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That's the ridiculous argument some others have made in here. Those are not REAL differences. The bodies are 10 mils wider here and 10 mils narrow there..... doesn't matter. I asked what is the technical difference between an LS6, LS1, and LS7 lifter? Real differences, not BS part numbers. Can I put an LS1/LS6/LS7 lifter all in a stock 1999 valve train and cam and come up with a stock 7.4" pushrod length etc.? If so, they are interchangeable like I stated. I already agreed that race motor stuff and moon rev'ing is a different story.
I wasn't debating any of that. The LS7 is a drop in replacement for and SBC hydraulic lifter. You asked if there was a difference from LS1/LS6 lifters, I just named a couple of the subtle differences...bowl cup is one and it does change the preload slightly. Most get away with still running a 7.4 pushrod because the LS7 lifter has enough plunger travel to soak up the difference.
I guess you missed the OP where he stated High RPM and 383 build in that post.
Ive had some concerns about my stock 100k+ mileage lt1 lifters collapsing under higher rpms and not getting oil through them so I went ahead and bought myself some LS7 lifters from Brian Tooley Racing. Just would like to know everyones thoughts on these? I hear its a pretty common choice for newer builds like 383's etc.
I wasn't debating any of that. The LS7 is a drop in replacement for and SBC hydraulic lifter. You asked if there was a difference from LS1/LS6 lifters, I just named a couple of the subtle differences...bowl cup is one and it does change the preload slightly. Most get away with still running a 7.4 pushrod because the LS7 lifter has enough plunger travel to soak up the difference.
AH, we must have been talking past each other because that's what I thought you were arguing lol. We good.
No worries...I believe the confusion is on my part. I thought the OP was talking about building a high rpm 383 in his first post. That is why I was recommending to use a different lifter. After reareading his post, I believe he is just asking if a LS7 is a good stock replacement lifter. If that is the case, then yes I agree...and even a good lifter for most mild builds.
Question are the LS7 lifters "short travel" like the Comp "R-series", Morel's or the Caddy Racing lifters and if not I wonder if the preload isn't correct?
Question are the LS7 lifters "short travel" like the Comp "R-series", Morel's or the Caddy Racing lifters and if not I wonder if the preload isn't correct?
No not even close...LS7 lifters have close to .200 travel which is why I suggested using a different lifter for higher rpm combos with higher spring rates and aggressive cam lobes...they like to pump up at higher rpm. Most short travel lifters are well under .100 travel. and your preload adjustment must be more precise. Other drop-in replacements like Morel 5315 have around .120 travel.
So what kind of travel do stock LT1 lifters have? Reason being is over the years there have been many many many setups that have used them for more than 6500rpm.
I’m contemplating cleaning up my Comp R’s and putting them back in!
I cant honestly remember what stock LT1 lifters are...it's been so long since I messed with those. I am pretty sure the LS7 lifter is comparable or a little better. I remember running Comp R lifters on my 96z. I don't think you would have any issue just reusing your comp lifters. RPM is still not the end all for determining what lifter to use. RPM, Spring rate, Cam lobe intensity all play a factor.
But we weren't talking about high RPM engines, now were we? This discussion started as the LS7 being a viable replacement lifter.
Originally Posted by MuhThugga
No, I missed nothing.
apparently you’re missing a lot. The second post of the thread stats LS7 lifters being used at 7100rpm. 7100rpm isn’t high? Which then brought on peoples opinions on using LS7 lifters for different applications and builds. Less I’m right and you’re wrong will result in a more informational thread. The kind of stuff for people that shoot for 400whp with a n/a 383 lt1 need in the first place. It isn’t that a LS7 lifter won’t work. It’s what application does it fit. The one size fits all with a modified engine is what results in lackluster performance/reliability.
Thoughts on LS7 lifters for my application for the thread title may have created less butthurt from the people emotionally connected to their valvetrain.
apparently you’re missing a lot. The second post of the thread stats LS7 lifters being used at 7100rpm. 7100rpm isn’t high? Which then brought on peoples opinions on using LS7 lifters for different applications and builds. Less I’m right and you’re wrong will result in a more informational thread. The kind of stuff for people that shoot for 400whp with a n/a 383 lt1 need in the first place. It isn’t that a LS7 lifter won’t work. It’s what application does it fit. The one size fits all with a modified engine is what results in lackluster performance/reliability.
Thoughts on LS7 lifters for my application for the thread title may have created less butthurt from the people emotionally connected to their valvetrain.
I think you need to go back and re-read everything I have said and take note of exactly who I was specifically responding to. I never said LS7 lifters are a universal application
Anyone here use or have expirence with the GMPP "Caddy Racing" lifters?
Never used them but was all set too until a series of not so positive threads popped up about issues relating to very loud noise and some reported failures. All heresay but it was enough to spook me off using them
Thanks Cam I'm gonna just roll with the Caddy Racing lifters as that's what I have and this build is just a bunch of parts I've collected over the years and just decided to build an engine out of them.
Use what you have = finished projects a lot more than scope creeping parts chasin does. As for the LS7 lifters I noticed on utub watching Cleetus engine tear down and that 7 second rocket, was on LS7 lifters and they still look great too
Cam manufacturers told me ls7 lifters are fine up to 7k and most street strip builds.
Ensure the rest of the valvetrain is correct for your application and stop buying new parts based on hype. Not every build can effectively utilize conical or beehive springs and titanium retainers. Especially pure street cars and dailys.
