LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Lt1 heads and cam

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Old 07-21-2016, 04:49 PM
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Default Lt1 heads and cam

New to this forum. Looking at putting different heads and cam on my 96 firebird. From my research seems like le2 heads would be nice. Any thoughts suggestions?
Old 07-22-2016, 10:00 AM
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One of the best options out there
Old 07-22-2016, 11:57 AM
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Yeah LE2's are a great option. Most people on this board go with Lloyd Elliott and Advanced Induction which are both excellent options.

I've had LE2's on my WS6 now for about 8 years. My car is stock bottom end with a 224/230 cam. My car runs 11.40-11.50's at 118-119mph in the heat with an automatic and very minimal weight reduction. The car gets ignored these days but I think if I got her out I could hit bottom 11's in good fall air with a couple tweaks/additions to the car. I'm more than pleased.
Old 07-22-2016, 12:14 PM
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I'm looking to just have something fun to take out on the streets. You know gives you a chubby starting it up kinda thing.
Old 07-22-2016, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by adurell
I'm looking to just have something fun to take out on the streets. You know gives you a chubby starting it up kinda thing.
Heads and cam should take care of that for ya.
Old 07-22-2016, 01:04 PM
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Did you do anything else like injectors ect?
Old 07-22-2016, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by adurell
Did you do anything else like injectors ect?
I did. I have 30# Ford SVO "red top" injectors and a Racetronix 255 fuel pump. The injectors were necessary, not sure if the fuel pump was but I did it for peace of mind. I also threw on a 58mm TB and had the intake manifold ported because I figured why not. I think I have the Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Mag NSA 1.6 RR's, Trickflow guide plates, Trickflow pushrods, ARP studs, etc. The supporting mods/necessities is what really adds cost to an otherwise simple and relatively reasonable cost heads/cam swap. IMO it's worth it tho.
Old 07-22-2016, 01:54 PM
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That's sounds awesome. I bet it's fun to drive. Thank you very much higher for your input
Old 07-23-2016, 03:30 PM
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Stealth is spot on. The small things are what really makes heads/cam kit shine. Attention to detail goes a long way!
Old 07-23-2016, 04:02 PM
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OP

LE does great H/C packages and his customer service communication is very good

Beyond the H/C package itself there are other things that "support" the new package:

PCM tune
.026 thick head gasket
1:6 RR NSA (good idea to go with 7/16" RR studs also)
hardened push rods (measure when heads are on)
guide plates
30 lb injectors (Ford SVO)
255 GPH fuel pump
higher stall TC (if automatic car)
lower rear gears (3:73 auto, 4:10 T56)
Old 07-24-2016, 08:46 AM
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Thank you for all the info. I'm trying to get numbers together for everything need to figure out what to budget for. Hopefully this summer I can make it happen.
Old 07-24-2016, 09:27 AM
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So ****** when you say it would be a good idea to go to 7/16 RR studs is the something Lloyd Elliott will do when ordering heads do you know?
Old 07-24-2016, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by adurell
So ****** when you say it would be a good idea to go to 7/16 RR studs is the something Lloyd Elliott will do when ordering heads do you know?
Lloyds work wouldn't involve the RR studs. Stock are 3/8". They just screw into the head. What many do when going to RR is get 7?16" RR studs (to reduce flex in the RR stud) since the cost of 7/16" RR are the same as 3/8"

Also most go with a NSA (non self aligning) RR and use guide plates and hardened push rods because at higher than stock RMP's SA (self aligning) RR "can" pop off the valve tip. Also on many aftermarket springs the retainers sometimes interfere with the SA tabs of SA RR.

Lloyd will spec & install the valve springs. You install your RR once heads are on the car. If getting NSA RR and getting guide plates you want to get the RR studs made by ARP for guide plates. ARP makes studs for both guide plate and non guide plate use.
Old 07-24-2016, 06:32 PM
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Ok I understand, I thought the head had to be redrilled and tapped. Thank you very much.
Old 07-24-2016, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by adurell
Ok I understand, I thought the head had to be redrilled and tapped. Thank you very much.
When you get with Lloyd about the heads, also ask him to do the studs.....and inquire about having him install the guide plates and rocker arms as well.

Have fun!

KW
Old 07-24-2016, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
When you get with Lloyd about the heads, also ask him to do the studs.....and inquire about having him install the guide plates and rocker arms as well.

Have fun!

KW
Thank you for your input
Old 07-25-2016, 08:45 AM
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LE2 is always the best choice, I'm very happy with LE2 nice set up

Old 07-25-2016, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
When you get with Lloyd about the heads, also ask him to do the studs.....and inquire about having him install the guide plates and rocker arms as well.

Have fun!

KW
....ah Lloyd can install the studs & guide plates....but OP will need to install the RR

If the OP is choosing the ISKY guide plates though, best to install those when doing RR as they allow L-R alignment (better IMHO) so the RR studs should not be installed by Lloyd.

The studs just screw in and TQ to 50 ft lbs using thread sealer on them

OP can also just choose to leave the stock studs on head and go with SA 1:6 RR. But again OP needs to install the RR......unless he is shipping his motor to lloyd.
Old 07-28-2016, 12:13 PM
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So here's an update. I happen to run across a guy selling a 93 firebird with le2 heads and cam with a ported intake and 58mm throttle body. I was able to pick the car up reasonable price. The engine definitely can use some tuning to it but everything else looks good
Old 07-28-2016, 10:30 PM
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Swap the heads/intake (and the fuel rails) on the cars so that the '96 has the LE hardware.

Get a new cam and appropriate valve springs from LE for the '96.

And then.....if you're not too attached to the '93.....sell it.....for a reasonable price.

It's what I'd do, anyway.

KW


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