When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes you'll need to weld a bung in, but you should have some exhaust from the donor for this no?
The donor had long tube headers and it was really scrappy…..only had one O2 sensor anyways. I’ll get this sorted out.
Things should start moving along a little quicker. The last three weekends in a row have been non-stop family stuff from paintball tournaments with my boys, birthdays, football games ect ect. I should have the next two weeks to dedicate to this.
have you tried just 1 bank only? or was there a stronger signal with 1 in each bank?
Mine has a PCV valve on the driver bank. Then the passenger bank is plumbed to the catch can. Then the catch can outlet goes into a fitting on each exhaust pipe. I have seen guys use a single check valve after a Y-pipe too. Since mine is dual to the muffler, I figured a check valve in both pipes would generate more vacuum. My crankcase has about 3-4 in/hg vacuum at idle and climbs up to about 8-10 in/hg at WOT.
Decided to pull it from the top. Engine and trans are out.
Started removing the engine wiring harness…..WTF!!! The car harness and engine harness is all tied together. Is one huge mess. Spent half the day peeling the tape off and trying to make sense of things. I think I’m just gonna scrap it all in favor of a basic car harness and power the engine harness from it.
Coleman 2 pc rotors and calipers with willwood hats. Cheap and just as good as stoptech. Last longer too I think. Rings are $88 and rebuild the calipers with 4 cheap o-rings.
The hub is modified. It was the original 3rd Gen brake rotor/hub. The rotor section of the hub is completely machined down to match the hat size of whatever rotor hat you choose.
They are not floating rotors. I honestly don’t know for sure how long they last. These brakes had many track sessions on it before I bought it in 2018. I ran 7 weekends on these brakes and just before Hallett 2021 I found one of the rotors was cracked. So what you see is a fresh set of HAWK DTC60 and these rotors.
I don’t know any other brakes to compare them to. I suppose they are as good as stoptech, but idk really. I think they are poor man’s brake choice. I like them. I think they are mainly used by dirt and circle track racing.
I know it's a budget build, but I do really wish you would've put in a true roller chain. On the track with the engine quickly slowing down/accelerating the timing chain is going get a whole lot of that load.
I know it's a budget build, but I do really wish you would've put in a true roller chain. On the track with the engine quickly slowing down/accelerating the timing chain is going get a whole lot of that load.
Now you tell me. I honestly had this timing set laying around. I have a different LT1 Shortblock going to the shop for balancing, and then it'll get built up with the better stuff. Surely this timing set will last a couple seasons.
... and it's not that big a deal to replace it. Especially in that car. Cleaning the damned gasket material off the block takes longer than taking it apart.
Meh. My LT4 timing chain was sloppy AF back in 2015. It was also horrible earlier this year. I slapped in a new link chain and gear setup, I don't anticipate it's gonna die in the near future.
I dunno.... ever since a friend of mine simply slammed on his brakes to avoid an object on the road and broke his stock chain I haven't trusted them. His '97 was barely a year old when this happened. I have also read this happening a few times over the years on these interweb sites.
This wiring stuff has been slowing me down. Overwhelming at first but now I’ve got all the tape and covering off of the bundles. Im starting to make sense of it all. Before I started this wiring project, I was hoping that the engine harness was standalone and not all intertwined with the other basic car circuits. But I have to peel this onion back one layer at a time.
For the whole engine swap project now is the time to fix other small issues. I have never had a working tachometer, voltmeter, and I’ve uncovered some radiator support damage (from previous owner). The radiator was smooshed and JBWELDED. It didn’t leak on me, so I’m gonna send it, but I’m gonna straighten out the support and fix some corrosion issues while I’m there.
So, finally separated the TPI harness from the rest of the car circuits. Was able to keep the TPI harness intact. I have future plans to put this engine is another project.
Next step, engine bay cleaning and then it’s time to stuff this LT1 in the bay and bolt everything up. Fingers crossed my Canton Oil Pan doesn’t contact the cross member and the engine mounts just bolt right up. The LT1 is just a SBC on the bottom side of the block right? So theoretically it should fit just like the 305 did. Well see if that plays out the way I am thinking…..Also got the Spohn T56 crossmember so that should bolt up.
Ok, so……WTF is this??? It is feeding the ECU some kind of parameter but I have no idea what…..It’s a homemade circuit board. Any ideas?
Would not have the foggiest what that gizmo is. You could try and post that up on thirdgen.org, if they're still around? As far as LT1 being the same as a traditional SBC... I can't rightly remember, but check the mounting holes for the motor mounts on the LT1 if you haven't already. I thought they were different for some reason?
Would not have the foggiest what that gizmo is. You could try and post that up on thirdgen.org, if they're still around? As far as LT1 being the same as a traditional SBC... I can't rightly remember, but check the mounting holes for the motor mounts on the LT1 if you haven't already. I thought they were different for some reason?
Picked up this 305 roller block which was machined several years ago but never built up. It will replace the cracked block TPI. $100 coulda probably got it for free.
305 engine Mount holes passenger side. 305 engine Mount holes driver side. LT1 Mount holes look the same to me. Fingers crossed. Supposedly it a all the same.
Last edited by 64GunPilot; 11-10-2022 at 01:06 PM.
Would not have the foggiest what that gizmo is. You could try and post that up on thirdgen.org, if they're still around? As far as LT1 being the same as a traditional SBC... I can't rightly remember, but check the mounting holes for the motor mounts on the LT1 if you haven't already. I thought they were different for some reason?
I was able to talk to the previous owner. That little circuit board is a VATS defeat board apparently.
I was gonna say the same. I fear some day my VATS delete may fail me, I'd rather delete it via the PCM itself. That apparatus predates the rules allowing you to do so.
Picked up this 305 roller block which was machined several years ago but never built up. It will replace the cracked block TPI. $100 coulda probably got it for free.
305 engine Mount holes passenger side. 305 engine Mount holes driver side. LT1 Mount holes look the same to me. Fingers crossed. Supposedly it a all the same.
10-31-2022, 01:27 AM
