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I spent all day stewing over whether to take the intake off and clean things up. Actually that's not true, I knew it was the right thing to do based off what you guys said. I just had to convince myself to quit being a lazy dumb@ss and do it. I included pictures this time so you guys know what I'm talking about when I say debris. The big stuff wasn't there when I put the intake on last time but the small stuff was. I'm thinking it falls in when I remove the intake. I cleaned it up the best I could and then dumped 4 quarts of oil all over everything. Lifters, pushrods, walls, oil pump gear, to wash it all down. So now there certainly isn't anything in the lifter valley because it's all in the oil pan. I also used pliers to squeeze that PCV box in the valve cover and now it fits on the head! That's everything, now I just have to wait for the RTV to cure...
Smart move on cleaning it. Looks to me like sand or grit in the top pic - that's the sort of stuff that eats bearings and scores cylinder and lifter bores. I'd comb through craigslist and see if I could source a used shop vac for $20 or so to help.
Also - and I know you don't wanna hear this - but your oil pump drive gear housing appears to be cracked all the way through. I'd pull that thing out and inspect it. If that thing goes out and you're not eyeballing the oil pressure gauge, you're done. And just so you know, that's a really really common thing to break
Just one bolt, but where a lot of people go wrong is they either overtorque the bolt and crack the housing, or the housing is not fully seated on the oil pump gear and they start tightening the bolt. The torque on that bolt is only 13 ft-lb. If you're worried about yours, just pull that sucker out and give it a once-over. It will take you 20 seconds with the intake off.
Someone used to make a billet housing which eliminated that weak plastic crap, but I've not been able to find one.
Smart move on cleaning it. Looks to me like sand or grit in the top pic - that's the sort of stuff that eats bearings and scores cylinder and lifter bores. I'd comb through craigslist and see if I could source a used shop vac for $20 or so to help.
Also - and I know you don't wanna hear this - but your oil pump drive gear housing appears to be cracked all the way through. I'd pull that thing out and inspect it. If that thing goes out and you're not eyeballing the oil pressure gauge, you're done. And just so you know, that's a really really common thing to break.
You're right, that's not what I wanted to hear haha. I just can't win with this car it seems. The only time I ever messed with that was last winter when I did the cam, but I followed shoebox's directions to the letter. Ugh
Also I want to share that after I made my last post and went to bolt down the valve cover, I noticed the bolt holes didn't quite line up. Eventually found out that the bolt tunnel things on cylinders 4 and 8 were making contact with the rockers. Long story short I had to cut them. Finally got the engine assembled though.
Edit: It appears that these require some machining to fit properly, so may not be worth it.
There was someone who also made what was basically a plate which sat on top of the plastic. Basically a giant formed washer. There's really no load on that bolt or plastic extension. Get a piece of aluminum sheeting and cut it to size, drill hole and be done with it.
Edit: It appears that these require some machining to fit properly, so may not be worth it.
There also used to be a fellow who's first name was Shon, but I can't remember his last name. He also sold one of those aluminum housings, and his, too, required a little "file to fit". I put one of those in my Z/28, 4-5 years ago...........I hope the current owner of the car is appreciating it!
FWIW, I still have the OE housing, if anyone needs one.
IMHO...barely go that. IMHO be VERY careful especially on a used/old one as the plastic is aged and brittle. Use blue loc-tite on bolt
I also recall a "inch lb" measurement vs Ft lbs (not = 13 ft lbs) but I do see in shbox site he lists 13 ft lbs
I checked my 120k mi original gear for any wear (there was none) and on install mine cracked (I heard it) with just using a 1/4" drive to "snug" it down before TQ.
Bought a new one at dealership parts for $73.
I think the "metal cap" thing is good if you can find one. Some have used a larger washer under bolt head to disperse the load a little more
when it breaks all the way the oil pump drive gear lifts up and....no more oil pressure
Adsoyo
since you are going back in and if you did not replace the original oil pump drive shaft...I encourage you do using a ARP or Milodin solid metal one. The plastic collar on the stock one can crack on re-install as it also is old & brittle. These are only around $12
......since you are going back in and if you did not replace the original oil pump drive shaft...I encourage you do using a ARP or Milodin solid metal one. The plastic collar on the stock one can crack on re-install as it also is old & brittle. These are only around $12
I agree, and I think Melling also makes one. The Melling part might be easier to obtain, since many "grass roots" auto parts stores carry Melling parts.
OMG it fired right up! Nothing bad seems to have happened either. I have to get to work now so tomorrow I'm going to change oil and coolant. Hoping neither is mixed with the other. If it looks good I'll take her for a spin.
Congrats man! I'm about a week behind you. Ran into a lot of trouble this weekend with the stupid header gaskets and that really just took the energy out of me. So hoping to finish mine on Saturday.
Well the smiles were short lived. When I changed oil and coolant today it looks like they were mixing. I ran the car for 15 minutes on that first start yesterday and when I changed fluids today there was about 9 quarts of black oil and the coolant had a very faint brown cloudiness.
Nine quarts? Is that how much you put in? If the oil is black then it's not mixing with coolant. Do you have an oil cooler? That's the only way I know how oil would be able to get into the coolant.
Nine quarts? Is that how much you put in? If the oil is black then it's not mixing with coolant. Do you have an oil cooler? That's the only way I know how oil would be able to get into the coolant.
No I put 6 quarts in there. I'll post pictures of the oil and coolant. I also don't have an oil cooler. I'm going to check plugs later today for clues. I guess it's possible I didn't drain the old oil but I'm pretty sure I did.
EDIT: Just did a google image search for coolant in oil and mine certainly doesn't look like those pics. Hoping I just forgot about leaving old oil in the engine during all this.
yeaaa, if that's your coolant you drained out after stat up it looks clean as it come out of the bottle, and your oil looks like oil. Hopefully it was just an opps moment and you'll be good to go after getting all the fluids back and at their correct level.
03-23-2018, 04:29 AM
