High load/low rpm ticking
05-30-2017, 06:17 AM
#1
High load/low rpm ticking Noticed at the beginning of the month. Recently did a cam and spring swap in February. It was barely noticeable at first, thought it was just going to be noisier with the new springs. It gradually got louder though. Thought it might be an exhaust leak since I had the y-pipe off and I've had the nuts back out on me plenty of times. Y-pipe was nice and tight though (also checked headers while I was down there). Originally had the rockers at 1/4 turn past zero (comp ultra pro magnum 1.6 with 7/16 studs) so I tightened them to 1/2. That actually quieted it down for about 30 minutes then the ticking gradually came back again.
Ticking seems to happen under load up to somewhere between 2000-2500 rpm. I put nearly 3000 miles on the car this month so at freeway speeds going up hills it was super easy to hear. Loud enough that I really want it gone. Car runs and drives great, passed plenty of big rigs pulling up to 6000 rpm with no problems.
This seems like another exhaust leak but the ticking is totally gone at 2500 rpm and up. I suppose it's possible I just can't hear it over the exhaust. I was wondering if I should tighten the rockers another 1/4 turn to see what happens. This cam does have more lift and faster ramp speed, somewhere around .560 vs the .540 of my old CC503. Would that make a difference? New springs are also stiffer, they're the Lunati 73925K5 double springs.
Ticking seems to happen under load up to somewhere between 2000-2500 rpm. I put nearly 3000 miles on the car this month so at freeway speeds going up hills it was super easy to hear. Loud enough that I really want it gone. Car runs and drives great, passed plenty of big rigs pulling up to 6000 rpm with no problems.
This seems like another exhaust leak but the ticking is totally gone at 2500 rpm and up. I suppose it's possible I just can't hear it over the exhaust. I was wondering if I should tighten the rockers another 1/4 turn to see what happens. This cam does have more lift and faster ramp speed, somewhere around .560 vs the .540 of my old CC503. Would that make a difference? New springs are also stiffer, they're the Lunati 73925K5 double springs.
05-30-2017, 02:26 PM
#3
05-30-2017, 03:06 PM
#4
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I have the same issue on my car. Mine is a header gasket leak. Just have to live with it i guess, all my header bolts are tight, time for new gaskets. I've heard copper gaskets are the way to go.
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05-30-2017, 05:19 PM
#9
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Ah. You mean the ones that had a thinner retainer ring for the plunger? So a poorly put together valvetrain couldn't depend on the more rugged retainer ring that would withstand the hammering it received when valve float would happen? Yeah those.
05-31-2017, 04:01 PM
#12
Checked the exhaust from headers to tail pipe and everything is tight. Didn't see any black marks around the heads, EGR plates are still sealed, O2's, y-pipe, header bolts, catalytic are all tight.
It's loud off the bat then quiets down as the rpm's get higher. I thought it was gone by 2500 but I tried to recreate the noise yesterday and turns out I can hear it up to about 3500.
Is ticking only when under load impossible for valve train noise? Like would the valve train make the same noise even at idle or when not under load? If that's the case then all I can think to do next is go to an exhaust shop and have them fill my exhaust with smoke.
I bought this engine in '09. When I had the lifters out for the cam swap they looked pristine. Another question: after I tightened the rockers 1/2 turn I tried wiggling them out of curiosity. A few had a minuscule amount of play side to side. Like the width of a hair it was so little movement. Should they be rock solid with no movement at all?
Is ticking only when under load impossible for valve train noise? Like would the valve train make the same noise even at idle or when not under load? If that's the case then all I can think to do next is go to an exhaust shop and have them fill my exhaust with smoke.
I bought this engine in '09. When I had the lifters out for the cam swap they looked pristine. Another question: after I tightened the rockers 1/2 turn I tried wiggling them out of curiosity. A few had a minuscule amount of play side to side. Like the width of a hair it was so little movement. Should they be rock solid with no movement at all?
05-31-2017, 05:24 PM
#13
if you do have Comp 875 lifters those are their "R" series (racing)...only 1/8 turn to lash those, no more.
Comp 850 lifters are normal lifters where 1/2-1 1/2 preload is fine.
Sooo if you have lashed the 875's past 1/8 turn and driven for awhile....you will wipe a cam lobe...which initially sounds like a "tick" sound and progresses to "knock"
With all that said I chased a tick sound for some time, re-lash valve, checked for any exhaust leaks and found none......until I discovered a pin hole in one of my header primary's...quick spot weld resolved
for the Comp Ultra Pro Mags if you have stock VC you need to trim the webbing in them. Assume you did or "bent" them away. Not knowing what you did just confirm one RR is not hitting any VC webbing inside. Use a stethoscope over each RR on VC to see if one sounds "different"....
Comp 850 lifters are normal lifters where 1/2-1 1/2 preload is fine.
Sooo if you have lashed the 875's past 1/8 turn and driven for awhile....you will wipe a cam lobe...which initially sounds like a "tick" sound and progresses to "knock"
With all that said I chased a tick sound for some time, re-lash valve, checked for any exhaust leaks and found none......until I discovered a pin hole in one of my header primary's...quick spot weld resolved
for the Comp Ultra Pro Mags if you have stock VC you need to trim the webbing in them. Assume you did or "bent" them away. Not knowing what you did just confirm one RR is not hitting any VC webbing inside. Use a stethoscope over each RR on VC to see if one sounds "different"....
05-31-2017, 07:41 PM
#14
if you do have Comp 875 lifters those are their "R" series (racing)...only 1/8 turn to lash those, no more.
Comp 850 lifters are normal lifters where 1/2-1 1/2 preload is fine.
Sooo if you have lashed the 875's past 1/8 turn and driven for awhile....you will wipe a cam lobe...which initially sounds like a "tick" sound and progresses to "knock"
With all that said I chased a tick sound for some time, re-lash valve, checked for any exhaust leaks and found none......until I discovered a pin hole in one of my header primary's...quick spot weld resolved
for the Comp Ultra Pro Mags if you have stock VC you need to trim the webbing in them. Assume you did or "bent" them away. Not knowing what you did just confirm one RR is not hitting any VC webbing inside. Use a stethoscope over each RR on VC to see if one sounds "different"....
Comp 850 lifters are normal lifters where 1/2-1 1/2 preload is fine.
Sooo if you have lashed the 875's past 1/8 turn and driven for awhile....you will wipe a cam lobe...which initially sounds like a "tick" sound and progresses to "knock"
With all that said I chased a tick sound for some time, re-lash valve, checked for any exhaust leaks and found none......until I discovered a pin hole in one of my header primary's...quick spot weld resolved
for the Comp Ultra Pro Mags if you have stock VC you need to trim the webbing in them. Assume you did or "bent" them away. Not knowing what you did just confirm one RR is not hitting any VC webbing inside. Use a stethoscope over each RR on VC to see if one sounds "different"....
My valve covers have been cut to accommodate the rockers so I think I'm good there.
I'll post a video of the car idling with a few revs. The video makes the ticking sound much louder than it is believe it or not. When I rev the engine, that's probably the most accurate sound in the vid.
05-31-2017, 10:35 PM
#15
I can't believe it but I just got a reply from Golen. Say what you will about his engines but the guy has given me some of the best customer service I've ever had anywhere. He said the lifters are OE Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters and at his shop they adjust them 3/4 to 1 full turn past zero lash. He recommended I adjust them 1 full turn past zero and run the car for a few hours. I'll give it a try!
06-01-2017, 10:25 AM
#16
The video sounds more like the lifters need adjustment. You have Comp 850 lifters which are OE replacement lifters. Same ones I use.
I also have a Golen 383 short block. Chad has offered very good customer service to me. Motor has around 25k mi on it now, no issues
I also have a Golen 383 short block. Chad has offered very good customer service to me. Motor has around 25k mi on it now, no issues
06-01-2017, 10:47 AM
#17
Oh dear......thats not the beautiful roller rocker sewing machine sound we all love. Thats a horrible racket. Re-adjust the lash to 3/4 to 1 turn past zero lash and be absolutely sure the lifter is on the base of the cam lobe when adjusting. I wouldn't even start the car with that nasty tapping going on.
06-02-2017, 07:58 PM
#19
Oh dear......thats not the beautiful roller rocker sewing machine sound we all love. Thats a horrible racket. Re-adjust the lash to 3/4 to 1 turn past zero lash and be absolutely sure the lifter is on the base of the cam lobe when adjusting. I wouldn't even start the car with that nasty tapping going on.
After adjusting and taking it for a drive today, the car developed a NEW noise. This time it's a knock, not just a tick. Definitely on the passenger side. So now not only do I have the same ticking as before, I also have a knock.