Harmonic Balancer
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
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From: Miami Beach, Florida
Harmonic Balancer I’m at the stages to start giving the car some TLC. As nitpicky as one can be, how can I be sure the factory Harmonic Balancer is working 100% as it should? I’d like to prevent premature engine bearing wear. 167k miles, recently replaced with new NGK laser iridium plugs, wires, and Bosch II 24lb injectors (2 factory ones failed within a month). Still chasing a (not as smooth as before) engine.
TECH Veteran
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IDK what kind of car you have, but with 167k mi, 25+year old car, a stock damper is done. Typical sign is small cracks in the rubber ring between hub and damper
Top shelf is ATI if you regularly spin your motor above 5500 rpm. Otherwise a stock replacement type is fine
Top shelf is ATI if you regularly spin your motor above 5500 rpm. Otherwise a stock replacement type is fine
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
To be frank, im even more confused on what to do the more I read up on balancers. I don’t regularly drive 5500rpm and above but I do regularly drive 3000-4000 for long periods of time with the cars gearing and long road trips cross country. So is Fluidampr, powerbond, ATI, and the stock replacement by SKP on rock auto and I’m more lost on that vs choosing a cam. Budget ~$200. What would you choose? I’m okay with something slightly better than stock.
To be frank, im even more confused on what to do the more I read up on balancers. I don’t regularly drive 5500rpm and above but I do regularly drive 3000-4000 for long periods of time with the cars gearing and long road trips cross country. So is Fluidampr, powerbond, ATI, and the stock replacement by SKP on rock auto and I’m more lost on that vs choosing a cam. Budget ~$200. What would you choose? I’m okay with something slightly better than stock.
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I shift at 6300 RPM at the track and have an internally balanced 383 so chose the ATI (10% under drive) given it is balanced to 10k rpm. Requires a shorter belt. If your use is not that then a stock replacement or a "Summit" brand would be fine. Typically a balanced one, in this case you want neutral, aka zero, like the stock one you will see various drill holes or pins inserted in holes around the balancer showing it was balanced
FWIW I have a 357 crate motor in another car, 67 Camaro, that shifts at 6500rpm and I have a Proform one on it. Drive it at 3-3.5k rpm all day. Its a rear balanced motor just like the LT1 which uses a neutral balanced damper
FWIW I have a 357 crate motor in another car, 67 Camaro, that shifts at 6500rpm and I have a Proform one on it. Drive it at 3-3.5k rpm all day. Its a rear balanced motor just like the LT1 which uses a neutral balanced damper
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
@LTX,
You've received great advice from the other members here. If you're looking for an LT1 balancer for the Camaro/Firebird spacing around $200 we'd recommend the PRW PQX-2335040. These are a nice in-between of OEM replacements and SFI-rated "race" balancers. Unlike most OEM dampers, the PRW balancer has a splined hub and ring to prevent radial movement of the outer ring. Made from nodular iron, these balancers are about 30% stronger than OEM units made from gray iron. If you wanted to get into an SFI-rated balancer, you're looking at $300+. That would be something like the PRW PQX-2435040 or PowerBond PBB-PB1481SS.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
You've received great advice from the other members here. If you're looking for an LT1 balancer for the Camaro/Firebird spacing around $200 we'd recommend the PRW PQX-2335040. These are a nice in-between of OEM replacements and SFI-rated "race" balancers. Unlike most OEM dampers, the PRW balancer has a splined hub and ring to prevent radial movement of the outer ring. Made from nodular iron, these balancers are about 30% stronger than OEM units made from gray iron. If you wanted to get into an SFI-rated balancer, you're looking at $300+. That would be something like the PRW PQX-2435040 or PowerBond PBB-PB1481SS.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
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From: Miami Beach, Florida
This is the new one.
This is the old one still on the car.
As you can see the old one has a little arrow right downward. If you look at the new one, am I installing where the tip of the triangle is on the new one, the same direction as where the little triangle is on the old one?
Last edited by LTX; Jun 22, 2025 at 12:27 PM.
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From: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
@LTX,
Your assumption is right. The arrow on the stock LT1 balancer and the machined triangle on the replacement both accomplish the same thing. They’re visual aids to help clock the balancer during installation. These balancers are designed to bolt to the crank hub in only one orientation, thanks to the offset 3-bolt pattern. When lined up correctly, the arrow or triangle should point toward a small rib or nub on the crank hub itself.
Your assumption is right. The arrow on the stock LT1 balancer and the machined triangle on the replacement both accomplish the same thing. They’re visual aids to help clock the balancer during installation. These balancers are designed to bolt to the crank hub in only one orientation, thanks to the offset 3-bolt pattern. When lined up correctly, the arrow or triangle should point toward a small rib or nub on the crank hub itself.
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