Isky Adj Guide Plates
Isky Adj Guide Plates Don't have access to a welder ATM, so I cant tack the guide plates together once I get them set. What techniques have you guys perfected for not getting them to shift when setting the Rocker Stud to TRQ Spec? I was thinking about tightening them down by hand, using a brass drift to tap the plates back into alignment if they shifted then setting TRQ. But I can see that being an issue trying to set the rears. Haven't started yet, prepping my work area for tear down. I start the project late tomorrow afternoon. Just trying to gain some knowledge from experience as this is the first time I've done this on a motor while in the car. The old heads are coming off, in favor of some I bought from JasonShort a while back.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
I did not tack weld my ISKY's...been about 10 years, no issues
Just tighten RR stud enough so you can still slide them as needed then TQ the RR stud to spec.
On a few of mine I had to bring the 2 ISKY halves closer together than the fingers would allow. Just grind off the finger ends until they merge close enough together if you have to.
Just tighten RR stud enough so you can still slide them as needed then TQ the RR stud to spec.
On a few of mine I had to bring the 2 ISKY halves closer together than the fingers would allow. Just grind off the finger ends until they merge close enough together if you have to.
I did not tack weld my ISKY's...been about 10 years, no issues
Just tighten RR stud enough so you can still slide them as needed then TQ the RR stud to spec.
On a few of mine I had to bring the 2 ISKY halves closer together than the fingers would allow. Just grind off the finger ends until they merge close enough together if you have to.
Just tighten RR stud enough so you can still slide them as needed then TQ the RR stud to spec.
On a few of mine I had to bring the 2 ISKY halves closer together than the fingers would allow. Just grind off the finger ends until they merge close enough together if you have to.
Copy that, yeah I was prepared to modify them a bit. I've read that some people have had to modify a couple of them a bit in order to get the plates right in order to achieve proper valve train geometry.
I understand, I was generalizing the term "Valve Train Geometry" to include the RR tip spot on L-R. I've already measured my PR Length when I did the CAM Swap with the old SA RR but I'm going to check them again as I'm upgrading to 3/8 stud and new NSA RR instead of SA just to ensure everything is still dead on as far as PR Length is concerned. I doubt it will be an issue but I've seen weirder things happen. I'm just glad that when I did my CAM Swap I zeroed my cam and marked True TDC as that's one lesson I learned the hard way on one of my previous vehicles. If its there, might as well mark it and make life easier on yourself in the future.
