water pump or ???????
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
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water pump or ??????? I have 1996 LT1 in my car and i think i have a problem with the water pump. When i completely fill my radiator, i see coolant leak from the water pump? After i loose some coolant and then the leak stop.
The funny thing is if i start the car, i dont see any leaks but if i add more coolant to the radiator, it starts to leak and then stop after it hits a point? So what is my problem?
Is it air pressure and i need to bleed?
Please let me know
The funny thing is if i start the car, i dont see any leaks but if i add more coolant to the radiator, it starts to leak and then stop after it hits a point? So what is my problem?
Is it air pressure and i need to bleed?
Please let me know
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: "U aint frum round hur ar ya boy" Texas.
I had the same issue in my 97. it would leak ever so much and I kept having to add fluid. when I pulled the pump off I couldn't find anything wrong with it so I first thought im chasing the wrong problem. installed the new one and haven't had a problem since. I believe I went with ac delco as well. reallllly need to start to keep a list of the parts im using.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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1978
Get a "new" vs "rebuilt WP
Buy the FelPro front timing cover gasket seal kit. Replace WP & Opti seals
clean inside of coupler splines, grease and put the new "O" rings from TC seal kit on WP drive & WP splines
or go EWP. Mine has been on for 17 years now
Get a "new" vs "rebuilt WP
Buy the FelPro front timing cover gasket seal kit. Replace WP & Opti seals
clean inside of coupler splines, grease and put the new "O" rings from TC seal kit on WP drive & WP splines
or go EWP. Mine has been on for 17 years now
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
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Thanks So this weekend, i got parts from advanced auto and did manage to complete the job. removing the pump took less than 15 min but getting rid of the old gasket took 5 hrs. what a pain. The reinstall went well but i think i should have changes the thermostat when i was in there.
So i had a question on thermostat. I thought a friend of mine put in a 160 thermostat. But when i looked at mine it said "Fc180". I am not sure if its just the stock replacement. Does the 160 thermostats say fc160?
I then bleed the system and filled with dexcool and distilled water. I did run the car, bleed and top off. i can see the temp gauge goes up to 210 and is steady....(last part of the green zone)? The outside temp is close to 90F. Before it would always be close to ~180F(right in the middle of green zone)
So what do you guys think? change the thermostat? I just don't want the engine to over heat...
So i had a question on thermostat. I thought a friend of mine put in a 160 thermostat. But when i looked at mine it said "Fc180". I am not sure if its just the stock replacement. Does the 160 thermostats say fc160?
I then bleed the system and filled with dexcool and distilled water. I did run the car, bleed and top off. i can see the temp gauge goes up to 210 and is steady....(last part of the green zone)? The outside temp is close to 90F. Before it would always be close to ~180F(right in the middle of green zone)
So what do you guys think? change the thermostat? I just don't want the engine to over heat...
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TECH Veteran
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210 is not over heating
If the car was programmed for 160 stat than put one in.
The LT1 stat is different than most so make sure you got the right one.
Did the WP come with a T stat or did you use the one from the old WP?
also the LT1 is reverse cooling so it needs to be bleed. If you did not do that, it will over heat fairly quickly as there is air pockets trapped. There is a bleed screw on Tstat housing. put a rag around it so coolant does not **** all over opti when bleeding
If the car was programmed for 160 stat than put one in.
The LT1 stat is different than most so make sure you got the right one.
Did the WP come with a T stat or did you use the one from the old WP?
also the LT1 is reverse cooling so it needs to be bleed. If you did not do that, it will over heat fairly quickly as there is air pockets trapped. There is a bleed screw on Tstat housing. put a rag around it so coolant does not **** all over opti when bleeding
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Teching In
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I think the car was programmed for a 160 and i used the old thermostat with the new WP.
I did bleed air out of the system using the bleed screw, on top of thermostat housing and did put a rag and some paper towels to prevent opti destruction. Watched a steady stream of coolent and then tightened it..
I found a 160 thermostat on amazon for cheap...i hope there are no special ones or fav thermostats..
Thanks
I did bleed air out of the system using the bleed screw, on top of thermostat housing and did put a rag and some paper towels to prevent opti destruction. Watched a steady stream of coolent and then tightened it..
I found a 160 thermostat on amazon for cheap...i hope there are no special ones or fav thermostats..
Thanks
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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no, just pull the lower hearer hose on the WP and drain a little coolant out in a clean container (you can re-use it)
This way you don't puke as much coolant out when you take off the housing
you will need to bleed the system regardless
This way you don't puke as much coolant out when you take off the housing
you will need to bleed the system regardless