I've been dreading this ever since swapping in the T56 over a decade ago. So far I've had shops change the clutch for me but I know I need to experience this.

So far it's been pretty smooth except for 1 bellhousing bolt on the driver's side. I actually cut a flap on the trans tunnel from inside the car with a dremel to get at the bolt from inside.

EDIT: When I close the flap there is a small gap in the metal. I was thinking of putting a piece of cardboard down and then putting the plastic/foam layer on that, then covering it back up with the carpet. Card board seems pretty ghetto though, do you guys know of any other material I can cover the flap with? I don't want to seal it because the next time I have to change the clutch it will be a pain to scrape and clean.



I have another thread going in the manual transmission section but I think I've ran into a uniquely LT1 issue. I'm trying to get the hydraulics replaced since I'm pretty sure it's never happened and the car won't go into reverse with the engine on after a long drive. I can't get the U-bolt for the master cylinder out of the firewall because it's hitting the brake booster. I also can't get the clutch fluid reservoir down because there isn't enough space between the booster and the body. The only solution I see is to move the brake booster but in all the threads I've read, no one ever mentioned this. Can I disconnect the brake master cylinder from the booster and also the booster from the firewall without affecting the brakes? Or is there another way to get this U-bolt out?

 

Here's some pictures of my issue

 

You shouldn't have to do any cutting to get to that last bellhousing bolt. I've always attacked those upper bolts in the trans tunnel with an arrangement that looks like socket>3"extension>ujoint>more extensions>ratchet and by positioning the ratchet as straight as possible somewhere near the tailshaft of the trans. Also, unbolting the trans crossmember and bringing the rear of the trans down slightly with a jack will buy you some room.

If I remember correctly, you'll have to unbolt the brake master cylinder and bend it out of the way to slip the clutch reservoir through. Also, I don't remember having any issues with the master cylinder u-bolt. I think there were some annoying starlock washers holding the u-bolt in beyond the regular nuts, but I don't remember any issues getting the clutch master cylinder out after prying them off.

 

The Trans tunnel was dented like crazy so it looked like one of the shops probably did what you were saying. I was just having so much trouble, the bolt is perfectly easy to access now.

Are those washers on the inside or the engine compartment side?

 

There shouldn't be any denting required with my method.
And the washers should be on the inside under the regular nuts.

 

Looks like the shop that did my auto to manual swap didn't use the washers, never saw them. Also finally got the old hydraulics out. It required removal of the brake master cylinder and the nuts holding the booster on. Then with the booster out as far as possible, I was able to pull everything out the top.







Also, I've never done anything related to the brakes. I've been researching pressure bleeders so I can do it myself but the fluid I sucked out of the master cylinder was black. Should I do anything to address that?

 

Your new hydraulics would have a plastic strap on the slave. Leave it. When you first press clutch pedal the strap breaks leaving the plastic "cup" on end of slave rod (you need this)

If your brake fluid is black just bleed the brakes. Have a helper. Start RR and bleed until fluid becomes amber again. Repeat going to DS, rear, PS front then DS front. You will need to top off brake fluid each wheel. Put MC cap back on each time you refill

About your access hole flap...since it already happened. You could just cut a donor piece of metal about 1/2" wider all around and shape it so it lays flush with the tunnel. drill a small sheet metal screw hole on each side. Put a bead of RTV under the overlapping edge and secure with sheet metal screws. Or just use that thin metal tape like they use on home heater vent pipe (maybe a few layers)

 

Makes my heart hurt when I see unnecessary cutting.
The secret to get bolts in that area has always been long extensions and a wobbly for the socket. If need be, pull down a bit on the trans to angle it more for clearance.
You can disconnect the booster and master cyl. Just don't push on the brake pedal when the both or separated. I once had the master/slave cyl. clutch line replaced by a shop and they got rid of the u-bolt. I am not sure if that would help, but it is still a gold plated bitch to get everything lined up and tightened when by yourself.

 

The dent in the trans tunnel looked like someone used a giant breaker bar or something to wedge the trans over to get enough room to access the bolt. I tried that too but couldn't move it enough by myself. I also took the trans off before removing the bellhousing so by the time I got to the bellhousing, I didn't have the trans giving me any leverage. If I were to do it again, I'd probably take that one bellhousing bolt out with the trans on, then remove the trans. Although since I have an access flap now, that's not necessary. I like the idea of metal tape to cover it up, thanks for suggesting!

I already got the booster and clutch master back in and secured, it was no sweat. I'm going to look for a power bleeder so I can do it myself. Any suggestions on a power bleeder that uses an air compressor?

 

I have always taken off the trans with the bellhousing. More leverage to move engine down to get better access.

 

Motive power bleeder.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...c-bleeder-kits

No need for compressed air. Also, do not pump the pressure too high......ask me how I know....
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sus...ploded-691887/

7-10psi is more than enough to bleed the system.

 

LOL.. yeah.. I have a story or three about bleeding brakes with the motive, trying to get to what I thought was an acceptable pressure, cap blowing off the reservoir and brake fluid going everywhere.

 

Tomorrow I should be able to get everything all buttoned up. There are three issues I have questions about though:

When I push the clutch fork in, one of the arms makes contact with the guide tube. The old fork doesn't do this but it does look a little worn.

Here is the fork pulled out



And here is the fork pushed in



The other issue concerns the brakes. The reservoir is coated with this muck. Is there a way to clean it out?



Finally, the master cylinder has an O-ring where it mates with the booster but it isn't a complete circle. I've never had a problem with the brakes. Is this something to be concerned with?

 

You forgot the clutch fork will be around the throwout bearing when you install the transmission. This is a good time to remind you to make sure you pull the fork outward all the way so when installing the transmission, it makes way for the TOB. Once the transmission is bolted in place you can then push the fork inward to then make contact with the outside of the TOB.
Take ALL of that muck off the tube and input shaft. It is not necessary and can sling all over the clutch which will then ruin it. No lubrication is necessary. It can also attract clutch dust which will just make a mess if ever separating the trans from the engine again. If you want, you can put a very light coating of grease onto the TOB where the fork makes contact and a VERY light coating onto the tube. Just nothing crazy like pictured.
I have no idea about the master cylinder. If it's good then leave it be. If it were me I would separate the reservoir from the m/c and brake clean it out with some sort of flexible brush, or fill it about 1/4 full with something like mineral spirits and vigorously shake it, or just leave it alone and send it. Just depends on the day.

 

Yes I will certainly have the fork pulled out when I install the trans, I just pushed it in to demonstrate how it makes contact.

As far as the copious amount on ceramlub, that was how the Youtube video I've been using reassembled the clutch. I'll wipe off the excess cause I don't like the idea of it getting slung around like you said.

 

The pressure plate is supposed to sit flush on the flywheel right? The video says torque to 15 ft/lbs in a star pattern then add 30* but I just torqued to 22 ft/lbs according to info I found on this site. Couldn't find a solid answer about it sitting flush.

 

It'd be cool if they would explain why they feel so much lubricant is needed on all the input shaft as well as on a device that may float back and forth a smidge, but in no way needs to be lubricated to do so. They most likely don't even know. Perhaps a step included so it can be marked off on a CYA form of some sort. I'm just saying it's not necessary, but pick your poison.

 

I've been wrestling with the transmission for hours, I can only ever get it about 1/2" from the bellhousing. The clutch alignment tool slides in effortlessly but then gets a little stuck when I try to pull it back out. Gonna try to realign the disk I guess.

 

Got it! The clutch disk wasn't *perfect*. I pushed the alignment tool ALL the way in, lifted up on it and tightened two PP bolts. Now I know what perfect is supposed to feel like. Whew.

 

The clutch fork was giving me some grief. Does this look like it's in correctly?