LT1 Dyno Archive
#301
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I have that same cam cc305 (not by choice) and it sucks for power i hate it. Idk if yours is on a 114 like mine but i took it to the track and it ran the same mph and et as my old tired 154,000 mile stock camed and head 95 motor. Thing of it that really sucks as the old engine was running 13.5 afr and the new one runs at 12.5, so i bet the old engine had more in it with some tuning.
#302
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Hm seen some good times and dynos before for the cc305. Might be other issues.
What other issues..Well have an lt1 and two common ones are phantom knock retard can take away like 50hp! and optis going bad..Sometimes no codes. My car had big issues from old plugs. I didnt change them and still have only changed 3/8 they were original. I keep waiting to do headers.
Buddies 94z which is pretty light has minor mods and has run 13.4 this year at 103 or so with a 2.0 60ft . He has mac headers, auto, 3.23 gears,new msd opti. Mailorder tuning to take out the phantom knock,underdrive, cold air. Thats about it. He is adding 2800 vig and cutout possibly modded ebay 52mm tb and mabye ls1 aluminum driveshaft.
My 96 has had issues said with phantom knock and the plugs and possibly fuel issues.
Make sure you change out fuel filters they also can hurt power bad.Change them out every couple of years.
I have cc305,mac headers, planning on afr 180 eliminators, have comp pro mag think 1.6 or 1.62? likely run cutout, have 2800 vig and 3.42 gears,asp underdrive,cold air, jet tuning to wipe out the phantom knock.
With heads and all that stuff would expect to see maybe 360 rwhp to 350rwhp on the dyno.That would be nearly 450 engine at 20% loss.Thats about all you can expect from an lt1 with the above parts. My ls1 is much stronger even stock. So much stronger that one buddy that ran insisted when both are cars were stock his auto 95 ta and my m6 99 ta that I had nitrous and made me show him under the hood,hatch etc. !!! And ls1 can usually easily hit around 400 to 420 range with intake,heads,cam,headers,bolt ons.
As for the above gaining nothing with the cc305 something wrong there.
You might need to change rev limit and shift points a bit higher. If you are auto. Ditto on manual. You should be close to 13.0 for afr not 12.5 or 13.5 .One is too rich stilll and one is too lean. You need to scan and make sure you have no phantom knock, good plugs, newer fuel filter,possibly pro clean your injectors,possibly put in new fuel pump.
Tune timing a bit for the new cam as well. Quite a bit of things to do. There is zero reason that the cc305 should not work well. Some 1.62 would bump lift up a bit more too. Buddy above forgot to say added 1.62 rockers and gained a couple of tenths and mph also .They are a good mod.
And again seen lots of lt1 running decent times with the old cc305 in their mods list and the stick cars and occasional auto cars with cc306 running great as well.
Maybe next year can give you guys a review on my cc305. I won't be installing it until buy my afr 180s and then do cam,headers, heads ,new msd opti ,new wires all at once.
I have run best of 14.2 at 96 with stall, 3.42,cold air,underdrive,52bbk tb. But as said have had issues with knock retard ,bad plugs and possibly dying opti.
Car is also heavy near 3900 pounds and track is 1600ft with terrible density air. Best 60ft was only 2.0 so far with et street radials.
I fully expect to see mid 12s with cam,headers and heads and cutout.See how it goes.
What other issues..Well have an lt1 and two common ones are phantom knock retard can take away like 50hp! and optis going bad..Sometimes no codes. My car had big issues from old plugs. I didnt change them and still have only changed 3/8 they were original. I keep waiting to do headers.
Buddies 94z which is pretty light has minor mods and has run 13.4 this year at 103 or so with a 2.0 60ft . He has mac headers, auto, 3.23 gears,new msd opti. Mailorder tuning to take out the phantom knock,underdrive, cold air. Thats about it. He is adding 2800 vig and cutout possibly modded ebay 52mm tb and mabye ls1 aluminum driveshaft.
My 96 has had issues said with phantom knock and the plugs and possibly fuel issues.
Make sure you change out fuel filters they also can hurt power bad.Change them out every couple of years.
I have cc305,mac headers, planning on afr 180 eliminators, have comp pro mag think 1.6 or 1.62? likely run cutout, have 2800 vig and 3.42 gears,asp underdrive,cold air, jet tuning to wipe out the phantom knock.
With heads and all that stuff would expect to see maybe 360 rwhp to 350rwhp on the dyno.That would be nearly 450 engine at 20% loss.Thats about all you can expect from an lt1 with the above parts. My ls1 is much stronger even stock. So much stronger that one buddy that ran insisted when both are cars were stock his auto 95 ta and my m6 99 ta that I had nitrous and made me show him under the hood,hatch etc. !!! And ls1 can usually easily hit around 400 to 420 range with intake,heads,cam,headers,bolt ons.
As for the above gaining nothing with the cc305 something wrong there.
You might need to change rev limit and shift points a bit higher. If you are auto. Ditto on manual. You should be close to 13.0 for afr not 12.5 or 13.5 .One is too rich stilll and one is too lean. You need to scan and make sure you have no phantom knock, good plugs, newer fuel filter,possibly pro clean your injectors,possibly put in new fuel pump.
Tune timing a bit for the new cam as well. Quite a bit of things to do. There is zero reason that the cc305 should not work well. Some 1.62 would bump lift up a bit more too. Buddy above forgot to say added 1.62 rockers and gained a couple of tenths and mph also .They are a good mod.
And again seen lots of lt1 running decent times with the old cc305 in their mods list and the stick cars and occasional auto cars with cc306 running great as well.
Maybe next year can give you guys a review on my cc305. I won't be installing it until buy my afr 180s and then do cam,headers, heads ,new msd opti ,new wires all at once.
I have run best of 14.2 at 96 with stall, 3.42,cold air,underdrive,52bbk tb. But as said have had issues with knock retard ,bad plugs and possibly dying opti.
Car is also heavy near 3900 pounds and track is 1600ft with terrible density air. Best 60ft was only 2.0 so far with et street radials.
I fully expect to see mid 12s with cam,headers and heads and cutout.See how it goes.
#303
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I have more new parts then i care to mention. I have no phantom knock its tuned out. Car runs fine it just isn't any faster. I have played with shift points timing afr its just not a performer for me. Car runs 13.2 at 107 with a 2.184 60ft, other engine it ran a 13.195 at 107 with a 2.101 60 ft. I know i have heavier forged pistons (speed pro)now vs the stock light hyperutectic ones so that could be eating some power up. Needless to say i dont care to do anymore to squeeze every last bit of the cam. This winter its getting some Advanced induction parts. As far as the ls1 thing i am very familiar with them one of my good friends has a 01 ws6 i do a lot of the work on. The ms3 cam pulls like my did on a 150 shot on the old engine. He made 407 rwhp cam only. I would love a ls1 car but i think im stuck with what i have. I dont think you caught the part when i was comparing my two engines. I said the old engine ran at 13.5 (knowing its lean) and still ran the same times as my new engine with the cc305 with a more favorable afr 12.5:1. Meaning with some tuning the other engine prob would have been faster.
Last edited by Jditlfm; 10-20-2008 at 10:23 AM.
#304
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i have the tuning program when it was tuned i don't think he did anything with the phantom knock. is it somthing that i can do without puting it on the dyno i have access to a tech 2.
#309
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In principle, you are correct. However, with inertial dyno's, the quicker the drivetrain gains speed, the more power it absorbs, leaving less to accelerate the dynojet drum. It's like putting the car in neutral and flooring it. The engine consumes 100% of it's own power in just overcoming its own internal inertia. So, with 4.11's in 1st gear, the rwhp number will be lower than 2.73's in 6th gear.
#312
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I can confirm the gearing on a dyno theory. vipers normally come with 3.08's stock. but alot of previous customers i dealt with would come in with 3.55's etc. We would convince them to go back to stock gearing and they would see a higher number on the dyno. plus with 3.08s top speed is increased