special cam for 383 stroker?
Also we got talking pretty in depth and he said with these engines a stroker is not really needed. He said alot of times people dont even notice much of a difference with a larger stroke and i could lose the reliability of my engine. My thought on the stroker would be to still keep my torque if i went with a bigger cam that might have more of its power in the mid range to upper rpms. I want a pretty fast car but i also want to pull the big hill i live on at 25 m.p.h. in 4th gear like i can now. Any input on this also would be very helpful thanks!!!
Well yesterday I went to talk to the machine shop trying to finally get my whole rebuild kick started, and i was going to pretty much supply most the parts because usually I can find them cheaper on the internet. He told me that for a stroker I am going to need a special type of camshaft. This is something i dont know anything about. I was just going to buy a regular cam that is meant for lt1's but he said a cam designed for the stock stroke wont work with a larger stroke. Something will hit or rub or something? I am confused.
Also we got talking pretty in depth and he said with these engines a stroker is not really needed. He said alot of times people dont even notice much of a difference with a larger stroke and i could lose the reliability of my engine. My thought on the stroker would be to still keep my torque if i went with a bigger cam that might have more of its power in the mid range to upper rpms. I want a pretty fast car but i also want to pull the big hill i live on at 25 m.p.h. in 4th gear like i can now. Any input on this also would be very helpful thanks!!!
i personally went with a forged 357 , for $$, reliability, and a broader powerband. for a stroker you would probably have to cut (notch) the block for the longer stroke.
talk to ellis, he is the lt1 god
He will help you with your parts selection. What happens is when you increase the stroke, their are two rods that may contact the camshaft depending how the cam is ground etc... Usually happens with larger aftermarket rods unless they are "stroker friendly" by design. I can't believe the machinist recomended a small base circle cam over just grinding the rods down for clearance.
I'd highly suggest looking for a different machinist at any rate,,,, IMO. Did he happen to recomend a good 3/4 race cam by chance?
What are you goals for the car? That will go a long way in determining what parts you will need to meet your expectations.
Mike
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Nate
Also we got talking pretty in depth and he said with these engines a stroker is not really needed. He said alot of times people dont even notice much of a difference with a larger stroke and i could lose the reliability of my engine. My thought on the stroker would be to still keep my torque if i went with a bigger cam that might have more of its power in the mid range to upper rpms. I want a pretty fast car but i also want to pull the big hill i live on at 25 m.p.h. in 4th gear like i can now. Any input on this also would be very helpful thanks!!!
and see. The HP does not increase by HUGE amounts, but the torque is through the roof. This is what makes a car feel fast on the street.......and I get down the track pretty well too. The only disadvantage is traction is hard to come by.
and see. The HP does not increase by HUGE amounts, but the torque is through the roof.copied from : http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...gmhtp_special/
On the issue of clearancing, Nick says, "Different clearancing is done depending on the reciprocating component combination. For example, an Eagle rod will fit in the block pretty well, but an Oliver rod is actually wider so we need to do more clearancing on the pan rails. We don't like to clearance any more than is absolutely necessary, because of stress concerns and also because there is a water jacket right behind there. If you dig through, it is difficult to repair, and I don't think there is any way to do it exactly right. We do it first for this reason. Or the other scenario is if you're doing hand work down here and slip and make glazes and some marks in the cylinder bore, you can still overbore the block to take out any mistakes."
Hope this helps a little, good luck...oh yeah go solid roller cam
Last edited by BRETTINATOR; May 5, 2005 at 10:47 AM.




