Quality 4340 Eagle Crankshaft ?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2022
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Quality 4340 Eagle Crankshaft ? I cannot seem to find a good crank shaft to fit my needs. I found a crank shaft that has everything I am looking for, however it is made by Eagle... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-435334805700
I hear nothing good about Eagle and how their cranks are cracking left and right. Is their reputation plagued with bad reviews like MSD is with their lower quality products; does the same situation apply ? Or is anything made by Eagle something to stay away from.
I hear nothing good about Eagle and how their cranks are cracking left and right. Is their reputation plagued with bad reviews like MSD is with their lower quality products; does the same situation apply ? Or is anything made by Eagle something to stay away from.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Not sure where you're getting info on bad reviews on Eagle. they had a bad run many years ago during a short stint of bad management. But that has been resolved. Eagle makes excellent products and they have no reason to advertise. They do well based on reputation. I have used many of their products since the 80s. Never had a problem. Even during their bad time around 95-96ish.
Check out youtuber MotoIQ. They use Eagle assemblies and do well with them. My old LT1 has a Eagle 383 kit in it. Engine is sold now and still running strong. Built it in 2007
There's nothing wrong with shopping and you're doing the right thing by asking. But in my personal experience, I never had any problems with them and all their stuff mic'd out dead on every time. And I mic everything.
Not to say someone else didn't have an issue. Every company does. Trust me, my luck is all bad luck. I've had more stuff wrong than right from companies.
Check out youtuber MotoIQ. They use Eagle assemblies and do well with them. My old LT1 has a Eagle 383 kit in it. Engine is sold now and still running strong. Built it in 2007
There's nothing wrong with shopping and you're doing the right thing by asking. But in my personal experience, I never had any problems with them and all their stuff mic'd out dead on every time. And I mic everything.
Not to say someone else didn't have an issue. Every company does. Trust me, my luck is all bad luck. I've had more stuff wrong than right from companies.
I cannot seem to find a good crank shaft to fit my needs. I found a crank shaft that has everything I am looking for, however it is made by Eagle... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-435334805700
HOWEVER
There was a "bad" batch made back in the early 2000's where tolerances were passable, but not the same as stock at least for pilot holes, flanges and the snout. The pilot hole and flange were oversized and the snout was slightly undersized. If you buy one, make sure these areas are checked before assembly.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Florida
i had a cast eagle 383 crank break while driving down the road in ~2003. they replaced it under warranty and i paid the difference to upgrade to forged. that crank was fine, the guy i sold the motor to went low 8s/high 7s i think.
eagle makes good stuff.
eagle makes good stuff.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2022
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Thanks for the reassuring words, I would have hated having this crank and be worried about breaking it if I even wanted to have fun with the pedal to the floor. Good to have peace of mind with all of the components.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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For me and my plans, I wouldn't be able to take advantage of the natural torque the 383 has and I would like to be able to rev it higher and safer. You make a good point too; not totally right to judge a company with how their reputation was years ago.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: May 2004
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From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
I'll 3rd the opinion of going forged and 383. Trust us, you enjoy every bit of that 383. Even if you're not boring it, you can keep stock bore and still stroke it. Just be sure to use a 6" rod kit.
You will not regret it.
You will not regret it.
Out of curiosity, what's your definition "higher and safer..."? When my 396 was a solid roller my shift points were in the 7200rpm range.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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3600 stall and a turbo application would I even benefit ?
Last edited by Money_Pit; Aug 12, 2022 at 11:21 AM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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I am not sure what you all use your cars for but mine is still for the most part my daily and it is much safer to spin a fully built 350 to 6500 rpms than a 383. Also I wouldn’t want to destroy a multi thousand dollar motor so keeping it in a safe rpm range doesn’t hurt, I’m not racing for money.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2022
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I am not sure what you all use your cars for but mine is still for the most part my daily and it is much safer to spin a fully built 350 to 6500 rpms than a 383. Also I wouldn’t want to destroy a multi thousand dollar motor so keeping it in a safe rpm range doesn’t hurt, I’m not racing for money.
Not trying to change your mind. Just giving you the facts.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Florida
none of those factors matter at such low rpm. its hardly any more stroke. MAYBE if it was all stock it could matter but not a modern aftermarket bottom end. 20 years ago i happily turned my 383 76-7800 rpm on a daily basis for years.
Quality parts, attention to details and good maintenance, I'd expect a lot of daily fun from a 383/396 LT1 measured in smiles per gallon 😀😃🙂🙃
SBC & LT1's have a nice fat lower/mid range rpm torque curve that's very well suited for daily driving ... adding cubes ...to 383 or 396 just makes what was good...GREAT about the LT1.
I've racked up ~700,000 miles daily driving 3rd & 4th Gen F-body's....very little of that is higher than 5,000+ rpm...the high rpm stuff matters racing or having fun on back roads etc but not very much on the daily drive or kicking around town.
For a properly built 383 LT1, 6,500 rpm isn't an issue from what I saw back in the day. Finding a quality builder could be an issue.
There were three such 383/396 LT1's running around locally back in the day. Too much NOS killed one, too much boost killed another and the last was going strong at ~12+ years that kept the boost moderate.
There was also a pair of 396 LT1's thrown by parts slappers that came apart within weeks of being built.
I don't recall any issues at all with the trio of NA only 383/396 LT1's in my local club - other than an occasional new water pump and opti-spark. These cars were all high 10's low 11's and frequently drag raced. They were built correctly etc.
SBC & LT1's have a nice fat lower/mid range rpm torque curve that's very well suited for daily driving ... adding cubes ...to 383 or 396 just makes what was good...GREAT about the LT1.
I've racked up ~700,000 miles daily driving 3rd & 4th Gen F-body's....very little of that is higher than 5,000+ rpm...the high rpm stuff matters racing or having fun on back roads etc but not very much on the daily drive or kicking around town.
For a properly built 383 LT1, 6,500 rpm isn't an issue from what I saw back in the day. Finding a quality builder could be an issue.
There were three such 383/396 LT1's running around locally back in the day. Too much NOS killed one, too much boost killed another and the last was going strong at ~12+ years that kept the boost moderate.
There was also a pair of 396 LT1's thrown by parts slappers that came apart within weeks of being built.
I don't recall any issues at all with the trio of NA only 383/396 LT1's in my local club - other than an occasional new water pump and opti-spark. These cars were all high 10's low 11's and frequently drag raced. They were built correctly etc.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2022
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Ill be going to lloyd for all of my valvetrain needs, if he is still around then; I hear the scorpion brand is good. I figured ARP bolts would be just fine, along with a girdle, I will look into main caps if recommended. I dont mind being given new ideas and facts, these forum threads are a gold mine of information. Ive learned a lot about turbos from the turbo forums and surprisingly, the old slant six forums.
Last edited by Money_Pit; Aug 12, 2022 at 04:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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I have seen fantastic dynos on lt1s and its insane how they hold their power all the way through, or even right near the end (4500 rpm) their torque falls off and the horse power sky rockets, or at the very least, take over and keep the power band flat. Id like to cash in that low end power, and shift it all over for a better top end.
There are a lot of reputable builders that are only an hour drive from where I am. They all do fantastic jobs on the one or two things they do. Its just a bout a year or more wait time; common complaint I see but honestly its not too important.
They are incredibly reliable engines; I think the reverse flow cooling helped out too. It is crazy how the opti was almost the death of them. Thankfully, there are many ways around that issue, such as a coil on plug conversion kit, and with a carburetor, you wont tear your head out dealing with computer bs.
There are a lot of reputable builders that are only an hour drive from where I am. They all do fantastic jobs on the one or two things they do. Its just a bout a year or more wait time; common complaint I see but honestly its not too important.
They are incredibly reliable engines; I think the reverse flow cooling helped out too. It is crazy how the opti was almost the death of them. Thankfully, there are many ways around that issue, such as a coil on plug conversion kit, and with a carburetor, you wont tear your head out dealing with computer bs.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2022
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So I went back and tried to search for another crank, made by Scat, and I found this( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet ) Same thing, but it is a crank for a 5.7 inch rod. I read that you can use six in rods with a crank made for 5.7 inch rods but not the other way around. Can any one confirm this and explain why cranks would be made for different rod lengths ?