AKain

'94 Z28 (non t-top)

18k miles on 383 ci motor, Forged crank, and rods, kb 10.5:1's. 4l60e built by B&C transmissions, 3500 stall by Midwest convertors. Auburn center section, 3:73's. Comp cams 304 cam, and cc springs. Mac shorties and flowmaster muffler. Custom intake, 1le intake elbow, one off throttle body-dual 55mm,
ed wright ecu.

also, the car went 13.0 at 108 through the factory catback, stock intake and stock tires...It now has different exhaust and an intake, and has been tuned up. As of now I'm almost sure this is a mid 12-second car.

Car has COMPLETELY stock suspension. I figured SFC's and LCA's and a set of DR's and I should be extremely low 12's/high 11's. Car will be put on spray next year, and I hope for LOW 11's.

dsmawd350

iTrader: (2)

it should be going alot faster than that. im gonna guess a major part is that your running a dinky little cam. the cc304 is weaksauce on a 350 not to mention on a 383 stroker. with more displacement you can/need to run alot bigger cam than that. i wouldnt even put that small of a cam on a stock heads 350. go with atleast something the size of a cc306 or GM847. also open up the exhaust, a set of long tubes and 3" catless y=pipe and a good catback. Has it been dyno tuned?

Saad06

iTrader: (1)

who ever put that engine together is an idiot if he was trying to make it fast.

heres all you need to do to that setup. yank the tiny *** cam out, put in something bigger. put some longtube headers, and dump the flowmasters for something better. like a borla, or a GMMG. and if for some odd reason that doesnt get you there. drop a nice 150 shot of giggle gas on it. and put it on some DR's

METALBEAST

iTrader: (1)

Took the words right out of my mouth! Get rid of that horrible cam!

AKain

cc306 or a bigger GM cam?

AKain

What exhaust system should I go with? I was looking at selling the MAC short tubes and flowmasters and going with Pacesetter coated LT's and gmmg catback exhaust. I've been searching the forums, and this looks to be the best setup as far as $$/sound/and HP goes.

Jordan57

Well....imo pacesetters will offer a good bang for your buck. The gmmg is nice, but rather pricey>>>>>700+. So a hooker catback, or magnaflow would sound great and not break the bank. Or true duals would be awesome. OR.....leave the flowmaster there, it sounds good believe it or not, and throw a cutout on there after the LT's and ORY. Also, like everyone else said go bigger camwise. A GM847 can be had for 209 bucks. That and new valvesprings and you're golden. Next on the list is SFC's, LCA's, Springs/Shocks, Panhard Rod, Torque Arm, and DR's at a minimum to get you hooked up. With all that, and a 1.6ish 60' should put you at mid 11's solidly, maybe better depending on head work. With a 100-150 shot you should see 10's all day until the 10bolt goes KABOOM! One more thing, you will see a massive improvement in ET if you put the car on a diet>>>>rear seats!, AC!, AIR!, EGR!, Bumper Supports!, Sound Deadening!, and draglite/prostars.

shipwreck

while the car is on a diet, go ahead and go all the way, adios passenger seat, radio, spare tire and jack as well, seriously, how often do you need those things???? also staying away from mcdonalds would help, why should the car be the only one on a diet? back to which, and those pretty interior pieces, get rid of them, all that plastic and vinyl adds up. get rid of the driver seat as well, a milk carton plastic will work just as well and it gives to a classy look. looks, ah yes, you must get rid of all your paint, you'd be surprised that if you took all your paint off, you'd drop 3 seconds in your 1/4 mile time. speaking of useless things, yank out that steering wheel and use some vise grip pliers instead, they're just as reliable and weigh less. and after you take your old exhaust off, leave all off, that stuff is heavy, i know i dropped most of exhaust on the street while driving home from work one day and i had to carry it all home, if it wasnt for the 12 pack i dont think i would have made it. tires are also useless, it's just a bunch of bullcrap, wheels have nothing to do with going fast.

ok i havent had any sleep and got carried away. dont do any of the above mention things, but if you do, please take pics and remember to share.

Jordan57

Thanks you reminded me.....you could replace your steering wheel (grant or similiar) to get rid of the air bag, and also ditch the air bag out of the passenger side. From what I've read, they weigh 40+ lbs a piece.

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

Wow....You need some serious headwork. Stock heads on a 383 is a no-no as far as I am concerned. My vote is for one of Lloyd Elliots heads/cam packages and suspension work. That should get you in the 11's pretty easily with the other bolt ons.

Brett95z

iTrader: (-1)

I think you guys are going a little overboard on the weight reduction. I think he wants a quick street car. Not a gutted ***** to the wall race car.

AKain

shipwreck->thanks for the sacasm
The car needs to be considered a "street car." I need to keep @ least the passenger seat and radio and the I CANNOT cage the car in any way (scares people away, obviously).
BrettZ, you hit the nail on the head. I want a quick car that leaves HARD on the street.

My main concern right now with the car is a proper heads/cam/intake setup. Anyone voting? I need some opinions.

Vendetta

LE2 (www.eportworks.com)

Nuff said!

The current heads and cam are killing that setup. LE2+ported LT1 intake would be the cheapest and best performing way to go IMO. If you've got the cash to do it, ported AFR LT4 castings and a ported LT4 intake may get more out of the setup for you.

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

Now your getting somewhere. Slight suspension work and a set of ported heads will get you were you want to be for sure. Look into Lloyd Elliot, or AI...both offer some great packages that will let that 383 breathe better, and make the necessary power. Although weight reduction is your friend, just look for small ways to shed a few pounds here and there, it will def help. Once you get that power, start looking for suspension so you can hook the car. Sounds like the car you are going to be picking up is a great foundation to build on.

Brett95z

iTrader: (-1)

I say go LE3, you have a 383 to help offset the hugness of that cam.

Jordan57

All true. LE setups rock. As far as weight reduction...the only thing I mentioned that you will notice is the sound deadening material gone. A bit more resonance in cab. The rear seats are useless...so I tossed mine. But you can keep them if you're set. I'm just saying a light car is a faster car, and a lot easier to get hooked up.

Yeah I didn't see the stock heads in your sig. They are choking major HP. Wow...def need LE3. Should be a good swap unless you want something more serious...in which case ask me because I am pure race only :wink:

AKain

Would the LE2 ($1,650)+ported lt4 intake be sufficient?
I would rather go with the LE3 ($1,850) to get the gm847-or-so sized cam (plus I have the 3500stall tq and 373s)...could I also use a ported LT4 intake on that setup?

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

You would use a ported LT1 intake with the LT1 heads. It's basically preference on whether you do LE2-LE3. I would probably do LE3 on a 383 because you want as much flow as you can get with the extra cubes. When you talk to him about the cam, you can tell Bret or Lloyd exactly what you want with this car, and they will hook you up with the best cam for your combo.

Jordan57

Yeah the LT4 intake offers little to no improvement. Yes it has a little more material to port away, but your LT1 intake will work fine with ported stock heads. If you go with AFR's or LT4 GM castings, or AFR LT4 style castings get the LT4 intake. They will set you up cam wise and most likely it will probably be nastier than the gm847 because of your greater displacement.

AKain

Elliott's takes your heads as cores tho, correct?

ported lt1 intake/worked heads/LE3 cam...that should do it?