i want to put a new cam into my stock internal lt1, but i dont know what the best grind would be to run with a mildly tuned computer. I have talked to thunder racing and i have the specs off of a crane cam that im interested in that will work with my setup. i dont have access locally to get a dyno tune for my computer, so im just going to sacrifice a huge cam and get a mild grind to bump up the stock numbers. all suggestions welcome.

 

A cam will probably only net you somewhere around 15-20hp with you mods. What exactly do you consider large? The HOT cam works very well in stock or modified LT1/4 engines 218/228 @ ".050 112 LSA. Even some of the off shelf Comp Cams grinds would work very well too... What are your plans? Just a cam, or will you do more? Are emissions a concern there? Drivability?

You will get even more HP if you do the supporting mods. Remember an engine is an air pump... and you want to move as much air as possible. Treating an engine as a system will help you make the best power. Heads, and headers help the engine breath a lot better in addition to the cam. When money allows I would do long tube headers, and heads... then you'll pick up even more power.

I'm building a lower mileage LT1 engine with a stock short block for my 1990 Chevy 1500 Silverado Standard Cab. I'm going to install the Comp Cams 502: 218/224 @".050 112 LSA. This will give good torque, horsepower and drivability since it has a relatively low amount of overlap compared to other cams. The truck will have mid-length headers, and I did a home port on the heads (mild bowl work... valve guide boss reshaping... port bias work... combustion chamber polishing etc...) So this cam will work well with my engine since I maybe picked up 15-20 CFM and it will have headers.

I wouldn’t really go bigger than the HOT cam with stock heads because the engine can’t move any more air. Heads and headers will be a big improvement along with a cam. Remember with a cam you WILL have to change the springs, and roller rockers would be highly recommended. The stock computer will work OK with one of these cams, but tune is also recommended to get max performance and drivability…. Umm yeah I think I probably gave you more than you wanted to know! Good luck and have fun !

 

Go over to CZ28.com... a few people see up to 350rwhp on stock heads with the 306 Ill let you know how it goes after I get my valve springs installed.

 

if i go for the cam install its going to include a valvetrain upgrade with roller rockers. its somewhat of a daily driver, but it sees a fair ammount of time on the strip as well. right now im between a new cam, higher stall converter, or nice set of headers. i have till this winter to make up my mind.

 

I know a guy here in my local car club making 370 at the wheels on stock heads...

 

Thats a nice cam that NavySS suggested to you . 218,224 with about 525lift and 112lda,get some 1.6 ratio rockers too.You really do need headers.

 

im gona have to add what 97'-lt1 and s8er95z had to say.. ive heard the stock LT1 heads r very capable of big things, especially when PP, CCed, milled etc.. seeing big numbers with good cam installs isnt uncommon..

 

thats what i had been hearing from a few guys that are local to where i live. im at college right now, so this project is on hold till i get to come home for christmas. i may just get my heads ported and invest in a good set of long tubes. one of my dads best friends owns a speed parts/machine shop w/ a flow bench so i can get port work done next to nothing.

 

I would get headers before you do a cam, otherwise, you are just going to be choking the cam and will see little gains from it. As Navy SS said, an engine is an air pump, and needs air flow in as well as out to run efficiently. CC306 cam is a strong cam as previously stated and can make some great #'s stock. You may also want to consider the GM 847 cam (234/242 @.50, .575/.595 w/1.6RR, 112 LSA), there are some strong #'s being made with this on stock heads as well.

 

I didn't see headers anywhere in your list of mods. Doing a cam before headers will be a waste. Longtube headers and a Y-pipe should get you 15rwhp when properly tuned, and maybe more. After you have headers - then get a cam. The guys hitting 350rwhp with a CC306 or GM847 cam on stock unported heads definitely have longtube headers as part of their equation.

There are a lot of things that go along with getting a cam that you might not think of straight off. Any non-stock cam will require hardened pushrods (if you don't have them already), better springs, retainers, and possibly new valves. All this, with the gaskets you'll need to do the swap, and a cam change can easily run over $1000. A CC306 or GM847 cam will NOT run well with a stock tune, and you may max out your stock 24# injectors. If you don't - you'll be damn close. Also, if you get a cam in this size range (~230-235* intake / ~235-240* exhaust; .55 or more lift) it may be (and likely is) too big for the size of stall converter you are running. IMO - limiting yourself to a cam that won't require you to recalibrate your computer won't get you the kind of power that you'll feel in the seat.

On the plus side, people with M6 cars have seen 400+rwhp with these larger cams, headers, and P&P'd LT1 heads. You WILL feel the difference with those mods.

 

What abou the Comp XE 224/230 cam? It's supposed to be the best cam for stock heads. With the 306 and the 847, tuning would be essential but with the 224/230, minimal or no tuning would be needed.

 

Have you considered a mail-order tune? www.pcmforless.com

 

I like my cc305