I need help, badly.... my exhaust system is dragging....
#1
I need help, badly.... my exhaust system is dragging....
Ok... i put in pacesetter long tubes and made a duel 2.5" H pipe exhaust which goes to two Super 10's and kicks sideways out infront of the rear tires (inorder for me to pass inspection i cannot have exhaust terminate under the vehicle)
and finally after days and days of working had just set the car onto the ground from the jackstands.... what a glorious feeling that was. i got insurance, plates etc! i was going to go for a well deserved victory blast! i made it 3 feet. Scrrraaappeeee as the front tires started down the driveway the clearance under the vehicle became less and i never account for my fat *** or 23 year old bagged suspension. so the exhaust clamp bolts dragged on the ground.... i cannot explain to you the feeling of working on a car for the first time and having it turn out a failure. disheartening does not even come close.
anyways i have no idea how to fix this, i could cut these two angle pieces out and re-weld them on a 45 degree angle (which would leave the mufflers pressed up on the bottom of the floorpans of both driver/passenger side) and cut off the excess bolt from the exhaust clamps... it may net me about 1.25" more clearance but i would be terrified about railroad tracks, pot holes, speed bumps etc... i need some suggestions on what to do.... i pulled it back into the garage (using 2x4's to lift the car so it didnt drag while i backed in) and put it back on jackstands....
here is my exhaust system from the headers back.. what i circled in red is what i can cut out and re-orientate to get a bit more clearance. it does not show the exhaust clamps but heres a pic of them also.
Attachment 719804
#5
Yea, get a pic of it on the car...
I'm curious how you put in a H pipe balance pipe that wide under a 4th Gen. I built my own system too and between the driveshaft and torque arm you must have that hanging real low. Can your axle drop freely with that crossover pipe like that??
First, PS longtubes (err MOST longtubes) on a 4th gen suck and hang low especially the LT1 cars. LS1 cars are able to tuck up a little higher due to the floorboard notch under the driver seat.
Second, get rid of those cheap *** crimp clamps. Get some 1" wide band clamps or 3" wide lap-joint style band clamps. Also, how did you get PS headers that use a 3 bolt flange? Mine are a slip fit. That flange will kill clearance too.
Third, dumping exhaust out the side like you did makes to place the mufflers fairly low to get proper floorboard to pipe clearance. I would deal with this for now to pass inspection, then make a setup that dumps before rear axle so it can tuck up higher.
I'm curious how you put in a H pipe balance pipe that wide under a 4th Gen. I built my own system too and between the driveshaft and torque arm you must have that hanging real low. Can your axle drop freely with that crossover pipe like that??
First, PS longtubes (err MOST longtubes) on a 4th gen suck and hang low especially the LT1 cars. LS1 cars are able to tuck up a little higher due to the floorboard notch under the driver seat.
Second, get rid of those cheap *** crimp clamps. Get some 1" wide band clamps or 3" wide lap-joint style band clamps. Also, how did you get PS headers that use a 3 bolt flange? Mine are a slip fit. That flange will kill clearance too.
Third, dumping exhaust out the side like you did makes to place the mufflers fairly low to get proper floorboard to pipe clearance. I would deal with this for now to pass inspection, then make a setup that dumps before rear axle so it can tuck up higher.
Last edited by smitty2919; 06-02-2017 at 08:18 AM.
#6
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Yea, get a pic of it on the car...
I'm curious how you put in a H pipe balance pipe that wide under a 4th Gen. I built my own system too and between the driveshaft and torque arm you must have that hanging real low. Can your axle drop freely with that crossover pipe like that??
First, PS longtubes (err MOST longtubes) on a 4th gen suck and hang low especially the LT1 cars. LS1 cars are able to tuck up a little higher due to the floorboard notch under the driver seat.
Second, get rid of those cheap *** crimp clamps. Get some 1" wide band clamps or 3" wide lap-joint style band clamps. Also, how did you get PS headers that use a 3 bolt flange? Mine are a slip fit. That flange will kill clearance too.
Third, dumping exhaust out the side like you did makes to place the mufflers fairly low to get proper floorboard to pipe clearance. I would deal with this for now to pass inspection, then make a setup that dumps before rear axle so it can tuck up higher.
I'm curious how you put in a H pipe balance pipe that wide under a 4th Gen. I built my own system too and between the driveshaft and torque arm you must have that hanging real low. Can your axle drop freely with that crossover pipe like that??
First, PS longtubes (err MOST longtubes) on a 4th gen suck and hang low especially the LT1 cars. LS1 cars are able to tuck up a little higher due to the floorboard notch under the driver seat.
Second, get rid of those cheap *** crimp clamps. Get some 1" wide band clamps or 3" wide lap-joint style band clamps. Also, how did you get PS headers that use a 3 bolt flange? Mine are a slip fit. That flange will kill clearance too.
Third, dumping exhaust out the side like you did makes to place the mufflers fairly low to get proper floorboard to pipe clearance. I would deal with this for now to pass inspection, then make a setup that dumps before rear axle so it can tuck up higher.
#7
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Easy. Get rid of the H-pipe and either run straight pipe with the mufflers or fab up a y-pipe. You will notice zero performance difference between the two. Is your suspension lowered?
P.S. After awhile you're going to hate driving that car for being far too loud.
P.S. After awhile you're going to hate driving that car for being far too loud.
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#9
Interesting....so I'll admit, I don't have anything on my headers saying they are PS, but they are not stainless, they were painted black (now 100% surface rust lol) and the tube routing LOOKS like PS headers...yet no 3 bolt flange for me and no one modified them.
I'll never go with the "traditional" Y midpipe design after I made this. Takes a couple extra bends but the smoothness of the exhaust note is well worth it. Almost as smooth as a LS motor tone.
Love my setup with a full size Stainless Works muffler. Armed with nothing but specifically chosen 409 Stainless 3" bends, 4" cutoff wheel and a tape measure.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ust-build.html
I'll never go with the "traditional" Y midpipe design after I made this. Takes a couple extra bends but the smoothness of the exhaust note is well worth it. Almost as smooth as a LS motor tone.
Love my setup with a full size Stainless Works muffler. Armed with nothing but specifically chosen 409 Stainless 3" bends, 4" cutoff wheel and a tape measure.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ust-build.html
#10
TECH Resident
Here is Injuneer's dual setup.
My single setup....ground clearance is excellent for a long tube setup.
Don't put the band clamp bolt down like I did in this pic....
#11
Ok, i only got one picture, i cut/rewelded and tucked it up a tad bit higher while cutting off the excess bolts. it allowed my to clear my driveway, i got about 2.5 inches of clearance from the ground...... ugh (the clearance drops lower as you get farther towards the rear of the car)
its parked outside right now not on jackstands so i can't get a picture of how it is set up under the car. however, it is far to loud for how slow it is lol. i tried to go to the car wash. got half way in and the road started to build a saddle. (middle higher than where the wheels are) and i heard it dragging... had to reverse out and navigate around a parking lot to avoid dragging the exhaust anymore. also, all the weight of the exhaust is hanging off the headers... i put rubber mounts in but honestly they take up no weight
I may have to buy a full exhaust kit and just scrap my dum dum build.
its parked outside right now not on jackstands so i can't get a picture of how it is set up under the car. however, it is far to loud for how slow it is lol. i tried to go to the car wash. got half way in and the road started to build a saddle. (middle higher than where the wheels are) and i heard it dragging... had to reverse out and navigate around a parking lot to avoid dragging the exhaust anymore. also, all the weight of the exhaust is hanging off the headers... i put rubber mounts in but honestly they take up no weight
I may have to buy a full exhaust kit and just scrap my dum dum build.
Last edited by Gumby83; 06-02-2017 at 06:37 PM.
#15
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
From the picture, it looks like you could benefit from adding in these style hangers that I mentioned in your other thread:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...aaQhoCobHw_wcB at the back of the passenger seat.
#16
Having mufflers under the floor pan like you have them is killing you. There is a reason no one makes systems like you have and run side pipes. You COULD tuck some glasspack style mufflers on either side of the DS then 90* out to side pipes. But still you are running 2.5" pipes under the floor boards and reducing ground clearance by a minimum of 2.5"
#19
but an update. after sulking for a few days i decided that i have essentially ruined a fun car. i HATE having to watch for any tiny variation in the road, having to drive at 1500rpm as not to deafen other people in traffic or having to look around every time i do rip on it. So, i have jacked the car up to the moon (which btw is fan ******* tastic, SO SO much easier to work under) taken the old exhaust off. cut it up and i am now in the process of running duels down the same route the stock exhaust as taken, please ignore the ugly welds and huge gaps. i tack **** together, then cut out peaces to fill the gaps, much easier than trying to do maths. I also got a muffler that will allow me to enjoy full throttle a hell of alot more than i do right now.
#20
You may hate me...but I suggest some kind of crossover. X pipe/H pipe
Otherwise it may sound..."interesting"
Aside from the gaps in order to "not do maths" LOL, it's looking good. You should be happy with the results.
Also, be mindful of making it in sections so it can be removed. Currently it can be unbolted at the headers it looks like. I would add another joint on the backside of the axle so you can remove the exhaust in 2 pieces. Front section and the under trunk section.
Mine has three joints. At the headers, right before the axle, and then at the beginning of the muffler. The dark spots are areas that were heated/flattened for floor pan and torque arm clearances. All hand cut with a 4" cutoff wheel and a tape measure. It can be done neatly, just takes some time and planning.
You seem to be on the right track now though!
Otherwise it may sound..."interesting"
Aside from the gaps in order to "not do maths" LOL, it's looking good. You should be happy with the results.
Also, be mindful of making it in sections so it can be removed. Currently it can be unbolted at the headers it looks like. I would add another joint on the backside of the axle so you can remove the exhaust in 2 pieces. Front section and the under trunk section.
Mine has three joints. At the headers, right before the axle, and then at the beginning of the muffler. The dark spots are areas that were heated/flattened for floor pan and torque arm clearances. All hand cut with a 4" cutoff wheel and a tape measure. It can be done neatly, just takes some time and planning.
You seem to be on the right track now though!
Last edited by smitty2919; 06-14-2017 at 11:55 AM.