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305 TPI Upside down. This thing lived throughout all of my HPDE / Comp School with this JBWeld sealing the crack block. JBWeld does good. On the other side of the block the freeze plug popped out and saved it. This side…….not so much. Smooshed the water jacket out a good 1/16th of an inch.
I needed to steal three main cap bolts from the 305 to replace the three cap studs so my canton pan would fit. I torqued in three incremental sets to 70ftlbs. While I was there, couldn’t help but take a peek at what suspected as totally jacked bearings.
This is ok right??? 🫢🫢🫢
Pulled and cleaned up the Canton Pan. Bought a new melling oil pump, installed a 70psi bypass spring, installed and torqued. Checked oil pickup clearance, adjusted to 3/8” and installed the oil pan. Also engine mounts bolted up.
I would have welded that block back shut and sent it. You gonna roll that cheater oil pan over to the LTJuan? The factory one isn't great.
Considered it many times. Thought about muggy weld. Honestly I was just gonna clean that JBWeld off and plaster on another fresh coat. Lasted two years why not? But when the bottom end went, that’s when I figured I’d go for something different, that can rev passed 4500rpm.
That canton pan is installed on the LT1. Fit like a glove.
Looking at it again, you just chipped the JB off to reveal that original wound didn't you? While well worn, that bearing doesn't look like the end of the world. Your failure is somewhere else.
Yea I’m pretty sure what happened. My X-wife put ground metal into my oil. Sounds crazy….but she later asked me if I was having problems with the racecar. And my boys overheard her boyfriend telling her how to do it. I honestly think he came and did it himself the night before we left for Hallett. It was loaded up on my trailer open to the world unsecure. Was easy for anyone to do that sorta thing. Need an enclosed trailer I can lock up. She’s done stuff like that before. I had cameras installed because of her and her crap.
So……welcome to my life!
Back to racecar stuff: Cleaned up the engine bay.
Before Before Before After cleaning After cleaning After cleaning
Nah man. She got a chunk of change up front but that’s paid off and I’m free of all that mess.
I start terminal leave July of next year. 💪
Hell yeah! I'm not far behind you, if I don't bother with Skillbridge then my house/job hunting PTDY and terminal will start in the Christmas area of 2024. If I do, back it up from there. I won't PCS between now and then either. It's so weird to be in control and to be able to plan that far out. I like it.
1. Installed a 1988 Cavalier Slave Cylinder. Supposedly the easiest way to get the T56 clutch throws right with 3rd gen pedals.
2. Got the engine and trans bolted up. Engine mounts went in super easy. But not a fan of the Spohn crossmember. Took several hours of modifications to get it to work and even then it hangs 2-3inches lower than anything else under the car and it’s gonna make exhaust rerouting difficult.
Had to cut this off. Maybe my poly Mount was too thick IDK. Don’t judge me by my driveshaft. After mods Crossmember hangs super low. End of the day.
Anyone know a part number to a universal joint that I can use the T56 yoke and 3rd Gen driveshaft? The caps are different sized. Would need a combination u-joint.
Hell yeah! I'm not far behind you, if I don't bother with Skillbridge then my house/job hunting PTDY and terminal will start in the Christmas area of 2024. If I do, back it up from there. I won't PCS between now and then either. It's so weird to be in control and to be able to plan that far out. I like it.
Feels good doesn’t it! Glad to hear your almost there too. Proud to have served but 54 months deployed in some of the harshest of places has worn me out. It’s beyond time for me to move on.
Wish I had some good pictures of it. Being in a van its a complete PITA to get clean pictures. This is the basic idea. It just has two check valves, one in each exhaust pipe. My catch can is on the frame rail.
From our CMC Rules. So……this is not legal in our class.
6.18.4 The engine may not be vented to the exhaust or any other vacuum system other than the engine air intake.
Forgot about that. Back when I ran the stock crank vent setup, which consisted of a single wee 3/8" or 7/16" hose from a VC to the throttle body, I managed to blow enough oil past the rear main at Hallett in 2019 to wipe out the clutch in the final. It held enough for me to keep my spot though. So I swapped in a not wiped out clutch and a new rear main for the next event. I also got a bug up my *** to better vent the crank. Friday night, when I arrived at the track, I swapped in a truck valve cover on the driver's side and ran a heater core plastic elbow out of it, through a chunk of 5/8" hose, to a Coors can zip tied to the bumper beam. During warmup, I was straight MOTORING the other cars. It was beyond obvious, so I choked down a size or 2 on the old restrictor until I wasn't anymore. I was shocked at the difference in power that I realized. By my estimation it was on the order of 15whp. To this day I run that valve cover, but now with a 3/4" hose into a proper can with a petcock drain set up for a 16oz water bottle. I went from losing 2-3 quarts that weekend in Hallett back down around 1/2qt for the weekend, often closer to 12 oz.
Forgot about that. Back when I ran the stock crank vent setup, which consisted of a single wee 3/8" or 7/16" hose from a VC to the throttle body, I managed to blow enough oil past the rear main at Hallett in 2019 to wipe out the clutch in the final. It held enough for me to keep my spot though. So I swapped in a not wiped out clutch and a new rear main for the next event. I also got a bug up my *** to better vent the crank. Friday night, when I arrived at the track, I swapped in a truck valve cover on the driver's side and ran a heater core plastic elbow out of it, through a chunk of 5/8" hose, to a Coors can zip tied to the bumper beam. During warmup, I was straight MOTORING the other cars. It was beyond obvious, so I choked down a size or 2 on the old restrictor until I wasn't anymore. I was shocked at the difference in power that I realized. By my estimation it was on the order of 15whp. To this day I run that valve cover, but now with a 3/4" hose into a proper can with a petcock drain set up for a 16oz water bottle. I went from losing 2-3 quarts that weekend in Hallett back down around 1/2qt for the weekend, often closer to 12 oz.
The increase in power comes from increased ring seal and more compression? Interesting.
The increase in power comes from increased ring seal and more compression? Interesting.
On a motor with a bunch of blowby, yes. Back when the rebuild was fresh, it wasn't a problem with the stock setup. But now that I have vented it this way, I'm back down on the same 35mm plate as I was when it was fresh, using the same amount of oil. Seems like a no brainier to me. I did something similar to my dually and it was a game changer too. I added a 3/4" breather hose coming out of the oil cap and routed that back to the intake. It now burns a fraction of the oil that my 1500 does with a 350.
The steam port goes back to the radiator below the cap. Those rubber caps on the pump WILL fail, especially being zip tied on. I drilled and tapped my pump for threaded fittings after a pressed in elbow stopped being pressed in. IIRC the 92 Corvette pump had the fewest fittings.
Are you just trying to vent the PCV line from valve cover to TB or am I missing something?
Im not trying to do anything. Fast355 was telling us how to create a vacuum and suck the CC into and out the exhaust. I was kicking the idea around to do this until I found it in my race class rulebook that it is not allowed.
The steam port goes back to the radiator below the cap. Those rubber caps on the pump WILL fail, especially being zip tied on. I drilled and tapped my pump for threaded fittings after a pressed in elbow stopped being pressed in. IIRC the 92 Corvette pump had the fewest fittings.
So you think if I put some clamps on those caps they will still fail?
11-12-2022, 07:07 PM
