam SAFELY; not to mention way more fun to drive than a bucking, no low end, peaky engine that's on the ragged edge of reliability.

hrcslam

I'd love to throw a stroker under my build. The drivability of my set up is good, but I'd take a few hundred RPM drop up top and a 20-30hp increase, with even better low end torque! I just can't convince my self to pony up for the 383 rotating assembly + machine work. I'm at 11.8:1 right now too, so my SCR with a 383 will go up too. My low end torque right now is good enough to climb a 7% grade in 6th at 70 nice and smooth, it'll even accelerate extremely slowly up that hill in 6th.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

That's exactly what I meant lol. A properly sized cam will probably run faster if your at the track every week. Those cams sounded awesome at idle and made ok power for the street, on a dyno they are probably 20hp? under what a proper cam would get. Which is what I meant by leaving power on the table by being over cammed. I had a cc306 in a stock long block, it wasn't as friendly as others but it was livable. Daily drove it.

Guy wanted to know if he could run it, simple answer is yes, people have run bigger. Best idea? No.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Correct people have run bigger (usually with much more supporting mods), but I'm taking it one step further for the OPs best interests....to prevent and educate about noob mistakes and questionable choices like Edelbrock manifolds, 58mm TBs on stock LT1s, flowmasters, donkey dick cams in stock engines, ect.



Do it...mine has just as good drivability as it did with the little 219/227 cam when I was cam only. I can poke along going 45mph in 6th with 4.10s with no issues.