Lt1 heads and cam
Yeah LE2's are a great option. Most people on this board go with Lloyd Elliott and Advanced Induction which are both excellent options.
I've had LE2's on my WS6 now for about 8 years. My car is stock bottom end with a 224/230 cam. My car runs 11.40-11.50's at 118-119mph in the heat with an automatic and very minimal weight reduction. The car gets ignored these days but I think if I got her out I could hit bottom 11's in good fall air with a couple tweaks/additions to the car. I'm more than pleased.
I've had LE2's on my WS6 now for about 8 years. My car is stock bottom end with a 224/230 cam. My car runs 11.40-11.50's at 118-119mph in the heat with an automatic and very minimal weight reduction. The car gets ignored these days but I think if I got her out I could hit bottom 11's in good fall air with a couple tweaks/additions to the car. I'm more than pleased.
I did. I have 30# Ford SVO "red top" injectors and a Racetronix 255 fuel pump. The injectors were necessary, not sure if the fuel pump was but I did it for peace of mind. I also threw on a 58mm TB and had the intake manifold ported because I figured why not. I think I have the Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Mag NSA 1.6 RR's, Trickflow guide plates, Trickflow pushrods, ARP studs, etc. The supporting mods/necessities is what really adds cost to an otherwise simple and relatively reasonable cost heads/cam swap. IMO it's worth it tho.
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OP
LE does great H/C packages and his customer service communication is very good
Beyond the H/C package itself there are other things that "support" the new package:
PCM tune
.026 thick head gasket
1:6 RR NSA (good idea to go with 7/16" RR studs also)
hardened push rods (measure when heads are on)
guide plates
30 lb injectors (Ford SVO)
255 GPH fuel pump
higher stall TC (if automatic car)
lower rear gears (3:73 auto, 4:10 T56)
LE does great H/C packages and his customer service communication is very good
Beyond the H/C package itself there are other things that "support" the new package:
PCM tune
.026 thick head gasket
1:6 RR NSA (good idea to go with 7/16" RR studs also)
hardened push rods (measure when heads are on)
guide plates
30 lb injectors (Ford SVO)
255 GPH fuel pump
higher stall TC (if automatic car)
lower rear gears (3:73 auto, 4:10 T56)
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Also most go with a NSA (non self aligning) RR and use guide plates and hardened push rods because at higher than stock RMP's SA (self aligning) RR "can" pop off the valve tip. Also on many aftermarket springs the retainers sometimes interfere with the SA tabs of SA RR.
Lloyd will spec & install the valve springs. You install your RR once heads are on the car. If getting NSA RR and getting guide plates you want to get the RR studs made by ARP for guide plates. ARP makes studs for both guide plate and non guide plate use.
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If the OP is choosing the ISKY guide plates though, best to install those when doing RR as they allow L-R alignment (better IMHO) so the RR studs should not be installed by Lloyd.
The studs just screw in and TQ to 50 ft lbs using thread sealer on them
OP can also just choose to leave the stock studs on head and go with SA 1:6 RR. But again OP needs to install the RR......unless he is shipping his motor to lloyd.
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So here's an update. I happen to run across a guy selling a 93 firebird with le2 heads and cam with a ported intake and 58mm throttle body. I was able to pick the car up reasonable price. The engine definitely can use some tuning to it but everything else looks good
Swap the heads/intake (and the fuel rails) on the cars so that the '96 has the LE hardware.
Get a new cam and appropriate valve springs from LE for the '96.
And then.....if you're not too attached to the '93.....sell it.....for a reasonable price.
It's what I'd do, anyway.
KW
Get a new cam and appropriate valve springs from LE for the '96.
And then.....if you're not too attached to the '93.....sell it.....for a reasonable price.
It's what I'd do, anyway.
KW