Help me figure this dyno sheet out please
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Help me figure this dyno sheet out please
I recieved a mail order tune from the states. After installing the tune the car ran 110% better except for the stench of fuel all the time in the car. I took it to the dyno last night and it made horrible numbers. Here are my mods:
~1994 Z/28 Camaro A4 convertible~ LT4 corvette motor swap, 190 AFR Heads, Ported LT4 intake, 4.10 gears, 3500 Stall Yank Converter, Edelbrock Exhaust, Hooker Long tubes, MSD Ignition, 160 thermostat, Fully built bottom end, Underdrive Pulleys, MSD Wires, Comp Cams 230/244 .510/.540, Transgo shift kit, Moroso cold air intake, 58mm bbk throttle body, 3 inch exhaust pipes, No cats, fan mod, egr delete, stock LT1 Knock sensor, The general elevation of Bahrain is low with low air density.
I made 275/265 with a a/f of 10. Everyone is telling me it's the tune. I was also told it's my ignition but the car drive fine, no indications whats so ever of ignition issues. I think it's running way to rich and I'm posotive the Knock sensor is pulling timing. Please help me figure this out. I need as many opinions as possible. Thanks
~1994 Z/28 Camaro A4 convertible~ LT4 corvette motor swap, 190 AFR Heads, Ported LT4 intake, 4.10 gears, 3500 Stall Yank Converter, Edelbrock Exhaust, Hooker Long tubes, MSD Ignition, 160 thermostat, Fully built bottom end, Underdrive Pulleys, MSD Wires, Comp Cams 230/244 .510/.540, Transgo shift kit, Moroso cold air intake, 58mm bbk throttle body, 3 inch exhaust pipes, No cats, fan mod, egr delete, stock LT1 Knock sensor, The general elevation of Bahrain is low with low air density.
I made 275/265 with a a/f of 10. Everyone is telling me it's the tune. I was also told it's my ignition but the car drive fine, no indications whats so ever of ignition issues. I think it's running way to rich and I'm posotive the Knock sensor is pulling timing. Please help me figure this out. I need as many opinions as possible. Thanks
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Originally Posted by slowmofo
yeah and pick up a lt4 knock sensor might help witht the timing alittle.
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Ok this is what I have gathered. The tune is rich but I was told there may be other things at play causing this other than the tune. For sure I need to check the ignition, cam (may be a tooth off) and tune out or replace the km with a lt4 km.
I wanted to do some data logging but nothing Ive tried will read my computer. I dont know if it's the cable or what. Seems like the cable is working but every program Ive tried nothing shows up on the screen. It acts as though it's not plugged in.
My questions are:
1: How do I go about testing my ignition to ensure it's fine and not the problem?
2: How do I determine if the cam is a tooth off or so?
3: How do I use the akm usb cable with data master?
I'm at my wits end with this. If it isnt one thing it's another.
I wanted to do some data logging but nothing Ive tried will read my computer. I dont know if it's the cable or what. Seems like the cable is working but every program Ive tried nothing shows up on the screen. It acts as though it's not plugged in.
My questions are:
1: How do I go about testing my ignition to ensure it's fine and not the problem?
2: How do I determine if the cam is a tooth off or so?
3: How do I use the akm usb cable with data master?
I'm at my wits end with this. If it isnt one thing it's another.
#7
sounds like you're running real rich and your knock module is causing the computer to pull timing. a good dyno tune and module should put down a lot more power. if your opti or wires were bad then it would run noticeably bad. i dont know much about the conditions you're running in out there but an LT4 motor with heads and a CC306 should make a LOT more power than that. even with the auto.
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Originally Posted by monster7
not to long ago i seen a dyno chart similer to that it was a screwed opti and cheap wires
but the a/f ratio is in the tune
thats pig rich and causing alot of power lose
but the a/f ratio is in the tune
thats pig rich and causing alot of power lose
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Originally Posted by screamin94Z
sounds like you're running real rich and your knock module is causing the computer to pull timing. a good dyno tune and module should put down a lot more power. if your opti or wires were bad then it would run noticeably bad. i dont know much about the conditions you're running in out there but an LT4 motor with heads and a CC306 should make a LOT more power than that. even with the auto.
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I used Freescan and TTS Datamaster and it's simply amazing what you can do with them.
I'm not exactly sure how to inturpret everything being shown on the logs but it was still intresting. Can someone here look at my logs and tell me what you think?
Also it threw 2 codes:
Code64- Right o2 sensor lean
code33- map sensor high
Also I saw some knock retard at idle and throghout the rpm band. If I was having ignition problems and if a cam tooth is off will it reflect in the logs? Also on the logs I noticed it always read "closed loop" WOT or ideal it always said closed loop. I wonder what that means?
I'm not exactly sure how to inturpret everything being shown on the logs but it was still intresting. Can someone here look at my logs and tell me what you think?
Also it threw 2 codes:
Code64- Right o2 sensor lean
code33- map sensor high
Also I saw some knock retard at idle and throghout the rpm band. If I was having ignition problems and if a cam tooth is off will it reflect in the logs? Also on the logs I noticed it always read "closed loop" WOT or ideal it always said closed loop. I wonder what that means?
Last edited by Honda Hunter; 09-16-2005 at 05:26 AM.
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Originally Posted by slowmofo
you are deff running rich, my cars untuned right now, runs great but smells like unburt fuel. Did you put the motor together? The cam gear lines up with the timing gear with a little notch in both gears with the 1st cyl at TDC.
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Originally Posted by slowmofo
not with out pulling the timing cover and looking at the marks on the cam gear and timing gear, That I know of. Mabey someone else here knows how