Vortech S Trim supercharger onto LT1?
11-10-2005, 12:20 PM
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Vortech S Trim supercharger onto LT1? I've got a guy that will sell me a Vortech S trim supercharger good to 15psi for 500 bucks, never used. It is the supercharger only, no bracketry or ducting, out of a kit for a 5.0 mustang. Is there any reason why I couldnt fab up the bracketry and ducting myself for this? Will this work on my car? Where do I pull the oil to run through it from? I have access to a machine shop, so the fabbing is not a problem. Do I need to do anything to keep the charger cool? I dont really know a whole lot about forced induction. Thanks, Nick.
11-11-2005, 10:47 AM
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You could have the brackets made, but you may try contacting Vortech first and checking on prices of the lt1 f-body bracket/pulley setup. If it's not to awefully expesense, it would me much easier to get the OEM brackets and pulleys.
The OEM blower inlet piping is pretty crappy though. Make your own.
OEM blower outlet piping is not as bad - make your own or by the Vortech (again, check their prices)
That s-trim produces some high AITs when spun close to the max recommended rpm, and you're likely to detonate without alky injection or intercooling, if you're spining that puppy very high. All depends on what pulley combo you go with and the rpm your going to turn the motor... (and your tuning)
I'm not sure the oil feed arrangement on the 94+ cars, but on the 93s setups the oil feed comes from right above the oil filter (I used a T where the oil pressure sending unit usually srews directly in). You tap the pan or weld in a fitting for the oil return.
One last thing. You should expect to spend much more than the price of that blower for the overall project. Do your research first on what you'll need to finish the project before commiting to buying the blower. I'd guess it would take another $1000-$1500 on top of the price of the blower to finish the project - could be more, depending on your choices...
The OEM blower inlet piping is pretty crappy though. Make your own.
OEM blower outlet piping is not as bad - make your own or by the Vortech (again, check their prices)
That s-trim produces some high AITs when spun close to the max recommended rpm, and you're likely to detonate without alky injection or intercooling, if you're spining that puppy very high. All depends on what pulley combo you go with and the rpm your going to turn the motor... (and your tuning)
I'm not sure the oil feed arrangement on the 94+ cars, but on the 93s setups the oil feed comes from right above the oil filter (I used a T where the oil pressure sending unit usually srews directly in). You tap the pan or weld in a fitting for the oil return.
One last thing. You should expect to spend much more than the price of that blower for the overall project. Do your research first on what you'll need to finish the project before commiting to buying the blower. I'd guess it would take another $1000-$1500 on top of the price of the blower to finish the project - could be more, depending on your choices...
11-15-2005, 09:45 AM
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What kind of power are you making with your setup? Also, will I be able to run my CC306 cam with a supercharger? I really dont want to do another cam again, but I will if I have to. I'm gonna look into the pricing of the bracketry, but I can pretty easily make it if I have to. The ducting I can very easily make. The plumbing for the oil shouldnt be too bad either. Im hoping to keep the remaining parts on top of the charger under $500. Thanks for all the info. I may PM ya down the road with a couple more questions. Thanks again. Nick
Originally Posted by pigpen
You could have the brackets made, but you may try contacting Vortech first and checking on prices of the lt1 f-body bracket/pulley setup. If it's not to awefully expesense, it would me much easier to get the OEM brackets and pulleys.
The OEM blower inlet piping is pretty crappy though. Make your own.
OEM blower outlet piping is not as bad - make your own or by the Vortech (again, check their prices)
That s-trim produces some high AITs when spun close to the max recommended rpm, and you're likely to detonate without alky injection or intercooling, if you're spining that puppy very high. All depends on what pulley combo you go with and the rpm your going to turn the motor... (and your tuning)
I'm not sure the oil feed arrangement on the 94+ cars, but on the 93s setups the oil feed comes from right above the oil filter (I used a T where the oil pressure sending unit usually srews directly in). You tap the pan or weld in a fitting for the oil return.
One last thing. You should expect to spend much more than the price of that blower for the overall project. Do your research first on what you'll need to finish the project before commiting to buying the blower. I'd guess it would take another $1000-$1500 on top of the price of the blower to finish the project - could be more, depending on your choices...
The OEM blower inlet piping is pretty crappy though. Make your own.
OEM blower outlet piping is not as bad - make your own or by the Vortech (again, check their prices)
That s-trim produces some high AITs when spun close to the max recommended rpm, and you're likely to detonate without alky injection or intercooling, if you're spining that puppy very high. All depends on what pulley combo you go with and the rpm your going to turn the motor... (and your tuning)
I'm not sure the oil feed arrangement on the 94+ cars, but on the 93s setups the oil feed comes from right above the oil filter (I used a T where the oil pressure sending unit usually srews directly in). You tap the pan or weld in a fitting for the oil return.
One last thing. You should expect to spend much more than the price of that blower for the overall project. Do your research first on what you'll need to finish the project before commiting to buying the blower. I'd guess it would take another $1000-$1500 on top of the price of the blower to finish the project - could be more, depending on your choices...
11-15-2005, 08:03 PM
#5
That's a great price for an unused S-trim head unit.
I agree that you should buy the Vortech brackets and stuff, I have used www.proficientperformance.com before and gotten good service. All the part numbers are available online at vortechsuperchargers.com.
I am using the V-2 SQ S-Trim on my similar generation 383 and am getting 8.5lbs. max boost after the FMIC and throttle blades at around 6400rpm. With the 75lb. injectors, I should be right around 740fwhp.
What are the specs on the CC306? Sounds like a pretty big cam for a centrifugal blower.
Cool project!
Jim
I agree that you should buy the Vortech brackets and stuff, I have used www.proficientperformance.com before and gotten good service. All the part numbers are available online at vortechsuperchargers.com.
I am using the V-2 SQ S-Trim on my similar generation 383 and am getting 8.5lbs. max boost after the FMIC and throttle blades at around 6400rpm. With the 75lb. injectors, I should be right around 740fwhp.
What are the specs on the CC306? Sounds like a pretty big cam for a centrifugal blower.
Cool project!
Jim
11-16-2005, 12:25 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by screamin94Z
the 306 is hardly a blower cam, 230/244 .510/.540 on a 112 deg LSA i believe. you'd probably be better off with a different cam, but it'll still make power.
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11-16-2005, 03:19 PM
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What do you mean by overlap? I'm putting down high 300's to the ground right now, say I run 8 pounds of boost, what will that put me at roughly for RWHP? I really do not feel like doing another cam, I'm on my third right now. I don't really care too much if the cam I have isn't optimal for a SC application, but is it going to be a waste of a supercharger to put it on my motor with this cam? Thanks for the help, like I said, I don't know a whole lot about forced induction.
11-22-2005, 08:36 PM
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Actually I'm not. The bracketry is 100% free, all of the ducting is 100% free. The tune will be at a discounted price. I have to buy 2 pullies, a belt, a MAP sensor, and pay a reduced price for the tune, not very expensive at all. Maybe 500 on top of the supercharger. Then new tires shortly after that!
11-23-2005, 01:34 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by 94strokedz
What do you mean by overlap? I'm putting down high 300's to the ground right now, say I run 8 pounds of boost, what will that put me at roughly for RWHP? I really do not feel like doing another cam, I'm on my third right now. I don't really care too much if the cam I have isn't optimal for a SC application, but is it going to be a waste of a supercharger to put it on my motor with this cam? Thanks for the help, like I said, I don't know a whole lot about forced induction.
Honestly though, if it was me I'd stay N/A for a while until you have the money to go all out. I regret going with an F/I car thanks to my dumb *** running out of money half way through.
11-28-2005, 07:13 PM
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Thanks for the info, I'll just do a cam swap at the same time, didn't want to, but oh well. Are there any cams out there that sound as mean as the CC306 but are good for F/I? I don't really want to lose the bas *** sound at idle.
11-29-2005, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 94strokedz
Thanks for the info, I'll just do a cam swap at the same time, didn't want to, but oh well. Are there any cams out there that sound as mean as the CC306 but are good for F/I? I don't really want to lose the bas *** sound at idle.
I had my cam custom ground by More Performance, who uses a computer model to calculate the best profile. This profile is based on your motor, car, and how you want to use it. A cam for my F.I 355 M6 car ended up looking like this:
-Comp Cams Xtreme lobes stick with 224/236 dur 502/ 520 lift (1.5 r) 536/ 560 (w 1.6 r) 115 LSA +3 deg adv. gound in
It may not look very radical, but I promise it will out perform a CC305/306 on the same car. It was designed to operate between 2000-6000 RPMs, make great power and meet emmissions. Best of all, it was only $300 delivered to my door.
Last edited by SiCk PuPpY; 11-29-2005 at 06:50 AM.
