Started the header install day what a joy!!! Seriously though it has gone pretty smooth except for the drivers side flange that connects the old y pipe to the exhaust manifold was a little lippy so mr cutoff wheel dealt with him. The one remaining issue I have is all that is left to pull out is the drivers side exhaust manifold, one of the bolts will not budge at all. I'm worried about stripping it out, any ideas on getting it out?

 

Did you soak the bolt with Liquid Wrench / PB blaster? I'd spray it and let it set for at least a few hours. If you have a torch, it also helps to try heating the surrounding metal. If you spray the bolt after heating, it should help pull the penetrant into the threads. If you can reach it, it also helps just to tap on the bolt head with a hammer -- helps break loose any bonded rust.

I'd personally rather leave it soak for 24 hours, as opposed to spending 48 hours trying to extract a broken bolt from the cylinder head. Hope you get it out of there~

 

I've pretty much bathed in pb blaster today, every room in my house i went into today reeks of it as does my wifes car which I used to run to the store for some liquid lubriction for myself. She'll love the new car freshener. I figure I'll just let it soak tonight and get at it again tomorrow. Thanks

 

Well now I have the headers in but no matter what I do, the passenger refuses to line up right to bolt it in, plus the damn egr tube won't line up at all with the outlet on the pacesetters I have, what the hell do I do?

 

To get the EGR connected to my Pacesetters, I lowered the tranny and removed the bolt holding the tranny dipstick in place. That gave better access to the EGR connection. I also had the EGR tube disconnected from the back of the intake.

I did not have much trouble getting the header flange lined up to get the bolts in. Did you check the flange before putting it in for level and smooth? If the flange is level, start with the 2 end bolts in very loosely. Once those are lined up, the others should fit well.

 

I had a problem on the pass side as well. The weld on the primary was too large and I had the header bolt ran down too far before I got all of the other bolts in. Just make sure that you have all of the bolts in, but just barely hanging on, before you tighten any of them down.

 

I got the passenger side bolted up but the egr tube will not line up at all, what happens if I just leave it unhooked for now while I wait on my block off plates, would the car be drivable?

 

It would leak realy bad, try unbolting the header and take off the egr hoze from the back of the manifold, take them both out of the car and hook it up then try to install it, if you cant move it around enough to get it in that way, keep the header unbolted and have some one hold it in place move it around enough to get it in then once its hooked up try to get the header back in. You also could try to bend the tube a bit if you have a torch.

 

What do you mean by the EGR not lining up? The EGR line is flexible, so you should be able to manipulate it. Like I mentioned above, the tranny fill/dipstick tube was in my way for getting the EGR connected to the header. I got that tube unbolted and out of the way, and I connected the EGR line to the header before attaching the header to the head.

 

I got the tube to line up after unbolting the dipstick, now the dipstick doesn't lay in there right, but I think I can manipulate it into place.

 

Yeah, if I had know what percentage of the overall trouble putting in the LTs was gonna be due to the AIR and EGR connections, I would have gone with the race headers. Good luck.

 

You said it, the entire install was a breeze except for the egr stuff and the problems it caused, the tranny dipstick was such a pain I gave up trying to get it back in so I bought a Lokar flexible tube,problem solved

 

for the bolt, try using a solid parifin candle. what you do is light the candle as you normally would any other candle, heat the bolt with a torch for about 20 seconds, and tilt the candle so the wax lands on the mating surface of the bolt/flange. the heat will soak the wax and act as a lube. when the bolt is out, use the torch to evaporate the wax, or leave it and the head heat will do it for ya.

passenger side's a pain...the egr line is extended all the way and mine didnt "curve" around enough. i had to remove the manifold and take off the egr, put it on the header then put the manifold back on and go from under the car to put it back together right.