This is my first "build" so bear with me.

Current state of vehicle/engine:

• Heads are off and are receiving a 3 angle valve job from a local machine shop. They are also milling them and installing my new springs.
• Cam and timing chain/sprockets are also out

How I think I'm supposed to reassemble based on what I've read (Feel free to correct any misunderstanding - all the guides I've read have the heads still on)

• Install crank sprocket
• Position crank sprocket dot at 12 0'clock. #1 piston should be at top of bore (..as well as #6?)
• Install camshaft
• Install camshaft sprocket
• Position camshaft sprocket dot at 6 o'clock
• Install chain without disrupting dot positions
• Install lifters - these should be fully recessed in the block for piston (as this is TDC)
• Install heads (following proper torque sequence)
• Setting valve lash / adjusting rockers / figuring out pushrod length is a topic for another day - one miracle at a time.

On a related note... I have to replace my oil pan (error from previous mechanic - stripped oil drain plug) - does the timing cover go on first or does the oil pan? Since I had to loosen the pan to get the cover off, I assume the cover goes on first.

...Does this all sound right?

 

Not sure what you mean here? If they are pretty much stock lifter bodys the lifters will stick out of the lifter bores if they are on any part of the cam lobe ramp. They do have a tendency (again, if stock style lifter bore) to go flush to the lifter bore when on the base part of the lobe.
Adjusting valves- most accurate way is EOIC. I explain it in a video here:
That is on a solid roller, but the principle is the same with valve adjustment when valves are closed.


Other than that, sounds good. Timing cover goes on first. There are flanges on the bottom inside and outside of the timing cover that straddles the front of the oil pan. You'll see what I mean.

 

Well, this is embarrassing - I have a fundamental wrong. I was thinking the top of the lifters would go up and down with the rotation of the camshaft.

These are Morel 7717 lifters, they were recommended by Tick for the Hatermaker cam.

@SS RRR While I have your attention - you mentioned in the "Why do you keep your LT1" thread that a lot of bad bearings came from bad installers letting the engine became contaminated with dirt/contaminants. Is there anyway to verify I didn't contaminate anything?

If I contaminated a coolant passage, I could probably do the shbox flushing method?

If it's an oil passage contamination, I figure it'd be in the first oil change or at the bottom of my old pan.

I tried to treat my engine bay like an operating table - but mistakes do happen.

EDIT: Also, saved your video for later.

 

They do. Maybe I misunderstood what you were saying? I'm just saying as the lifters reciprocate the tops of the lifter bodys do not recess into the block. Apologies if I did not understand what you meant.

The main issue regarding a clean install is to ensure your work environment is clean and your hands are clean when handling new parts. Make sure all innards which are exposed to the outside (lifter valley specifically) are covered with clean shop rags or paper towels. If the oil pan is still on and the timing cover is off the oil pan will stick out a fair amount and it acts as a catch all for any sort of gasket material or sealant to make its way into the pan. That too needs to be covered with a clean shop rag or paper towel.
Before stabbing the cam ensure the entire camshaft is covered with either a heavy weight oil or install lube. Examine both lobes and journals carefully to ensure there are no dings that can damage bearings or rollers on lifters. You really have to be careful if the engine is in the car to make sure the cam snout does not bang up against the radiator support or you can gouge the journal. What I've always done is after installing the cam is to get an oil pump priming tool. Since that part of the engine is under the cowl I had to cut the tool down in order to make room for a right angle drill to fit under there. I change the oil with fresh "cheaper/parts store brand" oil and then run the oil pump for several minutes to ensure the rear cam journals are lubed. One other instance I did not mention in that thread are people who do not lube the cam properly, install it and either use the starter to turn the engine/oil pump to prime or simply start it. I've ran the engine with that same oil and go around the block just cruising to ensure everything is good and then change it to one of the more popular brand oils.

 

We just had to change the passagener side front blinker bulb and the blinker connectors month ago then just couple of days ago had to do the driver's side up front and after that abs isn't working,trackion control isn't working,flashers isn't working,brake lights isn't working either .I need help badly cause I don't know what's wrong with it

 

By recessed, I meant the lifters would be in the lowest position, which would mean the valves, if they were connected to the engine would be closed.

This might be a redundant step since I assume the timing sprocket can only go on one way, which means if the dots line up, it has to be correct.

Since my oil pan is being replaced, dirt/grime from the timing cover area shouldn't be too much of a concern.

I was more concerned about the old head gasket material getting into passages.

Is there an issue with the rear cam journals being lubricated?

 

...Is there a new rule that prohibits users from making new threads?

 

Yep.

Shop vac is real handy for vacuuming out any debris out of coolant passages and cylinders.
The way I look at it is during cam install, every time the rear journals pass through a bearing it skims off lubricant, so they are not as well lubricated as the front most journal. By priming the engine then they are all well lubricated before startup. That's just me and my hang up with installing a cam. YMMV.