ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

Just giving yall a heads up. I had to pull my intake off over the weekend I used AFR gaskets last time and I thought the intake was going to break before it came off.

At first I tried prying in the front under the intake. When that didn't work, I stuck a jack pole in the plenum, When THAT didn't work, I stuck 2 jack poles in and it took both me and a buddy pushing up as hard as we could to get it off. We lifted the nose of the car up a good 3-4 inches.

After we finally got it off, it took 2 hours to chisel the old gasket off.

If you are running an LT4 intake, for God's sake, use the GM 7777 gasket.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

The gasket wouldn't be the problem, There had to be some kind of sealant or adhesive used. I've used all kinds of different intake gaskets over the years and never had an issue. The only time I've had problems is when I was working on someone else's car and the person who put it together used to much or the wrong kind of sealant and in some cases used adhesive.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

Just black silicon on the front and rear of the block. Gaskets went on dry.

atlantadan

The sealant used on the china walls can act as an adhesive. Its been my own experience that removing these things can take a fair amount of grunt. The exception was the one that was leaking.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Makes no sense unless the gaskets had some sort of adhesive properties. I've always used a prybar and soft mallet and it comes right off. Even when using Ultra Grey.

atlantadan

Dunno what to say. I've had my manifold off 4x in the past two years and each time it took some muscle. Ultra Grey or Ultra Black, Fel-Pro gaskets.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

I've never had this problem with felpro or any other gaskets. Something about those AFR gaskets though.

ACE1252

In my experience, the intake manifold will take some muscle to remove.

If I recall correctly, I left on the throttle body. Removed all the intake bolts, hoses, etc., then put a pry bar between the throttle body and top of the thermostat housing. I then applied a slow, steadily increasing amount pressure to the pry bar until the it breaks the "right stuff" seal and comes off.....but again... it does take some muscle to break that seal.