Looking for detailed step-by-step on head swaps
Looking for detailed step-by-step on head swaps Wondering if anyone knows of any books, web pages, or threads with detailed instructions on how to swap heads. I'm planning on doing it this winter and have never done it before. So far my searching has come up with threads that talk about how easy it is but nothing really helpful. So far I've been able to piece together: it can be done with the engine in the car despite it resting under the cowl. I might have to cut the steam pipe so I will have a new one ready to go (from Hawks 3rd Gen). I might have to stick a breaker bar or something similar in an intake runner to pry the head off. I should get new head bolts and make sure all mating surfaces and bolt threads are perfectly clean. When torquing the heads, you don't torque to a certain ft/lb, you torque to a certain degree of bolt rotation so I need a new tool for that.
These are the kind of intricate nit picky details I'm after, I don't want to screw this up. Still wondering if I need to remove the water pump, if the head bolts need to be removed in any particular order, and if I should use RTV with the head gaskets among other things.
These are the kind of intricate nit picky details I'm after, I don't want to screw this up. Still wondering if I need to remove the water pump, if the head bolts need to be removed in any particular order, and if I should use RTV with the head gaskets among other things.
Like leadfoot4 said a shop manual would be super helpful for ya. Also, AllData DIY would have the info in electronic searchable form. You can have unlimited access to your car for a year I think an it's only 20 bucks.
If you are going to swap the heads then you want to keep everything as clean as possible, once you pull the intake it will drop all kinds of dirt into the lifter valley. If I was going to do a head swap I'd just drop the kmember on a study movers dolly and you will have all the room you need to work on it.
For the block you will need to keep everything as clean as possible on the deck, so working in the car by yourself may not be the easiest.
Just make sure to clean/lube the head bolts for the proper torque, you can also throw some sealant on any that go into the water jacket. I use a simple beam wrench on anything that isn't a Torque-To-Yield bolt and use the correct torque sequence for each of the 3 passes. So if you had 55-65 ft-lbs you would go 15 then 30 then the finial pass for the installed torque. If you can borrow a nice snapon it will vibrate and beep at you right before you get to the finial number, otherwise you might need a hand holding the motor still
As for the intake just take some good pictures of the electric harness and you shouldn't have any problems there, the vacuum lines in these cars can get messed up so you want to pay attention to them.
Adjusting the rockers is about the most difficult part and that can be done with several methods.
For the block you will need to keep everything as clean as possible on the deck, so working in the car by yourself may not be the easiest.
Just make sure to clean/lube the head bolts for the proper torque, you can also throw some sealant on any that go into the water jacket. I use a simple beam wrench on anything that isn't a Torque-To-Yield bolt and use the correct torque sequence for each of the 3 passes. So if you had 55-65 ft-lbs you would go 15 then 30 then the finial pass for the installed torque. If you can borrow a nice snapon it will vibrate and beep at you right before you get to the finial number, otherwise you might need a hand holding the motor still
As for the intake just take some good pictures of the electric harness and you shouldn't have any problems there, the vacuum lines in these cars can get messed up so you want to pay attention to them.
Adjusting the rockers is about the most difficult part and that can be done with several methods.
Last edited by fex77k; Dec 22, 2017 at 09:56 PM.
I subscribe to alldata and they do have a section for replacing head gaskets but it's not very good. For instance it does say to make 3 passes when torquing the bolts but not in what order or how much torque for each pass. I just bought the 2 volume service manual off ebay so I'm hoping that has the details I'm looking for.
Thanks for the input fex. I plan on using my dremel with a brush attachment to clean the block. I already use it to clean the intake manifold mating surfaces when I have to take the intake off and it works like a charm. Turns a 1 hour job into a 10 minute job.
Thanks for the input fex. I plan on using my dremel with a brush attachment to clean the block. I already use it to clean the intake manifold mating surfaces when I have to take the intake off and it works like a charm. Turns a 1 hour job into a 10 minute job.
I did a search on youtube and found videos. Not sure how accurate they are, but the process is very straight forward. IMO, head swaps are far easier/less of a PITA than a cam swap. Once you get to the point of adjusting valves, go to- www.shbox.com under the 'how to' section. There are a few different ways. They all work.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
I did my heads and cam while following these 4 guides basically
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...wap-guide.html
http://www.justanswer.com/car/16ecc-...-lt1-bent.html
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...wap-guide.html
http://www.justanswer.com/car/16ecc-...-lt1-bent.html
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I'm just not a big fan of using any kinda power tools to remove gaskets. I would use a red scotch bright pad. When using power its too easy to take off to much as it is aluminum. I know some will say that what the gaskets for but....why add problems
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TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
Power tools are certainly a no-no to clean the gasket surfaces.
Scotch brite should also be avoided unless you plan on washing the block afterwards. The particles left behind by the scotch brite can remain in the engine and are small enough to make it past a oil filter. It can pretty much make your oil liquid sand paper. I avoided it altogether as you are removing material with it.
Now I did use scotch brite wheels when breaking the edges of the cam bores. The edges were so sharp, that when I installed my cam bearings I kept getting long thin shards shaved off the bearing and left behind in the oil galleys. However, after I was done with that process, I thoroughly washed the block with dawn and rifle brushed every oil passage.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...arings-749300/
I used a razor blade combined with paper towels and lacquer thinner to clean the block deck and heads. I put a slight bend in the blade to keep the corners off the block and heads when working around the edges. Going off and coming back on edge with the corners of the blade can scratch the surface. If you are working with an area where you are not moving the corners of the blade off the edge of the surface, leaving it flat should be fine.
There is a "feel" and angle to using the blade to clean off the deck, but it works without any worry of leaving material behind. You need to be more careful if using a blade on the heads as the material is softer.
Scotch brite should also be avoided unless you plan on washing the block afterwards. The particles left behind by the scotch brite can remain in the engine and are small enough to make it past a oil filter. It can pretty much make your oil liquid sand paper. I avoided it altogether as you are removing material with it.
Now I did use scotch brite wheels when breaking the edges of the cam bores. The edges were so sharp, that when I installed my cam bearings I kept getting long thin shards shaved off the bearing and left behind in the oil galleys. However, after I was done with that process, I thoroughly washed the block with dawn and rifle brushed every oil passage.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...arings-749300/
I used a razor blade combined with paper towels and lacquer thinner to clean the block deck and heads. I put a slight bend in the blade to keep the corners off the block and heads when working around the edges. Going off and coming back on edge with the corners of the blade can scratch the surface. If you are working with an area where you are not moving the corners of the blade off the edge of the surface, leaving it flat should be fine.
There is a "feel" and angle to using the blade to clean off the deck, but it works without any worry of leaving material behind. You need to be more careful if using a blade on the heads as the material is softer.
Last edited by ACE1252; Oct 29, 2017 at 11:03 AM.
After doing my first cam swap last winter, that is fantastic news.
Thank you these are great!
I'll be replacing the heads with some LE 21* Trick Flows so no worries about power tools on the aluminum.
I did my heads and cam while following these 4 guides basically
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...wap-guide.html
http://www.justanswer.com/car/16ecc-...-lt1-bent.html
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...wap-guide.html
http://www.justanswer.com/car/16ecc-...-lt1-bent.html
I'll be replacing the heads with some LE 21* Trick Flows so no worries about power tools on the aluminum.
I thought of some questions for when the heads and intake get back from Lloyd.
Does anyone have a link or part number for the head bolts I should use?
I keep coming across threads where people mention cleaning the head bolt holes. Some say use a thread chaser, some say use a brush, some say clean an old bolt and use that. Does anyone have any input on this?
Does anyone have a link or part number for the head bolts I should use?
I keep coming across threads where people mention cleaning the head bolt holes. Some say use a thread chaser, some say use a brush, some say clean an old bolt and use that. Does anyone have any input on this?
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
Thread chaser.
The set I've got looks like this, but it's not Craftsman.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shc-952105/overview/
The set I've got looks like this, but it's not Craftsman.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shc-952105/overview/
Wondering if anyone knows of any books, web pages, or threads with detailed instructions on how to swap heads. I'm planning on doing it this winter and have never done it before. So far my searching has come up with threads that talk about how easy it is but nothing really helpful. So far I've been able to piece together: it can be done with the engine in the car despite it resting under the cowl. I might have to cut the steam pipe so I will have a new one ready to go (from Hawks 3rd Gen). I might have to stick a breaker bar or something similar in an intake runner to pry the head off. I should get new head bolts and make sure all mating surfaces and bolt threads are perfectly clean. When torquing the heads, you don't torque to a certain ft/lb, you torque to a certain degree of bolt rotation so I need a new tool for that.
These are the kind of intricate nit picky details I'm after, I don't want to screw this up. Still wondering if I need to remove the water pump, if the head bolts need to be removed in any particular order, and if I should use RTV with the head gaskets among other things.
These are the kind of intricate nit picky details I'm after, I don't want to screw this up. Still wondering if I need to remove the water pump, if the head bolts need to be removed in any particular order, and if I should use RTV with the head gaskets among other things.
First off, Take your time and dont be in a rush, I label baggies for each set of bolts for everything, Intake, Alternator, ect, Pictures are worth a thousand questions, DO NOT reuse the stock bolts, dont even buy new ones, get ARP, Use a thread chaser to clean out all bolt holes, and make sure you have sealant on the ones that go into the water jacket. Keep it clean, clean, clean. Avoid gouges on the heads or block by scraping, I used a rubber wheel with ****? to remove gasket material and old sealant with a drill, this does not make any marks on the block or head.
Meh, the threads are iron. Unless threads are damaged there's no reason to chase them. Just clean them using a circular brush small enough to fit. I use one of those battery post brushes to get sealant off the threads.
Last edited by SS RRR; Dec 18, 2017 at 09:43 AM.
after talking to Lloyd a little today I learned I will most likely need to get a new set of pushrods. Anyone have recommendations on a pushrod length checking tool?
I'm in the midst of tooling up and have a question about what wrench to use for the head bolts. The instructions I have say to tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs, then tighten the long and medium length bolts an additional 80 degrees and the short bolts an additional 67 degrees. I thought I've seen wrenches with degree wheels on the wrench but I figured I'd ask if anyone knew what the proper tool is.