LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Looking for detailed step-by-step on head swaps

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Old 01-16-2018, 03:16 PM
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if you do use TTY (torque to yield) bolts than you need one of those wrenches with a degree wheel

Just use ARP bolts and TQ per spec with a TQ wrench in the sequence noted in service manual

I found this book VERY helpful

Amazon Amazon
Old 01-16-2018, 03:19 PM
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What head bolts are you using? For stock bolts they are torqued to 65lbs in a three step torque sequence. If they are ARP you need to call them and ask what torque spec they are good for.
If your bolts are stock, are they the same ones or did you buy new?
Old 01-16-2018, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AdsoYo
I'm in the midst of tooling up and have a question about what wrench to use for the head bolts. The instructions I have say to tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs, then tighten the long and medium length bolts an additional 80 degrees and the short bolts an additional 67 degrees. I thought I've seen wrenches with degree wheels on the wrench but I figured I'd ask if anyone knew what the proper tool is.
I sounds like you are reading instructions on how to torque an LS1 head down using TTY bolts. For that you need a torque angle gauge. For LT1 heads you just need to torque to spec, no angles involved. Look over some of the how-to guides that have been generously posted above, they include the torque sequence and torque specs.
Old 01-16-2018, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I sounds like you are reading instructions on how to torque an LS1 head down using TTY bolts.
Not true. LT1 does indeed have torque angles for the head bolts.
Old 01-16-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ******
if you do use TTY (torque to yield) bolts than you need one of those wrenches with a degree wheel

Just use ARP bolts and TQ per spec with a TQ wrench in the sequence noted in service manual

I found this book VERY helpful

https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small.../dp/1557883939
I have that book! I agree it's a nice reference.

Originally Posted by SS RRR
What head bolts are you using? For stock bolts they are torqued to 65lbs in a three step torque sequence. If they are ARP you need to call them and ask what torque spec they are good for.
If your bolts are stock, are they the same ones or did you buy new?
I've got these in my shopping cart now: ARP 134-3701, they are not torque to yield. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-3701

Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I sounds like you are reading instructions on how to torque an LS1 head down using TTY bolts. For that you need a torque angle gauge. For LT1 heads you just need to torque to spec, no angles involved. Look over some of the how-to guides that have been generously posted above, they include the torque sequence and torque specs.
I got this info from this guide posted above: https://www.justanswer.com/car/16ecc...0334b4d83c1cdf

It sounds like since these bolts are not torque to yield, I don't need to worry about a degree wheel. I'll just torque in sequence to the proper value. Something like 15-30-65 ft/lbs over 3 passes? (or whatever ARP says to torque to)
Old 01-16-2018, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Not true. LT1 does indeed have torque angles for the head bolts.
Hmm, I never did it that way. I just torqued them. I did use a swap how-to with a similar guide to the ones posted above long ago. I never used a torque angle gauge. I never had any issues, but I don't want to perpetuate wrong information...
Old 01-16-2018, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AdsoYo
I've got these in my shopping cart now: ARP 134-3701, they are not torque to yield. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-3701
You can also reuse them as long as you do not over torque them. I'd suggest calling ARP and asking them what torque spec to use. Just make sure to tighten them in sequence in three stages. Very important.

Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Hmm, I never did it that way.
Neither have I. It's not necessary.
Old 01-16-2018, 04:27 PM
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I just looked in my factory shop manual. OE bolts are torque to yield....
Old 01-21-2018, 10:51 PM
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I think GM used non-tty for the first couple of years then went to tty for the head bolts.

I've been running ARP head bolts since around '09. Can't remember what torque value I settled on...I think it was either 65 or 70 lb-ft(3 steps in the correct sequence 30-50-final).

I didn't use the ARP lube to torque them as I used permatex high temp sealant(liberal amounts) on all the head bolts. The engine was not put into service for a few weeks after that...so the sealant did have plenty of time to cure before seeing any coolant.

So...almost ten years....no problems.

Edit...just looked it up and the '94 manual calls out 65 lb-ft in 3 steps. So no tty for that year. I think I settled on 70 lb-ft as ARP was calling out for a higher number, even with the recomended lube. I didn't want to go to the number they wanted.

'95 manual calls out 65 lb-ft(3-steps), '96 manual calls out for angle based final value. So, it appears that '96 was the first year for tty bolts.

Last edited by ACE1252; 01-21-2018 at 11:35 PM.
Old 01-22-2018, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ACE1252
.






. So, it appears that '96 was the first year for tty bolts.
Nope, My 95Z had the tty on the head bolts, Might be a late 95
Old 01-22-2018, 10:40 AM
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The shop manual that I quoted was for the 1996 model year......
Old 01-22-2018, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
Nope, My 95Z had the tty on the head bolts, Might be a late 95
Maybe, I can't say for certain, but the service manual for '95 calls out a torque valve with no additional angle.

Me personally, I would not reuse any head bolt unless I know for certain what they are....ARP for example. I will reuse them when I swap my heads out for AI ported units.
Old 02-08-2018, 01:08 AM
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It's party time


Old 02-08-2018, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I just looked in my factory shop manual. OE bolts are torque to yield....
Where specifically? I have the 96 GM manual and haven't seen where it says TTY or replace head bolts.
Old 02-08-2018, 11:42 AM
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Sweet, what did you do to the heads and did you port the intake? One of my regrets is I didnt port my intake while I had everything apart, now I dont want to mess with it again lol
Old 02-08-2018, 11:56 AM
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I used plastic trim tools that were sharp from Northern Tool and brake cleaner to scrape off gaskets, took a minute and why I put MLS gaskets back on.
Old 02-08-2018, 01:52 PM
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Eh, a wheel wire brush will work on the block. A new razor blade works great on aluminum surfaces. It's especially nice to remove timing cover and water pump gaskets.
Old 02-08-2018, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LT1Bird97
Sweet, what did you do to the heads and did you port the intake? One of my regrets is I didnt port my intake while I had everything apart, now I dont want to mess with it again lol
The heads are 21* Trick Flows with 54cc chambers for 11:1 compression. They have 215cc intake ports with 2.055/1.60 valves that should flow 310/225 cfm. I also had Lloyd do his full intake work which involves "making the ports much taller and wider all of the way through to the plenum, open TB holes up for 58 MM TB, remove LOTS of material behind the TB and through the plenum."








Old 02-09-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
Where specifically? I have the 96 GM manual and haven't seen where it says TTY or replace head bolts.
In the 1996 F-Body manual that I have, it's mentioned in two places. Place #1, is under the general reassembly of the engine instructions, page 6A3B-38, then place #2, is under the general torque specifications page, 6A3B-51.

For those without the manual, the numbers are as follows:
First pass, all bolts, in proper sequence, 22 ft/lbs.
Second pass, in proper sequence,
*short bolt...67 degrees of rotation;
*medium bolt...80 degrees of rotation;
*long bolt...80 degrees of rotation.
Old 02-09-2018, 06:49 PM
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I think Spartan is technically right. I looked at this last night and can't find where GM calls out for the head bolts to be replaced. In the forward of the engine section, they do mention that if something needs to be replaced, they would call it out...and they don't for the head bolts. They do for the head gaskets.

In the '98 manual, they do call for the head bolts not be reused...but of course that is LS1 stuff.

I think there is the general assumption that if you see angle torques, then the bolts very well may be TTY(I know I assumed it...).....but I could not verify in the service manual or parts manual that the head bolts are TTY. I don't know of any marks on a bolt that would call it out as TTY either.

I suppose one could chance reusing them, but I think the wiser move is to buy bolts you know are not TTY...which I have done(ARP).

I don't have a scan of the '97 manual, so it might say something there, but I can't find TTY specifically mentioned in the '96 manual for head bolts.


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