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If you’re replacing manifolds then you’ll have to get header bolts, and you can do away with that silly bracket that bolts from one of the header bolts on the exhaust flange of #2 to the alternator. I’d recommend ARP stainless 3/8x1” SBC header bolts.
That’s pretty much your only option if you’re still having to run cats. If not, go longtubes all day and every day. Stock LT1 exhaust is a YUUUUUUGE restriction.
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Buy those if you want the most horrific, wrench throwing bad language install you will ever attempt. Holley/Hooker designed these waaaayy back when because there was an immediate demand for something other than stock. So whoever designed these was either really drunk and thought it was funny or some guys wanted to play a cruel joke on consumers. Either way, they sold a bunch of them
There are still quite a few companies that offer long tubes. That's your best bet.
I would love to run long tube headers but the California smog man will bust me. Is there other smog legal alternatives?
if not, I might just also replace plugs and wires since I’m going to be going they the headache of installing them.
These headers here seem to be shaped better and come with a good Y pipe. They also have ports for the air pump to be connected. So smog may still be able to be passed but I think in cali you are not allowed to change anything on a car.
these do look better unfortunately they are for the 95 and not California legal. We have it ruff down here when it come to performance
Originally Posted by Money_Pit
These headers here seem to be shaped better and come with a good Y pipe. They also have ports for the air pump to be connected. So smog may still be able to be passed but I think in cali you are not allowed to change anything on a car.
I had the Edlebrocks which were shaped just like this. I want to say the back bolts on the drivers side had to be tightened from underneath. It’s been a minute. Can’t remember.
I don’t think the exhaust ports would be any different on those years. You could also leave everything stock for smog checks and then do a swap after.
’95’s and earlier are single cat, OBDI cars. ‘96-‘97 are dual cat. If in CA and trying to be legit the aftermarket exhaust must have a CARB EO number and remain dual cat. Putting a single cat exhaust on a dual cat car is a big no no as far as emissions is concerned.
Headers on the way!
I ordered gaskets, stainless bolts anything else I should order or replace while I am at it.
Also, what gasket does it take where the headers meet the pipe?
to pass CA emission any header you use must have a CARB EO # and sticker. # on header must match sticker. Just having provisions for air pump tube won't cut it. Unfortunately, that cost the header company big $ so most can't afford it given a very small market for 25 year old F bodys. "Some" smog shops may not care but they are a rare find
It's gotten pretty brutal out here in the last 3 years. BAR (bureau of automotive repair) sends out sting cars with a minor emission violation to see if shops will pass it....and if so $10k fine and likely loss of license...so the $250 "friend" smog test is gone.
The new law looking for CVN (calibration verification numbers) fortunately does not affect 4th gen as these old PCM's just did not have that in their software. 2007 and on, you are done if you changed the PCM. Mostly after ricers and the diesel tuners for rolling cool crap. Thank VW for starting that shiat show and the diesel tuner stuff.
and yeah the F heads in Sacramento want to ban all new gas powered cars by 2035....but they have yet to figure out how to replace the highest state gas tax in the nation if there are no more gas powered cars.....there will likely be a HUGE tax on charging stations...the crap will not end, the air will not get better as a result....but I digress
I still have my 96 which is far from stock but I do have CA legal Edelbrock headers on it. I pass smog but did have to buy exploding walled OBD2/CARB CATS last time as they were done....but it passed. The "new CATS are registered and I keep those cards in glove box in case some smog Karen has a ? about them. They are made by MagnaFlo
My experience in over 25 years dealing with OBD2 cars and CA smog is you need the sticker with the EO# and the part needs to have that model/part # on it that matches the part # (s) on the EO assigned #
In the multiple smog colonics, I have endured, every part (aftermarket) that can be seen, and some they can't, has a EO # and sticker. These would be for: MSD 6A box, Comp 1:6 RR, Hypertech 160 stat, K&N intake, Edelbrock headers. My new exploding walled OBD2/CARB MagnaFlo CATS do not have a sticker but do have a registration card for each one corresponding to the stamped 411 on each CAT
I know the BAR Referee has the book showing all the EO #'s to compare with a sticker that should have come with the CARB approved item. You never want to see a referee...their job is to find something and fail you
Contact Holly. Their description says they are 50 state legal and have an EO# so they should have a sticker.
With that said certainly keep the receipt if it does have the EO# and notes the part # it applies to, and I assume the headers have a welded plate on one of the primary tubes with the model # of header on it...."maybe" that will suffice at a smog check. Yes it should suffice....but again smog check in CA is beyond stupid
I thought the same thing. All I seen on the headers is a part number and a plate that says hooker.
I will post a pic of the sticker and headers once they are back from being ceramic coated.
My experience in over 25 years dealing with OBD2 cars and CA smog is you need the sticker with the EO# and the part needs to have that model/part # on it that matches the part # (s) on the EO assigned #
In the multiple smog colonics, I have endured, every part (aftermarket) that can be seen, and some they can't, has a EO # and sticker. These would be for: MSD 6A box, Comp 1:6 RR, Hypertech 160 stat, K&N intake, Edelbrock headers. My new exploding walled OBD2/CARB MagnaFlo CATS do not have a sticker but do have a registration card for each one corresponding to the stamped 411 on each CAT
I know the BAR Referee has the book showing all the EO #'s to compare with a sticker that should have come with the CARB approved item. You never want to see a referee...their job is to find something and fail you
Contact Holly. Their description says they are 50 state legal and have an EO# so they should have a sticker.
With that said certainly keep the receipt if it does have the EO# and notes the part # it applies to, and I assume the headers have a welded plate on one of the primary tubes with the model # of header on it...."maybe" that will suffice at a smog check. Yes it should suffice....but again smog check in CA is beyond stupid
Tuning here in Houston beat my requirements. I mean, they're supposed to check under the car, but ive never seen them do it even on normal cars. Just mirrors for taillights but nothing to check exhaust underneath. If no Check Engine light, you're good to go. Would tuning out the checks work, or do they use more sophisticated software?
Also, seconded on the PITA install, these are the same as the Pacesetter offering, i believe the same factory, but different coating and QC checks. Could be wrong, alot of the header companies changed stuff up and i didn't keep up.
The Edelbrock, and I assume the Hookers being discussed, have the "part #" stamped on the welded header tube plate. The "sticker" has the EO # and the associated part #'s it applies to. It's the sticker that you need corresponding to the headers you have. Just like the sticker accompanying a smog legal CAI or other part like MSD box that have stickers you must attach to vehicle
Typically the smog shops don't have the EO # listing book so it's the sticker they have to visually see. The BAR Referee has the book...but he is a guy you never want to see.... especially if you have a "sticker" that was...let's say printed to mimic a real one. This was the case when people bought the ebay stickers for the air pump "disable" sticker GM would provide when they disabled air pumps on B bodies that had "disable" changed to "delete". The language "disable" did not mean "delete" which some who chose the fake stickers found out the hard way
Regarding being able to program the IM to show "ready" all the time, yes that can be done....or so I have read...cough. A few years ago CA smog changed to only allow 1 IM monitor to show not ready. The EGR and CAT heat were 2 that are often problematic even if you have both regardless on how many miles you drive after the battery gets disconnected. The tedious GM drive cycle which basically requires you to have your own track or risk wrecking on public roads to follow to reset them and on heads and cam cars they often never reset so programing them to show always ready, I have read, eliminates that issue on CA smog test.
Im in Houston, and its pretty strict on the books. Anything OBDII cant have a CEL and must have a complete drive cycle. In my experience, no one ever checks under the car, and they all did their own thing to fool the gas cap. Only at big shops that record employees do they do it the "correct" way.
I had LTs, no cats and a Solomon Tune. Had rear o2 checks, EVAP and AIR/SMOG checks tuned out, or "always ready". Got two inspections plugged up, both times they did whatever to gas cap tester to fool it. Common failure point here i guess due to humidity and sea level. All i can say is i passed both times at different shops with no questions.
Hey Guys
Quick update.. after basically rebuilding the headers they are on the car! We also did the spark plugs, plug wires with boots, rear stainless lines, aluminum driveshaft, rear axle cover and powder coated the valve covers and strut bar. Car runs even better, I can’t wait to have it tuned so it ties everything together
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Hooker shorty headers 
